
May 22, 2016

Tequila and mezcal head to head, again

Last Sunday we tried to answer this crucial question, what’s best, mezcal or tequila? Everything has been lousy, the procedures and the results, which had been an unexpected draw. So we’ll try again, picking up various tequilas and mezcals at random…

Corralejo ‘Reposado’ (38%, OB, tequila, 100% agave, +/-2010)

This blue baby – but is it blue agave? – was triple distilled, according to the label. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: it’s a rather earthy and rooty one, reminding me of some Swiss gentian eau-de-vie. I also get bitter oranges and grapefruits, as well as a little tincture of iodine, which makes it rather ‘mezcaly’ tequila. A little tar and plasticine as well. Mouth: I find it very good, rather mineral and earthy again, with a development on grapefruits again, with a saltiness in the background. Lacks punch, though, this would probably rock at 45% vol. Finish: medium, perhaps a little too bitter this time. Which is strange, since it was triple distilled using an unusual set-up, pot then column then pot again. Comments: what’s sure is that I like this reposado much better than their anejo. SGP:461 - 80 points.

Pelotón de la Muerte (41%, OB, mezcal joven, +/-2015)

100% espadin from Oaxaca. But what a name, yet again! Better than Norse gods or Scottish lighthouses? You decide… Colour: white. Nose: very typical rustic mezcal, ridden with iodine, smoked herbs, earth, olives and gherkins, lime, and perhaps pickled samphires. It’s very fresh, it is a style that I like a lot. Mouth: super good, starting medicinal (more iodine, antiseptic), getting very earthy, with lemon peel, more olives, and a very ashy side, ala Octomore. Lapsang souchong. Another mezcal that’s making googly eyes at some of Islay’s peatier whiskies. The strength is perfect. Finish: long, very smoky, tarry, earthy, and lemony. Excellent. Comments: could we have this in a more civilised bottle? I’m joking… What’s sure is that mezcal is taking the lead. SGP:363 - 83 points.

Tres Mujeres ‘Extra Anejo’ (38%, OB, tequila, 100% agave, +/-2015)

Another strange bottle. This one’s quite expensive, around 70€. Let’s see what these three ladies have got to tell us… Colour: straw. Perhaps extra-anejo indeed, but not for very long. Nose: this one’s very soft, much softer than the two previous ones. It’s like nosing Glenmorangie after Ardbeg. Having said that it’s complex, delicate, rather floral, with some lilac and orange blossom, and then a superb green wulong or any other top-range green tea. Only wee touches of lavender-scented soap, as can be found in many tequilas. Mouth: a little firmer, starting rather medicinal once again (antiseptic, camphor) and going on with sweets and jellies. Even raspberries. Turkish delights. The agave keeps singing in the background, which keeps it fresh and, well, agave-y. I find this very good. Finish: medium, sweet. Blood oranges, this time? Comments: it’s quite amazing that these 38% taste like 43%. Proof that it’s big spirit. Liked this one quite a lot. SGP:551 – 84 points.

Mezcal Eterno ‘Joven No.1’ (40%, OB, mezcal, +/-2016)

More sleek packaging around this trendy pure espadin from Oaxaca, that’s meant to be ‘artesanal’ (the equivalent of craft with whisky). Colour: white. Nose: well, not much happening, especially after the Peloton and the Tres Mujeres. Whiffs of broken branches and damp earth, perhaps, gravel, grass… It is very discreet so far, I’d never had said this was craft mezcal. Mouth: a little more happening. Prickly lemon juice, a little ginger, touches of salt, a little tar and rubber… Really one of the softest mezcals I could try, you’d rather think it’s a mixto (only partially agave). Finish: short, a little ashy. Comments: a very gentle mezcal. Perhaps not for us whisky people. SGP:341 - 76 points.

Jose Cuervo ‘Tradicional Silver’ (38%, OB, tequila, 100% agave, +/-2014)

One of the largest brands, together with Sauza. And of course, as mentioned on the label, this unaged tequila is ‘handcrafted’. Colour: white. Nose: even less happening than in the Eterno. It’s not that it’s not nice, it’s just pretty innocuous, with a little lemon, a little grass, and a wee bit of olive. Mouth: same power as that of the Eterno, that is to say not much, but its relatively clean. More lemon and grass, plus a touch of pitch and a curious feeling of sugar syrup, and even vanilla. A real light one. Finish: short, a little sweet, but clean and rather fresh. Oranges in the aftertaste. Comments: harmless blanco or joven, not bad at all. Perhaps tequila for good people who do not like tequila? SGP:341 - 75 points.

Mezcal is having the floor again…

Mezcales De Leyenda ‘Oaxaca’ (42%, OB, mezcal joven, +/-2015)

This one’s organic mezcal, made with espadin agaves from San Juan del Rio in a small Mexican cooperative. Colour: white. Nose: nice definition, with some lemongrass and a wee gamy side, around smoked ham, perhaps. Then the usual olives, some tar, a little plasticine, and perhaps hints of chlorine. The whole is very nice, pretty light, and seemingly refreshing, let’s see… Mouth: in the style of the Eterno, so relatively light, although more smoke and salty brine start to come out after a few seconds. Salted lemon juice? Ready-made margarita? Finish: short to medium, lemony, briny. Really gentle, a tad smokier in the end. Ashy aftertaste. Comments: pretty good, just a little lazy at times. Another introductory mezcal? SGP:342 - 78 points.

