March 14, 2016

Independent Auchentoshan

We’re currently seeing more Auchentoshan at the indies, which is cool because they tend to have them rather more ‘natural’, and with rather less ‘vanilla and wine’ than the owners. Which is, by the way, a trend we’re noticing elsewhere as well (HP, Bowmore, Laphroaig…), as if the officials just couldn’t leave their whiskies alone.

Auchentoshan 1998/2015 ‘Fruit Burst’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, barrel, 307 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: light rum and limoncello, plus just a faint soapy touch in the background. Then rather the expected bonbons and marshmallows, before it starts to become rather grassier and a bit sharper. Mouth: I know some girls who keep playing with vodka, that is to say adding various ‘stuff’ to it to flavour it. Bubblegum, sweets, god knows what else… It’s a bit the feeling I’m having just now, some ethanol flavoured with candies. It’s not unpleasant, but it’s maybe not totally ‘malt whisky’. Is that only the triple distillation? Finish: a little short, and grassier again. This little soapiness is there as well, especially in the aftertaste. Comments: good not great, I’d say. And probably a little un-Wemyss in that sense. SGP:551 - 78 points.

Auchentoshan 23 yo 1992/2016 (45.2%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, 192 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: there’s a little more varnish, and even nail polish remover in this one, but that would go away, as (almost) usual. Then we have rather more grapefruits, this limoncello again, and a most pleasant mineral side, always welcome at WF Towers. Limestone, these sorts of things. Mouth: it is a little unusual, with this leather, patchouli, and perhaps pomegranate juice. There’s a note that’s a little weird, but I tend to like it. Chlorophyll-and-mint chewing-gum? Mild pu-erh? Overripe pears? Orange blossom water? Pretty singular, thus interesting, thus good. Yes, my world is simple. Finish: a little short, with once again some unusual notes. It’s a fruit that’s not very common in western countries, hard to in down. What could it be?... Oh, perhaps loquat? Yes, loquat! Comments: some good fun to be had with this rather unusual one. Seriously, it’s very good. SGP:541 - 86 points.

Auchentoshan 1992/2015 (50.7%, Sansibar for S Spirit Shop, bourbon, 119 bottles)

The samurai on the label seems to have digestive problems, if I may. Colour: straw. Nose: almost a copy of the Cadenhead, with only a notch less varnish at first nosing, and a little more moss and fresh walnuts. Which I enjoy just as much as mineral notes. With water: vanilla, moss, all-vitamin juice… Mouth (neat): more classic Auchentoshan this time. All citrus fruits of the creation, plus half an overripe apple and half a banana. A touch of smoked tea behind that, which makes it less of a fruit bomb. Excellent. Quite a lot of mossy and grassy limejuice. With water: truly excellent! Sweet lime juice and a touch of honey. Finish: same. Medium long. Comments: did I say this was excellent? Between 86 and 87, but yesterday has been a good day at WF Towers, so… SGP:541 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Auchentoshan I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback