
February 13, 2017

Bunches of Bunnahabhain – part one

If alliterations kill, as they say, it is a slow death ;-). Anyway, there’s even more Bunnahabhain around these days, although the older ones (I mean, really old) are getting a little harder to find. This is why we’ll mainly have youngish ones today, in no particular order…

Bunnahabhain 8 yo ‘Fruit by the Sea’ (48%, Langside, Distillers Art, 374 bottles, +/-2016)

A pale young one at a good strength, what could go wrong? Colour: white wine. Nose: I believe there are two kinds of very young whiskies, the ones that remain too spirity and the ones that are more on fresh fruits and barley, perhaps with a porridgy side. It’s clearly the latter here, in fact it is extremely barleyish, with a faint coastal freshness as well as hints of artisan muesli and vanilla. Simple, straight, fresh, clean. And nice. Mouth: we’re very close to the distillate, the only oak one may feel translates into a little white pepper. Overripe apples, more muesli, more porridge, a spoonful of pear juice, and a touch of salt – unless I’m dreaming of the place too much. Finish: rather long, with a welcome grassiness, and notes of eaux-de-vie, like often in very young whiskies au naturel. Lemon and salt in the aftertaste. Comments: young whisky au naturel indeed. It’s hard to do much better without peat. SGP:541 - 82 points.

Bunnahabhain 8 yo (43%, Gordon & MacPhail, The MacPhail's Collection, +/-2015)

Is this peated or not? Let’s see… Colour: pale straw. Nose: it is peated, very ashy, you’re almost nosing the ashtray of the old Volkswagen Kombi that used to belong to Bob Marley and the Wailers. Behind that, rather salted fish, seaweed, and a touch of lemonade. I find it a little cleaner and purer than earlier batches. Mouth: very ashy again, this is almost like crunching a fistful of malt that was just kilned. We’ve all done that at distilleries, haven’t we? I think it’s the first time I’m coming across a whisky that’s this kilny. Spectacular, in that sense, but perhaps a notch unbalanced. Finish: medium, always very, very ashy. Comments: do not sip this while on a plane or a train, the crew would think you’re smoking an untipped Gauloise or Gitanes. My advice – you’re welcome. SGP:347 - 80 points.

Bunnahabhain 6 yo 2007/2014 (57.7%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #800089)

If the very distinguished people at BBR have decided to bottle a Bunny at this very young age, that should mean that it’s got something special, let’s see… Colour: white wine, almost white. Nose: ultra-clean smoked lemon juice plus a little tincture of iodine and seawater. That’s all, folks. With water: even smokier, this time with rather some camphor and a little incense. Mouth (neat): now I understand. It’s salted smoky malt with hints of white mezcal and Jamaican rum. The Wailers again! With water: simple, but perfect. A clairin of whisky, I would say. Smoke, salt, lemon, brine, and basta. Finish: long, extremely ashy, almost as much as the G&M. Comments: forgot to mention cigarette ashes. Really! SGP:456 - 85 points.

Bunnahabhain 17 yo 1997/2015 (57.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 258 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: this one’s peated as well, but it’s somewhat peated ala Ardbeg, with rather a mineral and slightly tarry side. In other words, a fatter peat smoke this time. With water: whiffs of menthol and raw wool. Wouldn’t that be Woolite? Mouth (neat): oh excellent! It’s got a little more complexity than the youngsters – the benefits of older age, as Methuselah once said – and certainly a lot of lemon, seawater, and this kippery feeling. Both sharp and fat(tish), is that possible? With water: it’s the lemon that wins, which makes it almost summery. Extremely zesty, and rather less ‘Ardbeg’ when reduced to +/-45% vol. Finish: pretty long, and zestier than lemon juice. Still a little menthol in the aftertaste. And tangerines, and passion fruits. Comments: I find this absolutely excellent. The age is right. SGP:656 - 88 points.

There will be more tomorrow...

Check the index of all Bunnahabhain I've tasted so far