
January 3, 2017

Ardbeg 1993-1966

It’s become quite fashionable to despise Ardbeg in some circles, but it’s true that people always feel the need to knock down icons. I won’t play that game, Ardbeg remains one of my favourite distilleries, even if it’s lost some of its gloss since they’ve ran out of whiskies distilled in the glorious 1970s. The Ten remains excellent in my opinion. Anyway, Cadenhead just had yet another Ardbeg this year, and as usual, it was sold out even before the barley was harvested. More or less. Let’s try it, for the record.

Ardbeg 23 yo 1993/2016 (47.7%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 210 bottles)

A 22 yo 1993 has been fantastic earlier this year (WF 91). Colour: white wine. Nose: this kind of citric coastal smoke, with some metal polish, custard, and whiffs of wet fabric/hessian. It’s a little shy for Ardbeg, perhaps. Candle smoke. Mouth: good not great, I’d say. A little vague, musty, with notes of smoked salmon, Sprite from last night, apple juice, and burnt papers. So good but probably not very Ardbeg. Perhaps did someone forget to put the bung back in, a few years ago? Finish: only medium, and a wee bit flabby. A little frustrating. The aftertaste is a little better, with some kind of smoked limes and kiwis. Comments: feels a little stale, really. I think the finish was the best part, not only because it was the finish. Now it’s still good Ardbeg, but rather Blasda-style Ardbeg in my opinion. Remember Blasda? SGP:445 - 80 points.

Right, we may need some secret potion. Rummage rummage… Like this? What it’s not fair?

Ardbeg 1966/1992 (50.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #33.13)

I’ll always remember a 1966 from Cadenhead’s, bottled 1999. What a star! (WF 94) Colour: gold. Nose: it’s much, much straighter than the 1993, much better focused, and wonderfully medicinal and, well, straight. Camphor, smoke, pink grapefruits. Little OBE this time, you could think this was bottled yesterday. Wee whiffs of old style perfume, old mink coat, these whiffs of fern that we like so much, and then plasticine, broken branches, and carbon paper. Typically Ardbeg. With water: ashes everywhere, plus some distant beach bonfire. Burning kelp. A few whelks, perhaps. Mouth (neat): a very simple arrival, but it’s the kind of simplicity that’s just thrilling. Plasticine-y balm, lemon, smoked fish, and basta. Elementary yet superb. With water: pure Ardbegness, actually hard to describe. A mixture involving plasticine and crushed kippers and charcoal with drops of lemon juice, perhaps? Finish: medium to long, saltier, juicier. Smoked pink grapefruit juice, kippers, almond oil. Zestier aftertaste. Comments: I’ve always thought the 1970s have been better than the 1960s at Ardbeg, and I persist. But this 1966 was totally excellent for sure, just not flabbergasting. IMHO, as we used to say before Facebook. SGP:555 - 91 points.

(Danke schoen Angus!)

Check the index of all Ardbeg I've tasted so far