
March 29, 2016

New grain whiskies from Scotland

Today let's have more middle-aged and older Scottish grain whiskies (this little session for dear John MacLellan).

Loch Lomond 15 yo 2000 ‘Single Grain XV’ (46%, Dà Mhìle, organic single grain, +/-2015)

A single cask, filled at Loch Lomond. They can distil just any kind of spirit at Loch Lomond. Colour: straw. Nose: hello? Perhaps hints of old newspapers, plus drops of cider. Perhaps. Not much happening, this one’s pretty silent. On the other hand, there can’t be any flaws, that’s the better side… Mouth: ouch-y. Raw alcohol, apple liqueur, chamomile, and dried coconut. That’s all, folks. Finish: short, sweetish. Marshmallows, perhaps? Fantasy williams pears? Comments: an ultra-light dram, even Haig Club has more flavours. It’s not technically repulsive, but I just cannot see why and when one would quaff this. Unless you desperately need organic whisky. SGP:320 - 50 points.

North British 26 yo 1989/2015 (58.4%, Cadenhead, World Whiskies)

As Uncle Bob used to say, if Cadenhead do grain, it must be special grain. And isn’t it funny that they put this into their ‘world whiskies’ line? I believe, but I could be wrong, that North British were distilling maize at that time. Colour: gold. Nose: yeah well, it’s got a depth and even a wideness that aren’t very ‘grain’. Grass and apple peelings, plus coconut oil and a touch of fresh butter. Butterscotch. With water: whisky for kids. You just need to take the alcohol away. Shortbread, coconut biscuits, and more shortbread. Mouth (neat): hold on, there’s something happening indeed. Some sour wood and coconut water, some sweet beer, IPA style, and a touch of juniper. Right, gin. Not my thing, but it’s neither ugly, nor non-existent. With water: there are even oranges. A wee fizzy touch. Finish: medium to short, orangey. Comments: it’s rather thin but then again, it’s grain. Not quite a fan, but it’s certainly one of the good ones. SGP:530 - 80 points (a high score for grain!).

Port Dundas 24 yo 1991/2016 (55.1%, The Grainman, oloroso finish, cask #7, 282 bottles)

The Grainman is a new range by Donald Hart’s The Maltman. Makes sense, doesn’t it. Curious to see what a sherry finish has done to a humble grain. Maybe not such a st***d idea… Colour: straw. Nose: ah yes, this is quite nice. Pastries, croissants, raisin cookies, shortbread… And most importantly, no over-the-top coconut! Hurray! With water: nice whiffs of sugar cane and light cigars. Reminds me of those cigars I used to smoke when I was 20, called Schimmelpenninck. They were bad but they were smelling good. And I was young. Mouth (neat): eau-de-vie de barley, plus a touch of lavender ice cream, Dutch genever, and burnt kirsch (the distiller was in a hurry). With water: fine. Croissants with a dash of white pepper. Finish: rather short, but the coconut’s still not there. More hurrays. Comments: same overall quality as that of the North British. This one’s drier, but perhaps a little more, say elegant. In a way, maltier. SGP:440 - 80 points.

Lochside 48 yo 1964/2015 (41.2%, Cooper's Choice, sherry butt, cask #6799, 540 bottles)

LOL, when a whisky is 48 years old, do you really need to add on the label that those were ‘long years’? Just joking. As for this being a grain, I guess you know that just like Ben Nevis, Lochside used to shelter a column still along the pot stills for a while. And I remember well a Lochside grain by James MacArthur (green label) that used to be pure rocket fuel. So funny! Colour: amber. Nose: between rum and bourbon, with plenty of pencil shavings. Including pencil lead, mind you. And yet it remained soft like an angel, until more and more turpentine comes out. Along many compounds ending with –ol. I find this beautifully intriguing, but a little scary with regards to the palate. Let’s see… Mouth: the definition of smoothness. It’s a miracle that the oak didn’t take over, and only imparted notes of suntan lotion (right, coconut-based suntan oil). It’s all on pastries, shortbread, croissants, Danish cookies, butterscotch, amaretti… And there are even crystallised cherries somewhere… Maraschino? This is all very delicate, and anything but tired or over-oaked. A genuine miracle… Finish: quite short, but still smooth and balanced. Hazelnut liqueur, perhaps, Werther’s Originals… Comments: it’s almost as old as Keith Richards, and just like Keef, it’s as alive as a newborn kitten (S., that was lame!) A very, very lovely old thing – despite all the pencil shavings. SGP:541 - 88 points.

Perhaps one last grain, because I wouldn't want to overdo a good thing… And speaking of Haig Club…

Cameronbridge 30 yo 1979/2009 (51.3%, Duncan Taylor, Rare Auld, cask #3587, 214 bottles)

Duncan Taylor had many of these casks in their high days, and indeed I’ve already tried quite a bunch of them. And I often found them ‘very good’ for grain. Colour: gold. Nose: quite a monster after the Lochside, but in fact, the aromas are more or less identical, just more ‘in your face’. Cakes and oak and white chocolate, plus quite a lot of vanilla. Sponge cake. With water: orange soda and banana wine, like they make in Martinique. Or is that Guadeloupe? Worth tasting, but don’t hold your breath. Mouth (neat): rather on the fruity side, with pineapples and apples, then something tropical (pina colada) and an unexpected maltiness. Rather a firmer grain whisky. A varnishy side as well. With water: same. Pineapples and apples. It’s thirty years old fruit juice! Finish: medium, rather clean and fruity. I remember I had thought other casks had something Irish in them. That’s true again. Comments: I don’t know what to add. It was very good, there. SGP:630 - 84 points.

Check the index of all Grains I've tasted so far