February 9, 2016

New Benromach 1980 (I suppose)

I know I’m sometimes late, and I sure am today, since many blogs have already commented on the new Benromach 35. Time to catch up the delay! With regards to the sparring partner, I had thought we could have an old G&M, but those could be relatively ‘light’, so better have a recent beast, for some better foundations. Such as this baby…

Benromach 10 yo '100° proof' (57%, OB, +/-2015)

Colour: gold. Nose: definitely modern, with quite a lot of ginger and vanilla, then these very singular whiffs of gunpowder that are not ‘sulphury’ at all – let’s say it’s a different kind of gunpowder – and ‘good’ notes of cabbage and artichokes. A lot of walnuts too, bitter oranges… We’re almost nosing some manzanilla. Which, no need to say, is right up my alley. With water: correction, a smoky manzanilla. And always this pleasant sulphur that’s not quite like (unpleasant) sulphur. Mouth: same procedures, starts full of gingery and vanilla-ed oak, but rather develops on grassy, peppery, rather rustic notes of artichokes and bitter chocolate. Plus, naturally, quite some soot and bitter oranges. Thick mouth feel. With water: bitter oranges, pepper, ginger, green tea. Serious, potent stuff. Finish: long, peppery, drying – like cocoa can be drying – and rather leathery. Comments: I do prefer them with a little less active/extractive oak, but on the other hand, I’m a fan of this biggish distillate, so… SGP:463 - 87 points.

Benromach 35 yo (43%, OB, 2016)

Good, this baby wouldn’t tell its vintage, BUT a leaflet says that it was ‘laid down to mature in the 1980s’. I suppose the vatting was done last year, so that means that it must be some 1980, unless the casks were disgorged in 2016, which means that there could be some 1981 as well. Doesn’t that make sense, Watson? So in theory, it could be the same juice as that of the 30 yo from circa 2011, which wouldn’t be bad news (WF 90). But enough speculation, let’s try this new baby… Colour: deep gold. Nose: instant pleasures. A beehive in the midst of summer, some fresh apple juice, and very discreet touches of mustard, or perhaps horseradish. Let’s go a little further, that would be beeswax, heather honey, pollen, artisan cider, and yes, horseradish (smidgens), then hints of old books, furniture polish, and orange zests. All this is very lovely, both compact and complex. Forgot to mention walnuts. Mouth: starts bitter like old style manzanilla (indeed, again – that’s pasada) and raw cocoa powder, plus walnuts yet again, and bitter oranges. This bitter style is something that I enjoy a lot, this baby could be seen as the most complex form of Jaegermeister. Yes, in a way. Keeps unfolding on various dry herbs (thyme) and even more walnuts, with an ashy smokiness that’s also very ‘Benromach’. The oak tends to come to the front, but it would come with quite a lot of tobacco, Habana-style. And some pepper too. It’s also a case where the 43% are not a problem at all. Finish: long, herbal, with some dry mint, some bitter oranges, and quite a lot of cinnamon. The lovely old oak has got the last word. Comments: very excellent as such, but also singular, and different from any other old malt. That’s clearly a tremendous asset, when many whiskies – unless peated - tend to taste more or less the same. Vanilla? Who mentioned vanilla? SGP:372 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Benromach I've tasted so far