
May 9, 2016

New Dark Cove vs. Caol Ila vs. Port Ellen

The general release of Ardbeg Dark Cove is in, but rather than select other supposedly-young Ardbegs as sparring partners – and let’s be honest, there aren’t many ‘disclosed’ new ones around – we’ll choose some other young peaters, to try to have a better grasp of contemporary ‘Beg in the general Islayian scheme. Game?

Ardbeg ‘Dark Cove’ (46.5%, OB, general release, 2016)

I had enjoyed the committee release quite a lot back in March (WF 88). Let’s see if around 9 less degrees will make a difference. Colour: gold. Nose: there is a feeling of new American oak, with this vanilla, but we’re below the limits. I remember I had tried the two components of the popular Ten a while back at the distillery, one was ex-refill bourbon, the other ex-first fill. We’re closer to the latter here, and once again, I do not get much sherry, let alone ‘dark’ sherry. A little crème brulée, perhaps, and then whiffs of ginger and nutmeg from the wood, before more coastal and – of course – smoky notes start to rise to your nostrils. Triple-sec as well. And bandages. Feels a little sweet, pleasantly so. Mouth: indeed, it is a little sweet, with a citrusy blast at first, then some ginger and plenty of ashes, then a touch of salty tar. Perhaps a little rubbery ginger (or gingery rubber) before it gets even saltier. It’s not the most complex Ardbeg ever, this is no 1960s or 1970s distillate, but as they say in mail order, it does deliver. Finish: long and rather more nutmeggy/gingery. Typical young Ardbeg aftertaste, as if you had just chewed a rubber band. Comments: it feels young and sometimes a little rough, but we haven’t got anything against young whisky. SGP:467 - 86 points.

So, other young Islays? How about a gentler one, and then a beastlier one, both at roughly the same strengths and ages? Is that coherent enough for you?

Caol Ila 7 yo 2008/2016 (46%, Càrn Mòr, Strictly Limited, hogshead, 760 bottles)

I am not, no need to say this, suggesting Ardbeg Dark Cove is seven years of age. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: huge differences. This has much less wood (and vanilla, coconut, ginger, and tutti quanti), and many more fruits, starting with some big and bold notes of freshly cut pears. Bags of them. It’s only after two or three minutes that the coastalness and the light smoke come out, both quite gracefully I have to say. Perhaps a little chlorine as well, iodine, fresh oysters… It’s lovely, but perhaps a little immature, as I also get a little varnish and acetone. Just wee whiffs. Mouth: excellent, bright, fresh, ‘nervous’, tart, salty, smoky… In fact, I find it extremely salty, even saltier than the saltiest batches of Bowmore (when they used to roll the barrels in the loch from the distillery to the puffers – pure hearsay, of course). We’re almost in white mezcal territories here. Once again, immaturity has its upsides. Finish: long, sharp like a blade, and rather immaculate. Less citrus than usual. Comments: some aspects reminded me of the new Lagavulin 8. Excellent! I also find this young CI peatier than usual. Indeed, a blade. SGP:368 - 88 points.

It’s going to be tough to find a punchier young peat monster at 46% vol., but you see, we’ve got good friends…

Port Ellen 10 yo 1981/1992 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection)

As you probably know, this used to be Cadenhead’s budget series. But quality could be high, and nevertheless, it’s always a thrill to be able to taste young PE. A thrill that’s getting rarer by the year, while the older casks now tend to become less, say ‘bright’. Colour: white wine. Nose: well, what it’s got is this superb almondy/tarry profile that’s so very Port Ellen. We’re talking fresh almonds and apple peel, plus linseed oil and plasticine. How very PE indeed. The peat doesn’t sing high yet, but these hints of long-forgotten oils and washes are simply impressive. It’s what the Ardbeg Dark Cove may become after… 25 years of bottle aging ;-). Mouth: a perfect, well-chiselled, tarry peatiness, with some smoked salmon and bags of various ashes (wood, coal, peat) before more and more green pepper starts to make it really bigger. And acrid, in a good way. Perhaps ideas of fish oils as well, this is clearly coastal. What’s also sure is that it’s less easy and ‘immediate’ than both the Ardbeg and the Caol Ila, and that it tends to become even saltier than the latter. What a beast, and what a distillate. And no, while we’re at it, they have not obligatorily closed PE because it was ‘less good’ than Lagavulin and Caol Ila, contrarily to what some ‘smarter’ people will tell you. There were other issues, such as a lower efficiency, or not enough expandability, or environmental matters… Finish: long and perfect. Strongly smoked salmon and cigar ashes. Comments: many very young PEs were bottled at 40% or 43%, such as Signatory’s (and they were great). This one packs more punch, and should you want to try it, you may drive to Fiddler’s in Drumnadrochit and bring a case of Speyburn with you. Some magic may happen… Oh and something else, I believe these versions at 46% were rather better than the ones at cask strength (you know, 65% vol. and such). A budget series, he said. SGP:268 - 92 points.

PS: what would be totally great would be that Ardbeg issued some purely ex-refill young babies from time to time. But maybe that’s only my own obsession…

(And gracias again, Jon!)