
June 15, 2016

Various American whiskies

Or whiskeys, as you like, as both words do work. Seen from Europe, the whole scene has been shaken by all those stories about ‘fake craft’, hidden sourced whiskies (however good), and made-up family heritages. Grandpa’s recipes found in an old drawer and all that, you know… But on the other hand, we could also taste quite a bunch of excellent fairly new truly craft Americans, so let’s not throw the baby out with the bathwater. Oh and we won’t check online if each of these Americans are ‘authentic’ or not, that would be too boring.

Early Times ‘Old Reserve’ (40%, OB, Kentucky bourbon, +/-2016)

This baby by Brown Forman is very cheap in France, around 16 or 17€. But then again, we only get 70cl ;-). Colour: gold. Nose: reeks of sweet oak and vanilla, with a sweetness from maize. It reminds me of these bottles of Canadian Club that my dad used to bring back when he was travelling, fifty years ago. Extremely smooth and light. Mouth: a bit raw, extremely sweet, with more vanilla and perhaps sweet cider. A feeling of sawdust in the aftertaste. Ripe gooseberries, hay wine. Finish: short, sweet and sweetly oaky. Corn syrup and molasses. A touch of cinnamon cake. Comments: no whisky is easier than this. No depth, no asperities – and consequently, no real flaws. Mundane. SGP:430 - 70 points.

Jim Beam ‘Kentucky Dram’ (40%, OB, blended world whisky, +/-2016)

This is an unlikely blend of Kentucky straight bourbon with Ardmore, so peated Scotch malt. Let’s see if we can guess the proportions… Ah, innovation in whisky! Colour: gold. Nose: it’s bourbon-led, but I have to say I quite like this nose, I find it fresh and although quite simple, this touch of light smoke does work. Besides, I’ve always thought there were some interesting experiments to be done blending various spirits from the world. Mouth: a little less convincing now, the oak’s a little too loud for me, with this syrupy, corn-y (not corny) side and all this sawdust that coats the light peat. I’d have added a little more Ardmore (or Laphroaig? Bowmore?) and since this is no bourbon anyway, I’d have used more refill wood to lower the slightly sleazy sweetness. Finish: medium, rather disjointed in my opinion, as if both spirits were trying to… divorce? Comments: not uninteresting at all, I’d say. I quite liked the nose. SGP:441 - 72 points.

Old Overholt ‘Straight Rye’ (40%, OB, +/-2016)

Another one that used to carry an age statement, and that’s lost it if I’m not mistaken. I think this is made by (or for) Beam as well. Colour: gold. Nose: very very light, the rye doesn’t speak loud. But the oak’s not too talkative either, so all this remains rather elegant, soft, and easy. Pleasant whiffs of wholegrain bread, a touch of lavender and juniper, plus perhaps a little caraway. Mouth: rather fragrant and spicy, with more juniper and caraway, but the oak’s a little rough and too obvious. Like the coffee notes, though, as well as the spicy fudge. Also a little honey, ginger, mint tea… Finish: short, a little earthier. Planks in the aftertaste. Comments: slightly above average in my book, the average being 75. Don’t shoot, Robert Parker and Michael Jackson started it all! SGP:531 - 76 points.

Bib & Tucker 6 yo (46%, OB, bourbon, +/-2015)

My goodness, some extensive work done on the packaging! This comes from Tennessee, but the juice is probably sourced. Not too sure, but there’s an old Indian saying that goes like ‘when white man busy with packaging, he not busy with distilling’. Colour: dark gold. Nose: custard, vanilla cream, more custard, more vanilla cream. And drops of orange juice plus a little hay. My god this is vanilla-ed! Mouth: undoubtedly good. Very soft, perhaps relying on the higher strength, with much vanilla, pastries (especially butter croissants), and then more oak spices, as well as plain sawdust. Finish: medium, a little monolithic, on vanilla and sawdust. A touch of sweet juniper in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this good but very simple. SGP:530 - 78 points.

Sonoma County ‘West of Kentucky Bourbon No.1’ (47.8%, OB, +/-2016)

I think there’s quite some rye in this. I’ll always remember the first time I came across a wee ‘barber’s’ bottle by 1512 Spirits (their former name, I think) while near Opus One in the Napa Valley. But that’s another story… Colour: deep gold. Nose: ah, now we’re talking. A lot of spicy oak, ginger, poppy seeds, sesame oil, wholegrain bread, roasted chestnuts, wood smoke… So it’s extremely bready, and that’s always something I like. Even when it’s very wood-driven! (yes, Serge speaking). Mouth: totally kills the Bib & Tucker, even if this one’s much rougher, perhaps even flawed in a way, but it’s got what really counts, personality and character. All that despite the oak that is, I have to say, really too drying. Also like the feeling of peach skin. Finish: long, certainly sawdusty, but the bread behind keeps it afloat. Comments: I don’t think its technically perfect, and it’s probably too young and too oaky, but yeah, that personality thing… SGP:461 - 82 points.

Westland 24 mo (46%, OB, single malt, heavy char new American oak, 6822 bottles, June 2014)

That’s right, two years. All Westlands I could try so far have been wonderful. I won’t tell you about the mash bill, it’s a little complicated. This is whiskey for geeks! Colour: full gold. Nose: amazing. I get the best blue mountain coffee (and I’m not making this up, honest), roasted nuts, the blackest chocolate, and a very unusual smokiness. Perhaps a working Italian coffee machine? Behind that, some delicate touches of wild flowers (daffodils?) and gentian. Mouth: impeccable. I hate it that some two-years-old whiskey can be this good. Same feeling of roasted coffee beans, satay sauce, roasted malt, dark toffee… And yeah, I swear to Vishnu, blue mountain coffee. Finish: long, extremely chocolaty. Chocolate liqueur and, yep, blue mountain coffee. Serious! Comments: amazing Westland, I liked this larger batch better than their ‘cask 50’ that was heavily charred as well. I’m so glad I’ve got several others yet to taste! No, honest, blue mountain coffee! SGP:352 - 88 points.

A last one please… (they’re about to broadcast a lost episode of Inspektor Derrick on French TV, you know…)

Heaven Hill 19 yo (57.7%, Cadenhead, 150 bottles, 2016)

As always, this is ‘matured in an oak cask’, which is frankly reassuring, given the current price of ebony. Seriously, some nineteen years old Heaven Hill! Colour: orange amber. Nose: back to traditional bourbon, with loads of coconut and vanilla. And more coconut and vanilla. Did I mention coconut and vanilla? And Nutella? And corn syrup? With water: planks and chocolate. Mouth (neat): a few wee varnishy touches, then plenty of jelly babies and assorted confectionary, then peanut butter and fudge plus molasses. As they say in fashion design, it’s a style. With water: sweet oak, vanilla, fudge, cinnamon, nutmeg, grated ginger… Finish: medium, with some drying oak. Over-infused black tea and aspartame. Comments: it may be rare, and sought after, and even historical, or pre-fire, genuine-Bardstown-stuff, whatever… I just think it’s a wee bit flat(tish), slightly one-dimensional, and rather oak-led spirit. Having said that, we’re still way above average, don’t get me wrong, we’re just missing the soul that was in the Sonoma or in the Westland. SGP:451 - 82 points.

Many more American whiskeys very soon on Whiskeyfun ;-).

Check the index of all American whiskies I've tasted so far