
October 17, 2016

Special Releases Special, today Linkwood

So there is an old Linkwood. I‘ll always remember Michael Jackson’s comments about roses and other precious flowers hiding in Linkwood’s nose, that’s why each and every time I’m tasting Linkwood since my first edition of the Malt Companion, I’m looking for roses. And so of course, I usually find them. Now let’s be fair, let’s start this very short session with another old Linkwood…

Linkwood 30 yo 1984/2015 (54.4%, Riegger's Selection, cask #5270, 372 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: roses! I’m joking, that would rather be various honeys, pollen, stewed apples, sponge cake (with a nod to The Sponge), then some interesting notes of half-burnt chocolate cake, and perhaps simply toasted oak. So far, so very nice. With water: superb, with some Barbour grease, damp earth, saltpetre, and a large chunk of honey and hazelnut cake. In short, a great cake straight from your oven, covered with earth. It really is a perfect nose. Mouth (neat): excellent. Starts malty and chocolaty, and goes more towards oranges and mint after that. A development that’s perfectly perfect. With water: swims very well. Earth up, cake slightly down. Balance is tops. Finish: long and, as often, rather grassier. Perhaps a little green oak in the aftertaste. Comments: I was ready to go to 91, but just because of the slightly bitter(ish) aftertaste, that’ll rather be… SGP:561 - 90 points.

Linkwood 37 yo 1978/2016 (50.3%, OB, Special Release, 6,114 bottles)

It’s going to be tough after the pretty perfect 30 yo, but we all know that Linkwood can age very gracefully. Just ask G&M. Colour: gold. Nose: roses! And this time, I’m not joking. Plus other flowers, as well as ‘dry’ waxes, some tiger balm, certainly a good dollop of turpentine, and then more and more pinesap. No, more than that, it really gets pinesappy (some idle, retired language teacher will kill you one day, S.) Some pineapples and peaches too. With water: tends to become more mineral, even after a good ten minutes. Touches of mash as well, yeast, bread… This was well barley. Old lady’s fur coat – an indeed, perhaps old-style rose-led perfume. Mouth (neat): this is Foreman vs. Frazier, both Linkwoods are returning blow for blow. In a way, this older one’s a tad fresher and more on fruits, whilst the 30 was more on cakes and malt. But what’s the best… I mean, my favourite? Hard to say… With water: gets drier, careful with water. Often the case with old whiskies, water unleashes the tannins that used to hide behind the alcohol. Add just one drop of Vittel (or any Scottish waters as soon as they don’t cost you an arm, which is the case in France – yeah, despite the Brexit – granted, so far). Finish: medium, more almondy. Comments: really, careful with water! I was ready to go up to 91 while it was still neat, while that would rather be around 85 when it’s reduced down to around 45% vol. Good, that’ll be… SGP:551 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Linkwood I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback