January 3, 2016

Malternatives, today Armagnac again

This is our first malternative session of the year 2016, so let’s make it all Armagnacqy. We won’t only select old glories this time, but there will be some, if all goes well. Allez, Montjoie Saint Denis ! En avant!...

Domaine de Labadie 'Blason Noir' (40%, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2013)

Some very young Armagnac, around 4 or 6 years old depending on the websites ;-). So this is either ***/V.S. (two years or more) or V.S.O.P (five years or more), or better yet, X.O. (six years). While we’re at it, Hors d’Âge means that the youngest eau-de-vie in a blend is at least ten years old. Well, that’s the theory, because the makers seem to use these appellation rather loosely, often down-aging their bottlings. And so, while this Labadie is N.A.S., most Armagnacs are not totally N.A.S. Do you follow me? Colour: gold. Nose: fresh, young, rather grassy, and rough. You feel it’s not totally mature, there are sharp edges. Other than that, there are whiffs of tinned pineapples, raisins, worm brioche, yeast, and fruit stones, with this almondy side. Mouth: same roughness, this is not polished Armagnac – and neither is it polite. A little soapy, perhaps, acrid… Notes of very young calvados, pears... Finish: medium, bitter, grassy. Comments: we needed a stepping stone ;-). SGP:260 - 60 points.

Clos Martin 8 yo 'VSOP' (40%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, Folle Blanche, +/-2013)

A good example of a down-aged Armagnac, since at 8 years of age, they could as well have called it XO if I’m not mistaken. Colour: gold. Nose: another world, although there’s a little varnish and nail polish remover this time. But this mocha, the black raisins, the faint tar, the walnuts, the hints of gewürztraminer and roses (it’s quite floral indeed, with also lilies of the valley), and then the cedar wood make it quite lovely. Patchouli. Mouth: it’s not that it’s a smooth and polished Armagnac either, and indeed it’s quite brutal spirit, as many young Armagnacs can be, but I find it more satisfying, with walnuts again, burnt bread, something slightly ashy and drying… And grassy. Finish: medium, grassy, a little pungent. Oakier aftertaste. Comments: a whole different world, but you have to like them raw and grassy. SGP:361 - 77 points.

And now a Hors d’Âge…

Château de Lassalle 'Hors d'Âge' (44%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2013)

This one’s more than 12 years of age. The domaine is owned by the Baroness of Pampelonne. We had a good 1979 two years ago. Colour: dark amber. Nose: ah, now we’re talking. Much more depth, fatness, raisinness, more precious woods, more old calvados, old Sauternes, some rancio, dried apricots, fudge, vanilla, a touch of liquorice… This one has something to say! Mouth: very punchy and extractive, with an obvious varnishy side at first sips, then this feeling of thick-skinned green apples and pears, so certainly some tannins, and then more tobaccos of various sorts. Behind that, more apples and pears, as well as greengages, but it’s globally dry, and never quite sweet. Finish: long, very green and tannic, but in a way, that works. Armagnac for your hipflask. Comments: an Armagnac with a very strong presence. A bit unpolished again, perhaps, although the casks were seemingly very active. SGP:461 - 82 points.

And an AS…

Darroze 20 yo ‘Les Grands Assemblages’ (43%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2015)

I’ll always remember the great 50 yo in this series (WF 93). Colour: dark amber. Nose: a little shier than the Lassalle, perhaps a little dustier too, but there are beautiful whiffs of green tea and perhaps soft curry powder in the background. Cocoa powder, chestnuts. Not extremely aromatic, to say the least, neither is it very fruity, although it does open up a bit after almost thirty minutes. Mouth: quite dry again, perhaps a little acidic, but otherwise finely fruity, on stewed peaches and apricots. Some raisins and some caramel, a little toffee, some tannins. Bites a bit. Finish: quite long, softer and rounder, which is unusual in a finish. Candy sugar, Brighton rocks, these things… Comments: there wasn’t a lot happening in the nose, while the palate was rather more expressive. Good, of course, as anything from Darroze. SGP:451 - 81 points.

Time for some vintages!...

Domaine de Pouchégu 27 yo 1986/2013 (45%, OB, Armagnac, K&L Exclusive, USA)

Some Armagnac that flew back to France from California, how cool is that? This is pure baco from a very small producer in Castelnau-d'Auzan near Eauze. Colour: deep amber. Nose: this if fuller, both rounder and deeper, starting with some chocolated coffee (or the other way ‘round), and cigarette tobacco, before many tiny whiffs of dried flowers and herbs start to add more complexity. Lime tree blossom and wormwood, for example. Then come sandalwood, thuja wood, walnut bread, and raisins stewed in peach juice. It’s a perfect nose! I’m afraid our American friends know more about Armagnac than us Frenchmen! Mouth: absolutely delicious, with a bright fruitiness that makes this arrival as fresh as possible given this baby’s age. Williams pears, peaches, a touch of tropicalness (mangos?)… Develops rather on more oak spices, cinnamon, caraway, liquorice wood, then toffee and, perhaps, pistachio halva. That’s very good. Finish: long, a little more oak-forward, but also with funny touches of mirabelle eau-de-vie. Comments: very high-class, both polished and slightly rustic, as Armagnac should be according to some experts – but not everyone agrees on that part. SGP:552 - 90 points.

Domaine de Roumegoux 1970/1991 (52.4%, OB, Bas-Armagnac)

An other small producer, from the Landes d’Armagnac. This is an old bottle, let’s see if bottle ageing did impact this baby. Positively, of course. Colour: deep amber. Nose: what happened. This is almost exactly the same spirit as the Pouchégu, only more powerful because of the higher strength. Bizarre, isn’t it? Perhaps a wee tad more oranges? Perhaps not. With water: no, they’re a little different. This one has a little more menthol, liquorice, green walnuts, and camphor now, which is not something I find bad. Mouth (neat): indeed, once again, we’re close, but this one really bursts with passion fruits and grapefruits after just three seconds. And pears. With water: very good, more raisiny, fresh… And the peaches are back. Peaches in syrup. Finish: rather long, a little more candied and prune-y, but it remains fresh. More pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps just a tad less ‘immediate’ than the Pouchégu. Not always an asset as such, but well… SGP:551 - 89 points.

Château de Flarambel 1965/2015 (41.9%, OB for The Auld Alliance Singapore, Ténarèze, 12 magnums only)

This rare Ténarèze was bottled to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Singapore. Only in magnums! The definition of panache if you ask me. Colour: very dark amber. Nose: glazed chestnuts and prunes dominate at first nosing, before a little polished oak and hints of spent lees kick in. And, then there’s a true mentholy cavalcade (a touch of turpentine, some mint, eucalyptus, terpene…) and lovely whiffs of old wood, old wine cellar, a little saltpetre and wet chalk… What’s funny is that some coffee starts to appear, and that after fifteen minutes, you’d almost almost believe this is some old sherried whisky. Mouth: feels much stronger than just 41.9%! Bags of old walnuts in the arrival, then plenty of chocolate, an unexpected touch of red pepper, then Seville oranges, blackcurrants, and more glazed chestnuts. No, this is not a Pauillac ;-). Finish: rather long, a tad more peppery, with a little tamarind coulis, perhaps. Comments: a great example of an old Armagnac that became rather ‘different’ after fifty years of aging. I find it rather exceptional, to tell you the truth, not only because of that. Too bad there are, or rather were, only 12 magnums. SGP:562 - 91 points.

(Thanks a lot Angus, Emmanuel, Steve)