
May 29, 2016

Malternative rums from Guadeloupe

… And from Marie-Galante, that tiny island south of the island of La Guadeloupe. There are several famous distilleries and brands in Guadeloupe and Marie-Galante, such as Bologne, Montebello, Longueteau, Séverin, Damoiseau, Bielle, Bellevue… In general, despite many exceptions, rhums from Guadeloupe – let alone Marie-Galante – are said to be a little wilder than those of sister island La Martinique. Let’s have a few more or less at random…

Père Labat 3 ans (42%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2015)

A well-know and well-respected brand by Distillerie Poisson. Loved their 8 yo a few years back (WF 86). Colour: white wine (mega-great-news). Nose: exceptional at first nosing, totally on cane juice and crushed bananas, then tiny touches of black olives, marzipan, honeysuckle, ripe blood oranges, peonies, pinesap, liquorice, fruit salad… An amazing complexity at such a young age. The liquorice tends to take over after a few minutes, but we love liquorice, so… Mouth: a big personality despite a little too much sweetness for my taste. Candy sugar, papayas, bananas, overripe mangos… The phenolic/grassy touches, as well as the liquorice, are a bit slow on the uptake, but quality’s definitely high. And let’s remember it’s a 3 yo. Finish: medium, more on cane juice again. A little green coffee, perhaps, and a drop of pastis in the aftertaste. After all, this is France. Comments: quite brilliant, just a bit of the expensive side given its age (60-65 euros). SGP:652 - 84 points.

Karukera ‘Rhum Vieux Agricole’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, +/-2015)

An agricole, obviously, made by Distillerie de l’Espérance aka Longueteau. It’s said to be around 3 years old as well. Colour: deep gold. Nose: more aromatic, more emphatic than the Père Labat, with more overripe tropical fruits (mangos, papayas, bananas) and more vanilla, fennel, oranges, and cloves/caraway. It’s a fatter rhum agricole, much more demonstrative. Mouth: very creamy, rich, feeling stronger than 42% vol., with a large bowl of citrus jams, from oranges to pink grapefruits, and many sweet spices. Caraway again, ginger, vanilla pods, then rather some kind of liquorice-flavoured maple syrup, a little burnt sugar… Spectacular, never stuffy, extremely pleasant and easy, despite the huge body. Finish: long, with more muscovado sugar, touches of nutmeg… Comments: they are very different, the Labat being fresher and grassier, but I like them just the same. Quite a lot. SGP:742 - 84 points.

Perhaps a Longueteau from the same distillery?

Longueteau ‘VSOP’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, +/-2015)

Around 6 years old, matured in ex-Cognac casks. Colour: full gold. Nose: even more, yeah, emphatic than the Karukera, and perhaps a little too much now. Noses like a pina colada, with a lot of pineapple and coconut, which is very sexy in itself, but also a little, say vulgar. In the background, some vanilla and liquorice. Touches of varnish over everything. Extremely spectacular, but perhaps overly spectacular. Mouth: indeed, this is very rich, a little too oaky for me, jammy and gritty at the same time, with raisins and bananas. Finish: long, luscious, rich, round. Liquorice and dried bananas. Comments: I’m sure this is extremely good, but I liked the less ‘body-built’ Karukera much better. SGP:751 - 79 points.

Damoiseau ‘VSOP Réserve Spéciale’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, +/-2015)

This one’s a 4 years old, made in Distillerie Bellevue, which is not the same as Marie-Galante’s Distillerie Bellevue. Can be confusing when buying some ‘Bellevue’ from the indies. Colour: gold. Nose: a rather drier style again, without the wham-bam fruitiness from the Longueteau, although I do find some pineapples again. Bags of oranges as well, which gives it a very fresh style, most easy and likeable. Mouth: fresh and fruity, perhaps a little simple and without a lot of cane-y flavours – let alone phenols and all that. Easy bananas, papayas, vanilla, candy sugar, roasted peanuts, and a touch of honey. Finish: medium, very easy, and relatively light. Pleasant fruitiness. Comments: real easy and uncomplicated. SGP:641 - 79 points.