Herencia De Plata ‘Reposado’ (38%, OB, tequila, 100% agave, +/-2015)

From Jalisco. I had found their anejo relatively to my liking (WF 78). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a very fruity, sweet one, with, well, fruits coated with corn syrup and custard. That gives it a fudgy and chocolaty character I’m not too fond of. Mexican Nutella? Mouth: same feeling of Mexican Bailey’s, not quite my thing. Butterscotch. The agave-y notes are well hidden behind all that, provided they’re there. More or less in the style of the Tequila 2 that we had last Sunday, only even rounder and fudgy. Finish: short, chocolaty, vanilla-ed. Comments: I’m sure this baby has got its fans, but I wouldn’t say it’s for whisky enthusiasts. Unless you’re a fan of Haig Club, that is. SGP:531 - 68 points.

Del Maguey ‘San Luis Del Rio Special Stitzel-Weller Cask Finish’ (42%, OB, mezcal, +/-2014)

Oh, no! And around €140, mind you. In short, another scary cross-genre spirit, modern-Scotch-style. Colour: extremely pale white wine. Nose: good, the oak is totally anecdotal at this point, which is great news. Having said that it hasn’t got most other Del Maguey’s vibrancy and punch, I’m finding this one a little sleepy, as if it had been filtered. Distant ashes, olives, brine, tar… Mouth: better, but it’s still a little uncertain. Finding limoncello in mezcal, is that normal? Then rather salted margarita, with a little vanilla and Nutella. Exactly what I wouldn’t like to see in some craft mezcal, but that’s probably only me. Well, not sure… Finish: medium, a little uncertain. What I enjoy is this floral smokiness. Geranium? A little chalk in the aftertaste. Comments: disappointed – especially given the price. I find the cheaper Del Magueys much, and I mean much better. SGP:541 - 74 points.

One last tequila…

Ocho ‘La Latilla Reposado’ (40%, OB, tequila, 100% agave, 2015)

Single estate tequila! I have to say I had really enjoyed Ocho’s Curado a few years back (WF 85). Colour: almost white. Nose: it’s a superb, highly polished tequila, very subtle and complex, with a lovely floral freshness and many cooked fruits, from apples to mangos. So it’s not quite of the smoky/herbal style, but this very delicate profile is wonderful. Barbecued peaches. Mouth: excellent, with a soapy arrival – we’re talking ‘tequila soap’ – as well as hints of violets, jasmine tea, and tangerines. We’re far from the heavy and often very spectacular ‘all agave’ smoky style, this it’s beautiful. Twenty years ago, I’d have added that it’s a little feminine. Finish: short, perhaps, but beautifully floral and fruity. The agave yodels in the aftertaste. Comments: excellent, if a little soft, perhaps. SGP:441 - 85 points.

… And one last mezcal…

Pierde Almas 'Tobaziche' (48%, OB, mezcal, +/-2015)

Tobaziche is a variety of wild agave. This mezcal matures for around 12 years (probably in stone) before it’s liberated. It comes from San Baltazar Guelavila, and is ‘genuinely craft’. Colour: white. Nose: back to the smoky/leafy/briny, totally agave-y style that we cherish. I wouldn’t say it’s wham-bam mezcal, though, as it’s not totally big, but the purity is impressive. Smoked tea leaves, perhaps used coffee grounds, cigar smoke… All very nice. Mouth: perfect, extremely agave-y, starting rounded and even a little sweetish (grenadine syrup, Cointreau), and getting then brinier and smokier by the second. Also floral tones, such as geranium, lavender, and violet. I know that doesn’t always sound great in whisky, but under these circumstances, that’s all good news. Tends to become more citrusy as well, with tangerines and pink grapefruits. All for the better. Finish: rather long, extremely fresh and sauvignony. In other words, more grapefruits. Very smoky aftertaste. Comments: simply super good, it’s one of those Islays of tequila/mezcal. Perhaps rather Caol Ila? SGP:453 - 87 points.

So, the results. Did we mangae to decide between tequila and mezcal this time. The former’s averaget was rather close again – says this guy who always thought mezcal, when not taki is 78.4, while the latter’s is 79.6. Thang the industrial junk into consideration, was always vastly superior to tequila.

LAST MINUTE BONUS!! (because you’ve been quiet and understanding ;-))

Licor de Nanche (20%, OB, Casa Argàez, Mexico, +/-2011)

Licor de Nanche (20%, OB, Casa Argàez, Mexico, +/-2011) A bottle that comes straight from Mexico. To be honest, I had thought it was tequila before I checked the label more carefully. And I should have noticed that it came from Yucatan, not from Oaxaca or Jalisco! Nanche is nance, AKA golden spoon, a very acid yellow fruit that grows in tropical America. A first here at WF Towers. Colour: deep amber. Nose: amazing, you would think you’re nosing some old sweet moscatel. It’s also got a cheesy and vinegary side, not that far from some balsamic vinegars, as well as hints of sorghum spirit like they make in China. Perhaps fermenting figs as well. Mouth: very good! Rather vin de paille this time, we’re close to the world of sweet wine, both in structure and, well, organoleptically speaking. What’s really lovely is that it’s not too sweet. Like it. Finish: rather long, not too spirity. More old sweet muscat. Comments: a good surprise, this is better than a bad tequila! I’ll poor some to some wine friends tonight – blind of course. Some fun to be had. SGP:730 - (useless) points.

Check the index of all Tequila and Mezcal I've tasted so far