
October 14, 2016

Special Releases Special, today Mannochmore

So, Mannochmore. The name hasn’t got the cachet of Brora, Port Ellen, or Lagavulin, but I’ve had some good ones in the past. No, not that famous ‘black’ one that used to be quite a tearjerker ;-)… We’ll have the new Special Release today, but first some apéritif(s) as usual…

Mannochmore 12 yo 2000/2012 (46%, Douglas of Drumlanrig, refill hogshead, cask #9231, 162 bottles)

In my experience these young Mannochmore aren’t quite whiskies to nose, but the palates can be real good. Colour: white wine. Nose: bright fresh apple juice and barley water, with a thin layer of honey and touches of fresh croissants. Then a little mint and rather more peelings than fruit flesh. Perhaps limestone? Yes, wet limestone. A nice fresh nose. Mouth: typical young unsherried Speysider, but rather more pungent than others, with some green pepper and bitter apples. Then all kind of apples, seasoned with white pepper. Pretty unsexy, and probably malt whisky ‘for blends’, but I enjoy this presence. Finish: medium, a tad too bitter and ‘green’, perhaps. Comments: solid, honest, quite austere ‘natural’ malt whisky. SGP:361 - 78 points.

Mannochmore 1998/2014 (46%, Spirit of Scotland)

To be honest, I used to think that this older line by G&M/Speymalt had been discontinued a long time ago. Apparently, I was wrong (who said again, who?) Colour: white wine. Nose: more or less the same, but this one’s also got a wee petroly/metallic side that comes unexpected. Old toolbox. Had the cask been patched? Were there nails inside? Mouth: bizarre, spirity, extremely grassy, and frankly unbalanced. Bitter oils? Not much pleasure to be had here… Finish: rather long, very peppery. Thai pepper prawns without the prawns. Likewise with red chilli instead of pepper. Comments: it’s difficult, I think – and I believe I’m no chicken. SGP:281 - 65 points.

Mannochmore 25 yo 1990/2016 (53.4%, OB, Special Release, 2,954 bottles)

Diageo had another 1990 six or seven years ago that had been just excellent (WF 88). It was a 18 years old. Colour: gold. Nose: some first fill or new American oak involved, it seems. Some creamy vanilla, fresh sweet sawdust, marshmallows, nail polish remover, candyfloss… We’re actually almost in bourbon territories, which is surprising, but given what we experienced with our aperitifs today, I won’t throw stones. Especially since I quite enjoy this! Let’s see what water will do to it… With water: a farminess coming through, as often, and rather more straight barley than before. Fresh coconut water. Mouth (neat): creamy and fruity, we’re in a candy shop. Lemon bonbons, more candyfloss, custard, a little coconut, a little green pepper… With water: good. Peppery wood, sweet wood, orange squash, coconut, vanilla, tangerines… A style that can be found in some contemporary Benriachs. Finish: medium, on the same flavours, more or less. Comments: a feeling of re-racking that’s been well and smartly done. To think that they could have poured this rather lovely juice into… Loch Dhu when it was younger! SGP:551 – 85 points.

Check the index of all Mannochmore I've tasted so far