A round of Aultmore


September 14, 2017

A round of Aultmore

Aultmore seems to be pretty successful since Dewar’s have revived the brand. I shan’t complain, I like Aultmore rather very much. Let’s have a few of various ages, IBs and OBs…

Aultmore 6 yo 2010/2016 (46%, Càrn Mòr, Strictly Limited, sherry hogshead, 875 bottles)

This one from two casks. We’re seeing more and more of those super-young malts. I don’t think they’re always good, but isn’t it interesting to taste some whisky in its most naked form? Colour: white wine. Nose: porridge, damp chalk, grist, green apples, touches of lime and fresh mint. Indeed, in its most naked form. Mouth: fresh, grassy, unfolding on lime and cider apples, with a little barley sugar and rather more green peppercorns. Gets then a tad rounder, I suppose that’s the (very minimal) sherry, with two or three sultanas. Finish: medium, rather zesty and green. More lime, more green apples, more green pepper. Hints of kiwis in the aftertaste. Comments: there were other super-young Aultmores, but those were oak-doped. This one’s ueber-clean – so, naturally, perhaps a little too young. SGP:361 - 80 points.

Aultmore 10 yo 2006/2016 (46%, The Cooper’s Choice, bourbon, cask #307128, 370 bottles)

Colour: white wine – even paler. Nose: feels even younger than the 6 yo, this is almost kirsch straight from the Holstein, or what we sometimes call barley eau-de-vie. Some chalk again, fresh husk, rhubarb juice, porridge… It really is a fine eau-de-vie, it’s just not fantastically mature, in my humble opinion. Mouth: rounder, with more vanilla this time, a little lemon liqueur, some green spices, orange peel, and this famous feeling of limoncello. Lovely minerality – and even salinity – on the tip of your tongue. Finish: medium, fresh, in the way of some Sauvignon Blanc from eastern Loire valley. Lemon, touches of dill, limestone. Comments: I didn’t care too much for the slightly absent nose, but I thought the palate was almost perfect given the age. SGP:561 - 84 points.

Some older ones please…

Aultmore-Glenlivet 26 yo 1989/2016 (47.6%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 120 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: isn’t it funny that we’d be on the same notes again, only with more vanilla, coconut, and pineapples? Really fresh, very easy as it appears, and somewhat pina-colada-ish. Mind you, in a great way. Stewed rhubarbs in the background, or greengage compote… Mouth: super-easy, super-good at first sips (always on pina colada), but it tends to become much grassier, a bit biting perhaps, with some green tannins, more green apples, green pears, and the obligatory green gooseberries. Keyword: green. Finish: medium, feeling young, with a wee touch of leather in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s as if this baby’s been a little lazy during the 16 extra-years. But it’s very good, of course (but of course). SGP:561 - 85 points.

So, that OB that we also had…

Aultmore 33 yo 1983/2016 (53.3%, OB, for China Whisky Society, Exceptional Cask Series, 678 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: we’re well in the same family, even if this one’s more complex, rounder, and more on ripe fruits rather than green ones. I’m finding cut flowers, pot-pourri, then mirabelles and quinces, as well as something a little unusual… say blancmange pudding? Mullein syrup for sure, that’s good for our coughs. With water: white peaches and pears. Very nice freshness. Mouth (neat): rather firm, and a tad pungent and sharp, with notes of green lemon and raw ginger. A lot of grass, green pepper, a funny salty touch, and quite some lemongrass. I had thought it would be much rounder, while it rather punches you. With water: gets excellent. Never forget to try your whiskies with a little water, especially when they’re above 50%. All-vitamin fruit juice, pink bananas, lemons… Some rhubarb again in the aftertaste. Finish: medium, really fresh, fruity, feeling rather 15 than 33, but that’s no problem, at all. Comments: probably from a rather lazy cask, but again and again, that’s not a problem at all. Bordering perfection. SGP:661 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Aultmore I've tasted so far