
April 3, 2016

More malternative rhums from
La Martinique

Let’s have more of these highly regulated rhums that, I think, we should support since they have to ‘fight’ against many other rums that are bearing fake age statements and appellations. Between a fake 23 years old and a genuine 10 yo that’s actually much older than the former, both at the same price, which will the average Joe purchase?

HSE 2004/2012 ‘Small Cask’ (46%, OB, Martinique, agricole)

HSE aka Habitation Saint-Etienne have been pushing hard for quite some years, and have probably the concept that’s closest to Scotch whisky. In this case, they’ve used French oak ‘octaves’ (55l casks). Colour: deep amber. Nose: starts with obvious varnishy notes that do remind me of Buffalo Trace a lot, before it would rather unfold on vanilla, coconut, and oranges. Even if it’s French oak, this baby really noses like high-end bourbon. Consequently, it’s not very ‘rhum’, but I enjoy this nose. Mouth: very good, full of ‘good sweet oak’, banana, vanilla, more coconut, gingerbread, tangerines… A very oily texture, but this fatness works well since we also have citrus. Finish: long and spicier, Cinnamon cake, orange cake, more gingerbread, a touch of strawberry liqueur… And there, sugar cane juice in the aftertaste. Perhaps a little too much oak. Comments: it may be a little ‘engineered’, or ‘designed’, but it’s totally well made. SGP:561 - 83 points.

J. Bally 2002 (43%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2013)

Some ups and some downs in my book for Bally’s latest vintages. For example, loved the 1998, but found the 2000 a little weak. Colour: dark gold. Nose: rather dry and herbal, much less aromatic and expressive than the HSE, but perhaps more elegant, and certainly fresher. Some plums and touches of cane sugar, a little tar that’s sometimes to be found in the agricoles, and a very pleasant gingery side. A little walnut wine as well. Very fine nose. Mouth: excellent! Some tequila in the arrival, and even ‘ideas’ of rye, then rather white pepper and tinned litchis. That’s an unusual combo, but it’s fresh all along, and even kind of refreshing. After five minutes, perhaps bay leaves and perhaps cloves, and even speculoos. Finish: medium, and spicier. Cointreau, ginger, cinnamon, Szechuan pepper… Comments: a very complex and subtle proposition. SGP:552 - 85 points.

Rhum J.M 2003 (46.3%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2014)

A 10 years old of high reputation, excellent year after year – not that I tried many of them, sadly, but once we start to focus on proper malternatives only, be sure we will! Colour: amber. Nose: we’re somewhere between the HSE and the Bally, with lots of aromatics but also some self-restraint that’s most welcome. Superb fresh pineapples, praline, cane juice, then rather cardamom and coriander, plus many dried fruits (Corinth raisins, dates) and a little toffee. A touch of coffee. Mouth: starts spicy, with even more coriander and cardamom, and rather goes on with Seville oranges and liquorice, pinesap, cough syrup, and then more pineapple jam with hints of chilli. One should try to cook chicken in this. Finish: rather long, on sweet liquorice and more oranges. A little caramel in the aftertaste. Comments: love all this liquorice that feels all natural. Some perfect rhum agricole, just a wee touch oaky, perhaps. SGP:651 - 87 points.

Depaz ‘Cuvée Prestige’ (45%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2015)

A middle-aged rhum distilled from blue cane juice. Which is more or less the absolute opposite of molasses. Now I haven’t tried many Depaz, but I don’t think it’s my favourite Martiniquan. Things may change… Colour: amber. Nose: I may have been wrong. Indeed, this nose works very well, with rather more phenolic and even olive-y notes than in the others. A bit of tar as well, even some brine, then liquorice, cedar wood, tobacco… In short, a Martiniquan that’s got its eye on Jamaica at times. Mouth: less so on the palate, this is classic agricole, with jams and soft spices and a good deal of sugar cane. Raisins, roasted peanuts, cinnamon, tobacco… Finish: medium, with more liquorice on pineapple jam and cigars. Cinnamon cake and orange zests in the aftertaste. Baklavas. Comments: I find this one excellent, it’s my favourite Depaz. This far! SGP:651 - 85 points.

La Mauny ‘Extra Saphir’ (40%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2014)

A rather expensive deluxe cuvee gathering rhums from 8 to 15 years of age. Sadly bottled at only 40% vol. La Mauny’s not my favourite Martiniquan, I usually find it a little too easy (some would say too commercial) but I really enjoyed their white ‘Ter Rouj’ earlier this year. Colour: amber. Nose: the least aromatic of them all, but it’s got nice touches of overripe bananas and marzipan. A little fudge, yellow flowers, and honey. Really rather light, some kind of Glenlivet of the agricoles. But things may change on our palate… Mouth: easy and smooth, fruity, with tropical fruit liqueurs and jams. First pineapples, then papayas and bananas. Some honey too, but there’s no fatness. Perhaps a wee tad too smooth and sweet for an agricole, but that’s just a personal opinion. Finish: not very long, sweet and fruity (liquorice allsort), with more oak, especially cinnamon, in the aftertaste. Comments: a little lack of oomph, and indeed it’s a tad too ‘easy-easy’ for me, as expected, but quality’ certainly high. SGP:641 - 80 points.

Check the index of all Rum I've tasted so far

More malternative rhums from La Martinique

More malternative rhums from
La Martinique