
June 19, 2016

White rums at low strengths

Hell and putrefaction, summer’s not here yet at time of writing! And yet, we’re around mid-June. Only one solution then, which is called white rum! Because some naked rums are aromatic enough to stand on their feet without the addition of any oak. I said ‘some’ ;-). Let’s check that…

Tricorne (43%, Compagnie des Indes, blended rum, 2016)

It's no secret that I’m a fan of what these good people have started doing two or three years ago. Spirit-led spirits, that’s smart! In this case, they’ve blended vesou-based rum (possibly agricole), molasses rum, and Batavia arrack, which is some kind of cane juice-based rum from Indonesia. No they don’t distil lettuce. Colour: white. Nose: raw and cane-y, rustic, grassy, fermentary, a little phenolic and mineral, with touches of pickled capers and oranges staring to rot. Pleasantly unpolished, I’d say. Mouth: rather fruitier and sweeter, easier than expected, with more fermenting fruits, chiefly pineapples and bananas, then perhaps these oranges again. Good briny, olive-y background, very natural. Finish: medium, balanced, cane-y. Lovely salty aftertaste, with some grapefruit as well. Comments: just very good, very loyal white rum with true character. Probably great in cocktails. SGP:452 - 82 points.

Issan (40%, OB, Thailand, agricole, +/-2015)

Pure agricole rhum, not unlike Chalong Bay, from a new Thai distillery. Nothing to do, as far as I know, with Château d’Issan in Bordeaux. Colour: white. Nose: nice! Quite warm and earthy, with excellent vegetables and grasses (Brussels sprout? Artichoke?) then quite some pitch, coal tar, and perhaps a little burnt wood. Mouth: very interesting indeed, and quite ‘terroiting’ as some would say. Gherkins and samphires, some sweets, some kind of grassy smokiness, lemon, ‘ideas’ of oysters, perhaps… A nice earthiness as well. Finish: medium, smoky/salty, with a rather tarry aftertaste. Comments: we would have preferred a higher strength, but it seems that the Thai law just forbids anything above 40% vol. You couldn’t make A’bunadh in Thailand! Anyway, this Issan’s already very good, I think. Good and profound character. SGP:442 - 82 points.

Diplomatico ‘Blanco Reserve’ (40%, OB, Venezuela, +/-2015)

This one’s aged for a few years – probably not many – and then filtered so that any colour goes away. In theory, it could be very pale yellow, let’s check that… Colour: no, it’s totally white. Nose: much less aromatic, very shy in fact, a little ethanoly, well in the style of the high-column white Cubans. Perhaps touches of vanilla, grated coconut, and cut grass. Seemingly pretty harmless… Mouth: a little lemon, a little liquorice, and a feeling of raw eau-de-vie. Some coconut again, and some raw medicinal alcohol. What’s quite nice is that they don’t seem to have added tons of sugar to it. Finish: short and shy. A touch of fudge and some saccharin this time. Comments: not one to sip, and the others would make for better mojitos. What to do with this humble white rum? SGP:320 - 40 points.

Flor de Caña 4 yo ‘Extra Dry’ (40%, OB, Nicaragua, +/-2015)

Another one that’s aged and then filtered. Hope we’ll find better luck… Colour: white. Nose: I’m not finding it very ‘seco’, and that’s an understatement. Sugar syrup and tinned pineapples, bubblegums, marshmallows, bonbons, a drop of lemonade (what did you expect?) and a little cut grass. Rather less ethanoly than the Diplomatico, but still not quite my style, so far. Mouth: a little coconut for a start, some cut grass again, and a rather undefined development. Fruit peelings, perhaps, and perhaps a little grapefruit. Finish: shortish, light, sweetish. Comments: more cocktail fodder, I’d say. Nothing wrong with that, I suppose. Other than that, I find it pretty bland – and yes, I know some rum freaks just love it. SGP:430 - 50 points.

It seems that immediate measures have to be taken. And why not go from one extreme to the other, just for… fun?

Worthy Park 'Rum Bar' (65%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2016)

It’s got to be done! Colour: white. Nose: sweet Jesus! Pure sugar cane and fermenting hay, chalk, diesel oil, antiseptic, Brussels sprouts once again, lime, engine oil… With water: a perfect earthy cane-iness, plus whiffs of new leatherette, brand new sneakers, carbon paper, sorrel soup, lime... I cannot see what’s not to like a lot. Mouth (neat): the sweetness is a little surprising, but that might be the high strength. Other than that, we have a wonderful tarry, salty, olive-y profile. Drinking a blend of turpentine, olive oil, and limejuice, perhaps. I imagine. Ha-ha. With water: no, it’s quite sweet indeed, but what’s in the back holds it tight. Tarred lemons, do some good people produce that? Finish: long, perfect. Brine, lemons, tar, olives… Comments: now we know why Usain Bolt is so fast. Reminds me of Rum Nation’s wonderful version from two years ago. SGP:473 - 88 points.

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far