
August 4, 2016

Top-form new Edradour

I’ve been to Edradour again a few months ago, and was flabbergasted by the amount of (smart) work they’ve done there. Oh and by the whiskies, but to put things into perspective, perhaps should we start with, well, you see, those batches…

Edradour 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2000)

Still Pernod’s make. Might be a little difficult… Colour: amber. Nose: well, this batch was rather less offensive than others, despite the ‘inherent’ soapiness and the notes of stewed cabbage. There are some nice leathery oranges on top of all that, as well as notes of flower jelly. Roses? Or rather peonies? (not saying you may make jelly out of peonies, mind you). Mouth: yeah no, the plastic-like notes are there, the soap as well, and that makes the whole experience pretty difficult. Finish: medium, a little better. Oranges and chocolate. Comments: it was the last time we’re trying these batches, and remember, that was for the sake of comparison. SGP:361 - 55 points.

Let’s get serious!...

Edradour 15 yo ‘Fairy Flag’ (46%, OB, +/-2016)

A bizarre label, but it takes all sorts to make a world, doesn’t it. Colour: deep gold. Nose: leather, chocolate, tobacco, and saltpetre, this is a nice start. Goes on with a newly opened pack of cigarettes (soon banned everywhere!) and a little camphor (tiger balm), then rather Seville oranges and some kind of sooty earth, gravel, flints… And let’s not forget our beloved walnuts! Mouth: unusual and excellent. Turmeric, celery, pink grapefruits, chocolate, blackberries, raisins, more tobacco… It’s rather singular (they say idiosyncratic in good circles, don’t they) but that’s totally and asset, while it was an obvious flaw in the old Pernod bottle. Finish: long, with chestnuts, leather, and cracked pepper. Not a common combination, but indeed it works. Comments: a dry, unusual style that really works. Excellent characterful malt, while character is not exactly what many other distilleries seem to be seeking these days. And yet, yes it’s probably ‘older’ distillate by the former owners, as Signatory started distilling in 2002 if I’m not mistaken. Go figure… SGP:352 - 86 points.

More 15 yo please…

Edradour 15 yo 1999/2015 (56.4%, OB, casks #902-903, 472 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: another one that’s maybe not for Whisky Live Buckingham, as it’s got a rustic, earthy side upfront, but it’s all to my liking, with earth indeed, pipe tobacco, soot, ‘old wine cellar’, musty stuff, orange rinds, a new box of 8-9-8 (that’s cigars), and really, a wonderful earthiness. With water: flints and used matches, but in an orderly fashion and without excesses. Perhaps was it for Buckingham, after all. Entering an old wine cellar where the air is cool while it’s steaming hot outside. Mouth (neat): very super good, once again a notch unlikely, with plenty of orange zests and some funny herbs (no, not those, rather peppermint and perhaps sorrel), and then a growing peppery profile that’s surprising yet good. Pepper and orange zests work well together. With water: excellent! Tonic water, oranges, ginger ale, lemongrass… But the whisky’s ruined, it gets as cloudy as camel milk once water’s been added. Finish: long, a little more peppery and leathery. Comments: really very good, once again. We could spend hours arguing about which 15 we liked best. Okay, it’s a draw. SGP:451 - 86 points.

Edradour 10 yo 2004/2015 (60.7%, OB, Straight From The Cask, sherry butt, cask #407, 912 bottles)

Yes that’s a lot of bottles at cask strength, even from a butt, but they’re 50cl bottles. Oh and this is Signatory’s own make now, not Pernod’s heritage. Colour: amber. Nose: extremely nutty and sooty, as if you’d be entering some kind of damp place where they keep walnuts and pecans. That’s all fictional, of course, not sure that would be the right place for keeping nuts. We’ve also got the leather and tobacco combo, a few ‘good’ struck matches, and then several autumny scents, between mushrooms and, well, autumn leaves. With water: exceptional! Incense, pot-pourri, ‘visiting a Balinese temple’, earth, mushroom… A very umami-esque whisky for sure. I’m all for this, it’s oh-so uncommercial. Mouth (neat): a blend of Spanish brandy and Demerara rum this time, I assure you. Raisins, prunes, bitter oranges, ginger, and repeat. I find this excellent and really powerful. With water: amazing how it swims. Pecan pie, good caramel, sweet pipe tobacco, prunes… In truth we’re in Armagnac territories. Finish: long, a bit spicier, but still very armagnacky. That would be armagnac at cask strength, no need to say. Comments: a Gascon malt whisky, who could resist that? Besides, I think it’s dear Ian Henderson who distilled it. SGP:462 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Edradour I've tasted so far