February 1, 2016

The Mortlach week

Something that may have never been done before, one different Mortlach session every day, for the whole week. That should make for thirty, perhaps forty, or even fifty different Mortlachs within this week, we’ll see. Good luck to us all! So…

The Mortlach week, Monday

That’s one of the problems with NAS whiskies, you can’t quite add them to a vertical tasting session. I mean, you can, but where would you put them? The taster’s actually forced to assume that they’re 3 yo, so to have them first, unless ‘something’ says otherwise. Not quite so with Mortlach’s ‘Rare Old’ version, which we’ve already tried two years ago, when the first batch came out. So we’ll have it first, and then, have a bunch of other Mortlachs at random. Mind you, we’ve got many dozens to taste…

Mortlach 'Rare Old' (43.4%, OB, 50cl, +/-2015)

A controversial bottling when it came out, because it’s bottled at 50cl, because of the lack of age statement, because of the slightly pushy packaging, and because of the price, but it seems that it’s slowly gone off the radar since back then. Colour: orangey gold. Nose: starts with leather, bitter oranges, and Mortlach’s trademark meatiness – but that would rather be ham. After that, rather youngish notes of plum eau-de-vie and flint, coffee, as well as yeasty touches that suggest youth. A little earth as well, beer… I find it rather different. Mouth: I like it a little better on the palate. Leather again, chestnuts, orange zests, something slightly sour (lemon juice?), and a little mead and mustard. Then a little metal, some bacon, and a little leaven. It’s a little rough, but that may be an asset. Finish: medium, with some kind of sour honey, more leather, and certainly more malt. A metallic/salty touch in the aftertaste, as well as Seville oranges, pepper, and caramel. Comments: rather rustic and robust. SGP:451 - 81 points.

Mortlach 1995/2014 'Stem Ginger Preserve' (46%, Wemyss Malts, hogshead, 303 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: it’s the Rare Old with less oak, so with more freshness and more fruits. More my style, with hints of tiger balm, green bananas, old coins, limestone, cigarette tobacco, and only far in the distance, a little ham. So, this one’s globally much cleaner. Mouth: same comments. More lemon, grapefruits, even kiwis, plus touches of vanilla and coconut. The whole works perfectly well, its one of the fresher Mortlachs. Finish: long, very zesty. Very very zesty for Mortlach. Mineral aftertaste (chalk). Comments: I’m a fan of this style that let’s the distillate speak out. Really excellent. SGP:551 - 87 points.

Mortlach 12 yo 1998/2010 (43%, Dun Bheagan, sherry hogsheads, casks #10188/10189, 810 bottles)

Long time no Dun Bheagan! Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s well a Mortlach, with these leathery, bacony, and mineral notes, but it’s also got walnuts, possibly from the sherry, as well as touches of honey vinegar and brown ale. Mouth: good, easy, lacking a part of the great definition that the Wemyss had, but it’s got these touches of mustard, then dried fruits such as raisins and dates. Sulphur-like hints, oranges, more leather… Good body given the low strength. Finish: medium, with more ginger, leather, and oranges. Comments: we’re closer to the Rare Old. Very similar profiles and overall quality. SGP:451 - 81 points.

Mortlach 14 yo 1997/2011 (46%, Murray McDavid, Château d'Yquem finish, 400 bottles)

This baby from MMcD’s most emblematic ‘ace-ing’ period. Colour: gold. Nose: the famous Sauternes does the talking here, even a bold distillate such as Mortlach doesn’t have much to say in this context. Or rather, it does, but only after honey, ripe apricots, and mirabelle jam have spoken. Quite some fudge too. Mouth: really sweet and jammy. I was afraid the spirit’s natural sulphury side and the barrel’s burnt sulphur would have combined and created a monster. Not so, in fact, but we known that they’ve learnt that ‘sweet’ barriques ought to be rinsed in and out before filling them with whisky. Mortlach’s leather roars beyond the plums and honey. Finish: medium, a touch gingery, leathery, peppery… But all that is coated with raisins. Muscadelle, I suppose? Comments: one that worked pretty well. SGP:651 - 82 points.

Let’s see what else we can find (at low strength)…

Mortlach (40%, OB, 75cl, +/-1980)

This baby from the last time Mortlach was sold as a single malt by its owners (beyond the Flora and Fauna or Rare Malts ranges). Colour: pale white wine (hurray!) Nose: you have to like this style, but if you do, you’re in for a treat. Indeed, this is full of paraffin, ink, waxes, old newspapers, sulphur (real sulphur), and then cured ham. On top of all that, a few yellow flowers, such as dandelions. Great nose, very concise and clean. Mouth: the low strength is a problem with this profile, because it makes it a little too cardboardy and dry. Not the first time I’m trying this whisky, I’ve always experienced this. But the core is pretty perfect, with waxy and inky lemons that would kind of hint at the old Inverness distilleries, rather than at classic Speyside. Finish: medium, ultra-dry. Damp papers, flour, soot, more ink, citrons and grapefruits… Comments: a totally un-modern style, really worth trying if you never did. SGP:362 - 86 points.

Mortlach 14 yo 1998/2013 (46%, The Maltman, bourbon cask, cask #10998, 376 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: sweeter, fruitier, gentler, with tangerines, nectar, light honey, vanilla fudge, beeswax… It’s rather un-Mortlach, and quite Glenmorangie-ish, how bizarre. Nice nose, though… Mouth: more body this time, more sooty acridness, more grassy tobacco, more leather… In short, more Mortlach. A good, solid Mortlach. Overripe apples, acacia honey, a little green tea, also. Finish: medium, with some ginger and chalk, then vanilla and apple juice. The bourbon wood may have smoothened it up a bit. Comments: goody good, that’s all I can say. Apologies. SGP:451 - 83 points.

A last one today, perhaps. We’ll have many more Mortlach very soon...

Mortlach 18 yo (43.4%, OB, 50cl, +/-2015)

Really liked it the first time I tried it. Colour: gold orange. In my experience, orange hues and a kind of evenness always imply that caramel’s been added. Nose: the oak feels more (warm sawdust – all OBs have that these days), but there are also lovely notes of praline, chocolate, mushrooms, chalk, cigars, sandalwood, espresso… All that really works. Mouth: despite the drying oak that feels a bit too much for my taste, this cigary, herbal, liqueury, tarry, and waxy combination really works. Goes on with raisins, prunes, drops of date arak, speculoos, mocha (plus Schnapps!), bitter chocolate… It is a characterful malt, which is obviously great. Finish: rather long, this time more on leather again, green tobacco, coffee beans, bitter oranges, more bitter chocolate… Comments: a relatively dry one, but I guess that’s what Mortlach is all about. Right up my alley (despite the oak that§ feels a bit). SGP:352 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Mortlach I've tasted so far