
May 10, 2016

Tobermory or not Tobermory

A stupid, very stupid Shakespearian headline. Apologies. Now a few Tobermories from the Isle of Mull can't do any harm, even if they're currently a little overshadowed by their peated brother, Ledaig. Besides, we've hardly ever seriously tasted 30 of them. In almost 14 years of Whiskyfun! So let's see what we can find... And perhaps have them by ascending strength.

Tobermory 20 yo 1995/2015 (48%, Claxton's, hogshead, cask # 1501-652, 279 bottles)

By a new independent bottler from York, England. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: totally and plainly Tobermory, with some baker's yeast, fresh bread, damp raw wool, mashed turnip and celeriac, ale... All that is nicely coated with some custard and touches of bacon, which may suggest a refill sherry hogshead, but I may well be wrong. In any case, we're as close to distillery character as possible, yet it's not feinty at all. Not saying Tobermory is feinty! In other words, very nice nose. Mouth: one of the best Tobermories I could try. All qualities, without any flaws. Peppery bread, lemon juice, tons of malt, some smoky porridge, drops of limoncello... But it's the maltiness that's most impressive. Finish: medium, rounder, with some maple syrup. Malt and lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: this starts very well. I'm always procrastinating with the 'T malts' (anything after Talisker) but that's obviously stupid. SGP:452 - 87 points.

Tobermory 20 yo 1994/2015 (53.5%, Gleann Mor, A Rare Find, cask #98, 274 bottles)

Whether a twenty years old Tobermory is a rare find remains debatable, but after all, only quality counts. Colour: gold. Nose: we're very close, this has just a little more vanilla, it seems, and perhaps more maple syrup. Other than that, same ballpark - at a higher strength. And no bacon. With water: more austere. Ink, carbon paper, scoria, concrete, stout, baker's yeast... Nutshell, what one would expect from Tobermory. Mouth (neat): much more difficult than the Claxton's this time, bitterer, yeastier, dirtier... But it's not void of any charms. With water: a little better, thanks to this lemon that's coming out. Peppered lemon-flavoured yoghurt, or something like that. Finish: long, creamier, and a little cleaner. Cider and pepper. Comments: good, but it hasn't got the 1995's clarity and sexiness. Certainly rawer. SGP:362 - 79 points.

Tobermory 20 yo 1995/2015 (54.7%, Rest & Be Thankful, bourbon, cask #1076, 250 bottles)

Back to 1995, aren't we curious? Colour: white wine. Nose: could it be a vintage thing? This one's cleaner and better balanced again, with some malt for sure but very little 'dirty yeast', in a style that's very similar to that of the first 1995. Sunflower oil, vanilla, brioche, wool, mashed potatoes... I guess what's really important with this profile is balance, and balance seems to have been achieved. With water: croissants ;-). Mouth (neat): excellent, zesty yet rounded (thanks to the bourbon wood), with a perfect earthiness underneath, and these rather delicate yeasty and malty notes from the distillate. Not to forget its coastalness (peppered oysters). With water: goody good, just a little less polished than the first 1995. Seriously, a vintage thing? Finish: rather long, earthier, more peppery. Hints of tequila in the aftertaste (we'll soon do a massive tequila tasting, by the way). Comments: all very good. Good work on Tobermory by some indies these days. SGP:452 - 86 points.

Seriously, is it a vintage issue? Let's have another 1994 and try to find out...

Tobermory 21 yo 1994/2015 (55.4%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #660881, 265 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: ha-ha, same feeling of ink and carbon paper, plus some menthol essence and perhaps a little ham and charcoal. And of course some yeast, perhaps even dollops of that dreadful thing from the UK called Marmite. Malt for barbeque? With water: German weissbeer and plenty of baker's yeast. Mouth (neat): right between the others. Neither 1994 nor 1995. Perhaps 1994.5? Seriously, I find it a little austere and dry, and we're fairly close to 'eating the barbeque from the bottom'. With water: frankly better, but it remains 'globally yeasty'. If you like bread or pastry when they're not totally cooked, so rather 'pale', this is for you. Finish: medium, with more pepper and, hurray, more lemon. Comments: probably more a matter of parcels of casks than a vintage issue, but I definitely like the 1995s better. Now, this one isn’t bad. At all. SGP:352 - 82 points.

Not an easy session, but let's have a last one, and let's try to find some rocket fuel, just for fun...

Tobermory 8 yo 2001/2010 (60.9%, The Whisky Agency, Liquid Library, bourbon)

An older bottling, but just for fun... Colour: white wine. Nose: oh sugar, it's a Ledaig that's been labelled as Tobermory! My bad... So lapsang souchong and ashes. There, we're done. With water: smoked wool, garden bonfire under the rain (it was lit before the rain started, naturally), and smoked tea with some yak butter. Don't the Tibetan monks drink that? Mouth (neat): tears you apart. Cough, cough... Almonds and tar? Would make a young Port Ellen taste like Glenkinchie. With water: oh, but its great! We tamed the beast, it seems. Lemon, seawater, smoked tea, cigar ashes... All that is very good. Finish: long, well-chiselled, pure, and, there, crystalline. Comments: a surprisingly flawless young peat bomb. Which reminds me that we've got many new Ledaigs to taste, so stay tuned. SGP:458 - 86 points.

Check the index of all Tobermory I've tasted so far