
July 26, 2016

Little duets, today Ledaig 36 years apart

There are young Ledaigs at many indies’, and believe me, the latters are almost all right (only a few feinty duds), as Ledaig’s the new Ardbeg, in my humble opinion. Which doesn’t mean that Ardbeg’s the old Ledaig, eh! Let’s choose one almost at random…

Ledaig 7 yo 2008/2016 (60.3%, Signatory Vintage for Le Gus’t, France, first fill bourbon, cask #700751, 312 bottles)

Ledaig 7 yo 2008/2016 (60.3%, Signatory Vintage for Le Gus’t, first fill bourbon, cask #700751, 312 bottles)

Bottled for good and passionate people in the south of France, in Manosque, where they’re experts in pastis – and in whisky. Colour: straw. Nose: it reminds me of the first ‘new’ Ten by Ardbeg indeed. Remember, ‘introducing 10 years old’… A tarry sootiness, hessian, tarry ropes, seaweed, oysters... With water: ‘nosing’ a pile of new magazines at any airport or train station. Lovely notes of soot and metal polish too. Mouth (neat): excellent. Some almondy and lemony smoke, ultra-zesty, clean, Sancerre-y (oh come on), and almondy. It reminds me of that kind of almond-scented glue we had at school in the 1960s. Indeed, that sort of dates us, doesn’t it. With water: perfect. Lemon, almonds, smoked fish, salt, and more lemon. Finish: perfectly chiselled, impeccable, fat yet lively and bright… Comments: totally Ardbeggian indeed. Of course there are (minor) differences… SGP:358 - 89 points.

But we need an older one now, one from the legendary vintages… Perhaps this baby?...

Ledaig 24 yo 1972/1997 (49.8%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #42.8)

THE vintage, not unlike at many other distilleries. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s funny that we’re finding this soot/almonds combination again, and while this is rather more complex, I wouldn’t say it’s in an entirely different league, although the expected tropical fruits, ala old Laphroaig this time, do make a difference. Perfect maracuja and mangos, at times you’d think you’re nosing one of those stunning old Laphroaig 10s. The whole remains pretty subtle, very elegant, and kind of ‘whispering’. Sometimes it’s bad manners to speak loudly, even if you’re some legendary old malt whisky. Mouth: ooooh… aaaaah… but this is glorious! Astounding smoke/tropics combo, seen in older Laphroaigs indeed. Lemons and passion fruits plus oysters and kippers, and all that sings in unison, it’s not just a compilation of lovely flavours. You may want to call the anti-maltoporn brigade before it’s too late… Finish: medium to long, ashier and sootier, with a little chlorophyll, bitter green tea, and lime while we’re going green. Comments: it’s one of the mysteries of malt whisky, why did the best peaters from the 1960s and early 1970s go very ‘tropical’ after a few years? What was the trick, which was the yeast, were there special aromatic precursors? Another intriguing case of quasi-esoteric malty transmutation… SGP:656 - 93 points.

We’ll have many more Ledaigs in the near future. And I mean many…

(With thanks to Carsten)

Check the index of all Ledaig I've tasted so far