
May 17, 2016

More blended malts because this is 2016

Question of the day, between a disclosed single malt that wouldn’t tell you about its age, and an undisclosed one or even a blended malt that does, what’s the most trustworthy? Yeah, I agree, it all depends on who’s behind it. The two first ones are good examples of trustworthy bottlings, since they do not sport any of those seminal notions, only ‘good names’.

Enlightenment (46%, Compass Box, blended malt, 5,922 bottles, 2016)

A name that sounds like some John Coltrane, how could we be against that? No ages given this time (remember the recent controversy) but we still know that this baby contains 48.2% Clynelish… And the remainder just doesn’t matter. I’m joking, it also contains 36.7% Glentauchers, 10.8% Balblair, and 4.3% Mortlach. This is pure class, and remember Imelda Marcos’ famous quote, “after all, the mass follows class. Class never follows mass.” Don’t tell me you’d have preferred some Wittgenstein! Colour: white wine. Nose: I understand what they’ve tried to do, a lighter, fruitier, more consensual Clynelish. And they succeeded. Much freshness, wheelbarrows of golden delicious apples, a lot of wisteria, and a waxiness that’s much closer to beeswax than to plasticine. Is it being a sexist if you say that it’s got a feminine side? Which is, no need to say, a compliment? Mouth: it’s rather punchy, zesty, slightly mentholated for a start, before it starts to unfold on more acidic apples, gooseberries, white currants, and perhaps a touch of pineapple. This time, Clynelish’s wax got a little shier, I’m not sure I’d have recognised it. Finish: medium, fresh, fruity, with more grassiness. Comments: very good vatting, but I’m not sure I don’t prefer some excellent single Clynelish, Balblair, Glentauchers, or Mortlach. Or maybe am I missing a few drops of Laphroaig? Otherwise yeah, I find it extremely good. SGP:551 - 86 points.

The Whisky Agency 'Extra Old' (44.7%, The Whisky Agency, blended malt, sherry, 2015)

What does Extra Old or XO mean? In Cognac that means that the youngest component is at least six years old. But in this very case, that’s probably older… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s a firm, pleasantly rubbery and grassy start that we’re experiencing, before more and more walnuts and hazelnuts would join in the dancing, together with some marmalade and ‘dry’ raisins. Also whiffs of exhaust pipe, brake pad ‘after Monaco’, and used matches. Reminds me of some sherried Macduffs and Tamdhus that we’ve seen in recent years here and there. Mouth: those garage-y notes remain, with more struck matches and ‘hot brakes’, but I’m also finding some walnut cake and some praline. I enjoy the bitterish and earthy tea notes in the background very much. Finish: long, but appeased and gentler. But there is quite some leather and tobacco in the aftertaste. Comments: for lovers of this style, that sometimes also reminds us of some sherried Mortlachs. Oh let’s not start to play the guessing game… (you did, S.!) SGP:471 - 86 points.

Siar Port 18 yo 1997/2015 (46%, Murray McDavid, blended malt, 685 bottles)

Only two malts, matured in bourbon and finished in sherry. Colour: white wine. No fist fill sherry involved. Nose: in the style of the Enlightenment, with a fresh orchardy fruitiness coated with custard and light honey, which actually makes it a tad rounder. No sherry that I can detect. Some sides remind me of ex-bourbon Aberlour, but I’m sure I’m wrong. Apples, pears, touches of bananas, acacia honey… In truth, this could as well be Balblair. Mouth: immaculate malty fruitiness, with some apple crumble, Ovaltine, butterscotch, shortbread, Weetabix, and drops of maple syrup from two years ago (when they get darker). Total malty goodness. Finish: medium, always very malty, with touches of lemon that, once again, lift it a bit. Nice fresh signature, but the aftertaste remains very malty. Comments: imagine some friends asking you ‘how does malt whisky taste?’ You may pour this. SGP:551 - 86 points.

We could have an older one…

Royal Mile Whiskies 40 yo (47.1%, Royal Mile Whiskies, blended malt, 337 bottles, 2015)

A vatting of Glenrothes, Macallan, and Tamdhu. What could have gone wrong? On the one hand, many flavours may overlap between these three malts, but on the other hand, some coherence may have been obtained, let’s see… Colour: dark gold. Nose: very complex, and not tired. Roasted chestnuts and maple syrup for a start, then chocolate and praline, then toasted brioche and warm croissant, then some pipe tobacco, without any obvious pencil shavings or other undesirable oaky tones. A little wood smoke though. And far away in the distance, the usual marmalade and raisins. Mouth: excellent and lovable. It’s more or less a blend of various honeys with a little Sauternes, or better yet, straw wine from Jura. Then some leafy tea, some tobacco, and once again a little marmalade that keeps it appropriately fruity. The oak’s a little more obvious this time, but we’re rather around cinnamon cake than straight planks or chips. Really excellent. Finish: medium, clean, never oaky as such, rather on dried figs and dates. When is Christmas this year? Oranges in the aftertaste. Comments: we’re bordering the 90 points. Great blended malt. SGP:651 - 89 points.

(Many thanks, Phil and Simon!)

Check the index of all blended malts I've tasted so far