Domaine de Séverin ‘XO’ (45%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, +/-2015)

Agreed, we should have had their VSOP but we already tried it last year – and loved it (WF 86). The XO is a six years old matured in US oak. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s a bit like the Longueteau, bursting with fruits and flowers, but I’m finding it a little more complex and elegant. Rather flowers than vanilla, if you like. Honeysuckle, lime blossom… It’s also a little camphory/medicinal, which is just perfect. Mouth: I find this extremely good, big, rich, herbal… Some honeydew, some cinnamon, some ripe oranges, some sugar cane, a drop of eucalyptus oil, an obvious phenolic side… Excellent! Du they use a dunder pit at Séverin? (of course they don’t!) Finish: long, perfect, complex, fruity, herbal, tarry, mentholy… Comments: one of the ‘Jamaican’ Guadeloupeans. Malt lovers will love it (hint, hint). SGP:552 - 88 points.

Good, we’ve had a fair selection… No, wait, there’s Bielle!...

Bielle 2006 (42%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2015)

Bielle had a totally stunning 2007 cask strength (brut de fût) last year (WF 90). This one should be gentler… Colour: gold. Nose: Bielle is THE malternative from the French West Indies, and this nose explains you why. Perfect camphor, mint, eucalyptus, toasted pastries, custard, liquorice, earth, tar, brine, bananas… It tells you many stories (involving quite a few drunken sailors!) Mouth: it holds its sugarcane tight when it tangos. So indeed, we’re close to sugar cane, and despite a few sweeter and more ‘mundane’ notes (syrups), the grassy structure keeps it tight and focussed. Now the nose was ‘better’, the palate’s a little less entrancing. Gritty raisins (feeling of marc de Bourgogne – I must be dreaming). Finish: rather long, really grassier. Pink grapefruits in the aftertaste. Comments: high class, even if ‘something’ was a bit disturbing on the palate. These grapy notes, perhaps. SGP:562 - 85 points.

Rhum Rhum 'Liberation 2015' (45%, Velier, Marie-Galante, agricole, 2015)

Now a 6 years old, bottled in 2015. It was distilled at Bielle but using Velier’s own set of stills, conducted by one of the Mozarts of distilling, maestro Capovilla. Apologies, one of the VIvaldis of distilling. Mind you, 6 years in the Tropics, that’s already XO quality. Colour: full gold. Nose: a gun that just shot (yes I’ve been in the army), cigars, cinnamon cake, bananas, gingerbread, bicycle inner tube, apricot jam, hay, horse saddle, peach jam. Not very ‘rhum’, you say? You’re right, this is metanoic spirit. Mouth: big, starting a little bitter (green tannins) but that’s no problem, and going on with some plantain, marzipan, salsify and Jerusalem artichokes, ginger, cinnamon, and then a sweeter side, with apricots and raisins again. This was some oak! Active French oak? Finish: long, perhaps a little pungent and bitter? I for one enjoy this herbal dryness in rum. Funny salty aftertaste. Comments: some active wood has been in use, so this is not totally distillate-driven, but what’s sure is that it’s totally malternative. SGP:462 - 86 points.

And now the possible grande finale…

Müller LL IV/3177 (59%, Habitation Velier, Marie-Galante, agricole, 2015)

Müller is the name of the still(s). It’s like if the Scots would call their whiskies ‘Forsyth’, if you like. It’s a set of two pot-stills fitted with columns, as far as I can tell. The letters and figures in the name are just the ‘license plate’ of that set of stills, which are also used to make the ‘Rhum Rhum’ at Bielle. What’s funny is that they reduced it (not much, mind you, 59% vol.) using rainwater. Something that the Scots could do as well, given their pluviometry over there ;-). Colour: white. So, unaged. Nose: we’re entering clairin/mezcal/artisan cachaça territories. It’s a very ‘vertical’ spirit, with scents of lupin and lilies that are not often to be found elsewhere, then rather plantains indeed and this natural rubber that’s also to be found in the Rhum Rhum. With water: the green phenols come out. French beans and linseed oil, plus a touch of turpentine. Mouth (neat): sugarcane eau-de-vie, and indeed you cannot not think of some pot-still distilled aguardientes. Green olives and green bananas. With water: a sweeter side comes out. Cane sugar, limejuice, a wee bit of ham –which should go away with ageing. Finish: medium, rather fresh, more lemony. Notes of that very mild chilli we have in southern France, called piment d’Espelette – or Espelette pepper. Not even sure it’s chilli, to tell you the truth. The ham is back in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, but perhaps more for high-end cocktails, Herr Müller. SGP:472 - 82 points.

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far