Young Armagnac with some knack


December 18, 2016

Xmas

The Pre-Christmas malternatives
Young Armagnac with some knack

No, not too proud of that headline either. Now remember, the grapes that are used to make the wine that’ll become Armagnac once distilled must come from the Armagnac region, whilst the grains in any whisky may come from planet Mars. Quite. But first, a petit apéritif…

Château Garreau Blanche d’Armagnac (40%, OB, blanche, +/-2015)

Some Armagnac that’s been aged for a short period of time in inert containers and that is becoming more popular amongst the youngsters these days. 100% baco. In a way, it’s white fine. It’s used in cocktails, and then the owners also claim that it goes well with caviar. Probably better than Smirnoff indeed… Colour: white. Nose: smells of plums eau-de-vie rather than anything else if you ask me, with perhaps a little mint and grape stalks. Not totally unpleasant but just like vodka, it seems to really need ice. Or yeah, your fridge. You’re right, your freezer. Mouth: a little better, between sake and plum eau-de-vie again, with touches of lime and yuzu. Some fermentary notes and a grassiness that’s typical of unaged almost un-rectified spirits. Finish: short, a little ‘burnt’. Comments: certainly very all right, but I wouldn’t sip this at room temperature. SGP:440 - 60 points.

Darroze 8 yo ‘Les Grands Assemblages’ (43%, OB, Bas-armagnac, +/-2015)

I believe this is the youngest within Darroze’s popular series of blends. I thought the 12 was very good (WF 82). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s fresh, as expected, and rather on ripe pears at first nosing. Then come melon skins, quinces, and a pleasant earthy spiciness, around caraway, perhaps. Mouth: very good. It’s got a little roughness, which is a asset here, certainly quite some liquorice, some mint, then the expected raisins and just wee touches of lavender sweets. Keeps going on with rather oranges (zests and marmalade). I don’t seem to find anything bad to say here. Finish: medium yet full, clean, and very Armagnacqy. Perhaps more prunes now, that are usually to be found in older Armagnacs. The liquorice is back in the aftertaste. Comments: very high quality young Armagnac from a well-reputed house. SGP:551 - 84 points.

Château de Bordeneuve *** (41%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2016)

Some very young single estate Armagnac, around 3 years of age. It’s 80% ugni blanc and 20% baco. With Armagnac or Cognac, the three-star items are exactly the opposite of those in the Michelin guide, they are the cheapest ;-). Colour: gold. Nose: well it’s still got the roughness of youth, and while it’s more mature than the blanche, I’m not sure it’s perfect as a sipper. Whiffs of lees, apple peelings… Mouth: good but a little unpolished indeed. A gritty grapiness, some green pears, and touches of sugar – yet I’m sure they haven’t added any sugar. Peaches, perhaps. Finish: medium, with more green liquorice. The usual raisins in the aftertaste. Comments: a little too young for me, but otherwise, the spirit is very fine for sure. Ten times better than most three-star Armagnacs found in French supermarkets. SGP:341 - 75 points.

Château de Bordeneuve ‘VSOP’ (41%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2016)

This one’s around five years old. Colour: gold. Nose: quite in the style of the Darroze 8, that is to say fresh and fruity, yet already quite deep and relatively complex. Pears, liquorice, raisins, and oranges, plus a handful of small dried figs. Mouth: indeed, this is surprisingly good. In fact the palate is all in keeping with the nose, with green pears covered with raisin juice (I’m thinking of white muscat), plus a liquorice-orange duo that sings extremely well. I find the whole flawless, and even the low strength really works, without any of the blips that may be found in low-strength malt whiskies. Finish: medium, but quite wonderfully fresh and fruity. Perfect raisins and liquorice again in the aftertaste. Comments: we’re close to the Darroze 8 in my book. SGP:541 - 83 points.

Domaine de Charron 2004 (51%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2016)

This is 100% baco from a small domaine that I like pretty much. Colour: amber. Nose: perfect coffee, rum, and toasted oak. It’s rather ‘modern’ Armagnac, and it’s even got notes of young bourbon, but I find the balance just perfect, especially since the distillate’s much richer and more expressive than any ex-column grain spirit. Butterscotch, dry black liquorice, touches of earth… Perfect. With water: a few pencil shavings, but also some moss and mushrooms. Lovely. Mouth (neat): once again we’re wandering in whisky/rum territories, with some toasted bread, some coffee and chocolate, and some warm vanilla sauce; and once again the spirit behind is perfect, with raisins, raspberries… With water: the fruits are coming to the front. Blood oranges and blackberries. Finish: rather long, balanced, without too much cinnamon (given the oakiness). Comments: the exact definition of what I would call ‘a perfect malternatives’. SGP:551 - 87 points.

Perhaps a last one?... Let’s make it another 2004…

Domaine Lous Pibous 2004/2016 (56.5%, L'Encantada, Bas-Armagnac)

L’Encantada are independent bottlers in Armagnac, meaning that they seek and find hidden casks from small domaines, sometimes in estates that have stopped ‘burning’ quite a long time ago. And that story is genuine, it’s not pure codswallop as can be seen elsewhere. Colour: amber. Nose: bang! It’s a kind of Highland Armagnac, if you see what I mean. Powerful and relatively fat and ‘congeneric’, with superb notes of ripe fruits, jams, and liqueurs, as well as many flowers, such as honeysuckle, elderberry flowers, and lime. Right up my alley. With water: yes, chalk and earth! And drops of beef soup! Mouth (neat): perhaps a tad brutal at first, but it unfolds on a rather superb combination of old Calvados with cigars, cedar wood, and liquorice. Plainly and totally malternative, although one might rather think that malt whisky is an Armagnalternative (I know, OMG), which it actually was one hundred years ago. With water: very supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. Yes I’m well read. Right, that’s from one of Benny Hill’s old shows. Finish: long, rather grapier, and appropriately rough. After all, it’s Armagnac. Comments: one of the very best young Armagnacs out there, if you ask me. SGP:651 - 88 points.

If I'm not mistaken, next Sunday is Christmas, we’ll try to find old Cognacs! I mean, very old Cognacs…

Check the index of all Armagnacs I've tasted so far