
April 3, 2017

A bag of young and middle-aged Dalmore

Beyond the hyperboles and the loud marketing, Dalmore remains a superb distillate in my book, especially when bottled quite ‘pure’, that is to say rather void of any blackish/darkish substances, from oloroso to cabernet through caramel. Let’s see if we find some of those today…

Dalmore 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2017)

A 2015 version had been rather to my liking (WF 81). Colour: gold. Nose: starts malty and bready, which is obviously nice, and gets then rather spicy and cake-y, with some cloves, aniseed, and gingerbread. I have to say this does not quite smell like the 12 used to in my book, I seem to feel much more newish, spicier oak. I do enjoy the way it gets then fruitier and fresher, though, with kiwis and the usual oranges. Mouth: indeed, more spicy oak over some orange cake and marmalade. Quite a lot of bitter chocolate too, Ovaltine/Ovomaltine, and toasted bread. Finish: medium, really dry. Walnuts. Comments: really a dry Dalmore, but the usual oranges are never too far away. Same score as last time. SGP:451 - 81 points.

Dalmore 10 yo 2006/2016 (46%, OB, fro France)

Dalmore 10 yo 2006/2016 (46%, OB, for France)

Rather bizarrely, this baby was finished in first fill Jim Beam barrels. Isn’t that rather ‘regular’ and not quite a finishing? Ha, whisky semantics… Colour: straw. Nose: yess, pure Dalmore with an extra-layer of vanilla and limoncello. You’re wandering throughout an orchard in Corsica, with various mandarins, tangerines, oranges and citrons around you. Some quinces too, and some dandelions on the floor. A glorious smell, this! Mouth: oh this is good! Perfect round citrusy style, with only the slightest oaky spicy tannicity (ginger), and otherwise wheelbarrows of those aforementioned citrus fruits. The higher strength helps too. Finish: rather long, and rather on lemon marmalade. With wee bits of dried ginger… Comments: not some very complicated spirit, but it tells you how great Dalmore can be when you leave it alone. SGP:551 - 86 points.

Dalmore 18 yo (43%, OB, +/-2016)

This baby was virtually double-matured, as it spent five years in sherry. It’s been eight years since I last tried this expression (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s more complex, rather more floral, and certainly more tertiary, with whiffs of old humidor, prunes in armagnac, peonies, walnut wine, brandy de Jerez, and then a slightly heavy/spicy breadiness, reminding us of pumpernickel. Some moist all-honey gingerbread too. Mouth: very oily mouth feel, as if glycerol had been added (of course there cannot be any!) and a totally ‘gingerbready’ development. White pepper, chestnut honey, marmalade, Corinth raisins, spelt, perhaps buckwheat, walnuts… It really tends to become dry, with quite a lot of raw cocoa powder. I always quote Van Houten, but there must be other brands. Finish: rather long, with a very spicy sherry. If you will, this is the opposite of sherried Macallan. Comments: very good, but I sure liked the style of the 2006 better. Vive le naturel! SGP:451 - 83 points.

Dear indies, the floor is yours…

Dalmore 2001/2015 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, refill hogshead)

Refill hoggies? That should be very natural. Colour: white wine (indeed). Nose: pure classy maltiness with notes of white cherries, peaches, and orange skins, then rather overripe kiwis and custard. Pastry dough, plus the lightest honey. Mouth: very very good. Crisp fruity maltiness, oranges, orange cake, and wee bits of liquorice wood. Finish: medium, malty/fruity, always with these Dalmore-y oranges singing in the background. Peppery and leafier aftertaste. Comments: not an impressive whisky, and certainly not a ooh-ha Dalmore, but I’m feeling it’s very honest, rather a lost quality these days, Your Highness. SGP:551 - 84 points.

Dalmore 25 yo 1990/2016 (56.3%, Cadenhead, Single Cask, sherry butt)

Probably a refill butt, according to the colour. Colour: pale gold. Nose: warm custard and oak at first, then rather croissants and orange blossom water, with a panettone-y side (with apologies to our friends in Northern Italy). Bags of marzipan too. So far, it’s perfect. With water: ever smelled raw cocoa when it arrives to the chocolate factory? Also a very discreet touch of copper, or perhaps tin. And of course, oranges, which is totally Dalmore in my book. Mouth (neat): ooh! Lime and pepper, then Seville oranges and walnut wine, with touches of old amontillado and a wee vinegary side that’s totally perfect in this context. Perhaps white balsamico? (with further apologies to our friends in Northern Italy). With water: even if it weren’t good, it would be interesting (that was useful, S.!) Finish: long, peculiar, citrusy and candied. My grandma was having a tin box where she used to keep various candied citrus fruits, zests and such, for her pastries. Totally that! Comments: they did it again, I’m very afraid. Pure Essence de Dalmore, with echoes of those older official dumpies with their funny silver or golden labels. SGP:661 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Dalmore I've tasted so far

	March 2017
	Favourite recent bottling: Port Ellen 32 yo 1983/2016 (54%, The Auld Alliance, Singapore, cask #001/508, 120 bottles) - WF 92 Favourite older bottling: Ardbeg 24 yo 1965/1990 (54.4%, Cadenhead, black dumpy, 75cl) - WF 95 Favourite bang for your buck bottling: Glen Garioch 12 yo (48%, OB, +/-2016) - WF 86 Favourite malternative: Hampden Estate 17 yo 2000/2017 (47.4%, Sansibar) - WF 91