
October 28, 2016

Special Releases Special, today Cragganmore

Can you believe that, no recent official Cragganmore 12 yo in sight at WF Towers! Thank god, Cadenhead are known for the wideness of their ranges, they have many names that couldn’t be found anywhere else. Such as a Cragganmore…

Cragganmore-Glenlivet 16 yo 1999/2015 (46%, Cadenhead, Small Batch)

Colour: straw. Nose: very interesting. This is obviously not heavily sherried, and while it starts rather gently – as many Speysiders would, on orchard fruits, sweet barley and honey – it really tends to become fatter and more herbal at the same time. Something camphory and eucalyptus-like, embrocations, liquorice… And even a fair deal of wood smoke, and perhaps even peat. Tinned apricots and mint oil. Interesting, really… Mouth: it’s really fat, almost thick as oil, with the texture of liquid honey. Some Ovaltine – which was expected – and some milk chocolate, on a solid herbal base that would involve mint, liquorice and eucalyptus again. I also seem to detect a little lemongrass. Finish: rather long, still fat, with the usual peppery side from the oak. Even a wee saltiness. Comments: really richly textured, this Cragganmore. Excuse me, Cragganmore-Glenlivet. And indie Cragganmores as are rare as Justin B. singing Johann-Sebastian B., so… SGP:452 - 87 points.

Cragganmore (55.7%, OB, Special Release, 4,932 bottles, 2016)

This year the NAS is not the Cynelish, it’s the Cragganmore. Not too sure about the rationale behind that. Maybe is it super-old and the distillers do not want us to have any preconceptions? Or maybe was the stencilling accidentally erased before they started to use barcodes on the casks? Or barcodes stripped away? Or is it just about blenders’ creativity indeed? About breaking them free from their shackles? Colour: gold. Nose: so very close! This is the 1999 at a higher strength, more or less. Same fat orchardy style, same herbal hints… I’m really all for this. With water: indeed, we’re extremely close. This one may have a wee tad more earthy earth. Perhaps cedar wood? Mouth (neat): totally excellent, and rather different this time. The fatness is there again, and so is the honey, but it’s also got rooty notes, between some kind of beetroot and sweet liquorice. Extremely creamy mouth feel. With water: maple syrup all over the place, plus a slice of pineapple and more honey. The earthy/rooty side is never far away. Finish: quite long, with a little more oranges, and plenty of fruit syrups. Perfect oaky balance. Comments: something extra. Really high-class, I’m starting to wonder if that’s not a cunning plan, bottling some perfect 25yo malt whisky, wiping away the age statement, and using these as proof of the excellence of NAS whisky in general. Come on, I’m joking! SGP:551 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Cragganmore I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback