Bruichladdich Two Official Extremes


May 6, 2017

	Angus's Corner From our casual Scottish correspondent and guest taster Angus MacRaild
	Bruichladdich: Two Official Extremes
	Bruichladdich seem to be focusing more and more on 'terroir' these days. Irrespective of how debatable the topic of terroir and how loud its voice in modern whisky can, I find the approach refreshing and more 'authentic'. Lets try the most recent Bere Barley edition alongside something that should be quite its opposite...

Bruichladdich 2009/2016 ‘Bere Barley’ (50%, OB, 4th Edition, first fill bourbon)

Bere is an ancient indigenous Scottish variety of barley which often yields significantly less alcohol and can be a 'bitch' to mash. I have loved the Arrans and Bruichladdichs made with Bere so far so expectations are high here. Colour: White wine. Nose: Extremely fresh. Full of grass, sea greens, moss, ferns, graphite and a lovely yeasty note; an autolytic character not unlike a good Brut Champagne or fresh sourdough. Lots of citrons, some wax and hints of pine cone. Wonderfully fresh and invigorating nose. With water: a little caraway and more ripe citrus fruit notes - leaning towards lemon oil. More nice grassy olive oil notes. Mouth: There is still a touch of new make about it but the distillate is pure and very good. More citrus rind, seashore, flinty mineral notes and cereal notes such as oatmeal. With water: becomes a little more floral and opulently fruity with notes of green and garden fruits. Still nicely coastal and gently waxy in texture. Finish: Good length. Robust and sharp with more gravelly mineral and fresh bread notes. Perhaps some sunflower seeds. Comments: I think when this distillate starts to hit 12 -15 it will be totally outstanding. I really hope they filled some refill barrels and hoggies with this juice! Probably some of the best 'young' whisky on the market. SGP: 574 - 88 points.

Bruichladdich 25 yo 1990/2016 ‘Sherry Cask Edition’ (48.1%, OB for Travel Retail. 6000 bottles) At first glance a slightly scary bottling composed of refill wood matured Bruichladdich re-racked into wine casks for five years and PX for four years married with another batch matured in refill sherry for 17 years and re-racked into Oloroso for 7 years. Got it? Excellent... Colour: Deep amber. Nose: Actually this is really quite pleasant. A lovely, leafy, earthy, nutty sherry profile. The wine influence is thankfully pretty quiet, I suspect a proper double maturation has allowed for some proper integration. Goes on with notes of wild strawberries, various fruit compotes, fig rolls and a little touch of hessian and dunnage. Mouth: Good delivery with plenty dark chocolate, nicely nervous and slightly dry sherry with notes of espresso, cocoa and black tea. Perhaps the overall is a little thin in texture and there is a slightly cloying note that smacks of wine casks in the background. But the overall feeling is very pleasurable. Finish: Medium length with more jammy and strawberry notes mingling with that nice, ever present earthiness. Comments: It's very good if you are looking for a clean, earthy, well-sherried dram. It's also nice to see a Travel Retail bottling that isn't some boring NAS thing. Now, it is relatively expensive and the Bere just edges it for me. SGP: 623 - 87 points.