
June 14, 2016

Trio for Glenlochy 1980 by Signatory

There aren’t many Western Highlanders left in Scotland. Ben Nevis, Oban… And some newer distilleries. No, not Loch Ewe ;-). Glenlochy was a stellar one but sadly, it was closed in the mid 1980s, together with so many others. It’s great that Signatory still have quite some 1980s, and managed to bottle three casks in 2015 alone. Let’s simply have all three, if you don’t mind!

Glenlochy 34 yo 1980/2015 (46.5%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #2822, 98 bottles)

Ninety-eight bottles, how ‘micro’ is this? Colour: gold. Nose: just superb. High-class vanilla pods (did you know vanilla pods grow on orchids?), with tropical fruits and minty touches. The combination is just perfect, no aromas are singing louder than the others. Papayas ‘on location’ (not in Western supermarkets), small pink bananas, a touch of eucalyptus, homemade custard, wee whiffs of thuja wood, as well as a little church incense (no fancy scents)… Mouth: it can happen that a lot of wood does not become a problem, and this is the case here. Sure there’s something drying and gritty, but that mingles so well with all this mint, peach skin, dry bananas, pollen, or papayas, that this rather symphonic old Glenlochy has become one of the most elegant whiskies I could try this year. Finish: medium, with some nutmeg, dried breadcrumbs (the oak speaking out), and rather green bananas this time. Perhaps even wacky ripe guavas. Comments: provided you’re not afraid of a little oak, this is a Glenlochy anybody should try to try. Yeah I know, 98 bottles…) SGP:471 - 90 points.

Glenlochy 35 yo 1980/2015 (48.0%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #3231, 71 bottles)

A sister cask, and an even smaller outturn. Colour: gold. Nose: a little easier on the oak, and more fruity and floral, ala old Balblair. Tangerines this time, williams pears, orange blossom honey, and once again these touches of fresh mint, just rubbed right between your hands. I find this lively freshness impressive given the age. Mouth: oh goodness, this is honey blended with limoncello and lemongrass water. Yellow peaches, again these ‘un-commercial bananas’, and indeed a little more oak again, in the style of the previous cask, with some menthol and pinesap. The whole plays in perfect sync, so more The Beatles than the New York Dolls. Finish: medium, fresh, mentholated, and with more oranges and mandarins. Leaves your palate as fresh as a baby’s. Some Fernet Branca. Comments: yeah I know, 71 bottles… SGP:571 - 91 points.

Glenlochy 35 yo 1980/2015 (51.1%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #3232, 218 bottles)

A bigger one this time, filled a few seconds after the previous cask. Not sure they would have imagined that 35 years later, some overenthusiastic whisky, err, enthusiast would clumsily try to compare both hogsheads. Colour: pale gold. Nose: certainly grassier, but that may be the higher strength. Mown lawn, crushed leaves, even hints of bay leaves, then menthol again and again, its buddy eucalyptus, and perhaps cherry stems and peach leaves, both make for some excellent herbal teas by the way. With water: some adorable farmy and barleyish whiffs. Mouth (neat): very citrusy, almost citric! Lemon drops, limoncello, melissa leaf extract… I find this totally perfect, and I remember some super-old Bladnochs that used to be like this. You’re right, some Rosebanks too. With water: more of all that, perfect. Finish: medium to long, super-zesty and clean, with a complexity that only age – not oak – can bring to malt whisky. Yeah, rambling on… Comments: totally superlative citrusy whisky. The lighter ones had more ‘obvious’ oak, this one’s truly perfect. SGP:561 - 93 points.

Yes, what a trio!

(Thank you Andrew and Angus)

Check the index of all Glenlochy I've tasted so far