
April 8, 2016

French whisky, for whom does the bell toll?

A few days ago, one could read in the British garbage press (sometimes – not always – a pleonasm) that “new research study has revealed that the French are the whisky-drinking world champions (right, you don’t need research, just check the SWA’s numbers) and some are predicting France could overtake Scotland and become global leaders in actually making the spirit too”. Mu-ha-ha. Or even that “France is planning to usurp Scotland’s reputation as the home of the world’s best whisky.” Yeah right, another plot theory, even the Monty Python on peyotl wouldn’t have thought about that one. And once we’re done with whisky, we’ll also tackle haggis, Aunt Bessie’s crab cakes, and of course Irn Bru – you read that here first!

Today's warring forces

Right, after so much stupidity, I think we could need a few pick-me-ups… And let’s make them French indeed.

Hepp (42%, OB, single malt, France, Alsace, +/-2016)

Whisky from my homeland made by Distillerie Hepp in Uberach – but they haven’t got anything to do with ‘Uberach’ the whisky, which is made by Distillerie Bertrand. Complicated? You’re right. Colour: pale gold. Nose: I’ve tried Hepp quite some years ago, and it seems that things have massively improved. Indeed this seems to be some light Lowland-style barleyish and orangey malt, displaying smooth vanilla and quite some peaches and apricots in syrup. Obvious target within the secret plot, overtaking Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie combined, around the year 2080. So far, so good. Mouth: light and fruity, akin to wood-matured hops eau-de-vie. Touches of juniper berries as well, a little sawdust, sucrose, vanilla… I think its lacking maltiness, and certainly body, but as they say in skiing, it goes down. Finish: short but rather clean, a little sugary. Comments: a nice endeavour, better than a kick in the teeth in any case. You may start to quiver with fear, Scotland! SGP:420 - 65 points.

Rouget de Lisle (42%, OB, pur malt, France, Jura, Macvin cask, cask #C008, 600 bottles, +/-2016)

This is not from the Isle of Jura Distillery, obviously, rather from the Jura region in France. This malt whisky was matured in Macvin casks, Macvin being a mixture of grape juice and eau-de-vie that some like to drink as an apéritif. The whole sounds a little unlikely, but after all, everything is ‘local’. By the way, Rouget de Lisle is the guy who composed the Marseillaise, which goes to prove that the French whisky makers have very belligerent intentions indeed. LOL! Colour: gold. Nose: but this is nice! It’s definitely got something Jura-ish, such as hints of walnut cake, before it would go on with some brioche, overripe apples and pears, and indeed a grapy side that’s most pleasant – for once! Also whiffs of blond tobacco and a little curry, very very nice. Mouth: weirder. It’s almost more marc du Jura matured in wood than straight malt whisky, with an earthy and grassy side, and even hints of lees. But I’m rather fond of marc du Jura, with is usually a little rougher and more rustic than marc de Bourgogne. Finish: rather short, on the same flavours. Comments: a very nice nose, a palate that’s more an acquired taste. And at least, it does taste ‘local’. SGP:441 - 70 points.

Bercloux (43.6%, OB, spirit drink, France, Charentes, batch #ACF1, 1144 bottles, 2015)

Not whisky yet, its too young. It’s made at the Distillerie de Bercloux not too far from Cognac (actually Saintes), using French barley that was malted at the château. Another proof that this is a sneaky attack on the Scots, since the Scots are using a lot of French barley as well. Yeah well… Colour: gold. Nose: certainly the maltiest of them all. Bread – always nice – plus ripe bananas and pears, that’s the song here. Moderate and rather elegant oakiness. Mouth: sure it is a little unlikely, combining sweets and oak spices, but there’s something that clicks. Pear drops, ale, sour dough, cinnamon and nutmeg, a touch of orange, a smidgen of cracked pepper…. Even if it tends to become a little too oaky for me, I find this very, say, friendly. Finish: medium, rather on oak spices and various leaves, including tobacco. Green pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: more ‘classic’ than the Jurassian, but qualities are similar in my opinion. SGP:341 - 70 points.

Kornog 'Taouarc'h Eilvet 15 BC' (46%, OB, France, Bretagne, bourbon, 2015)

I’m still wondering, do I prefer Gaelic or Breton on bottles of whisky? As everybody now knows, Kornog is the name of the peated Glann ar Mor. Their Port Charlotte, if you will, except that Glann ar Mor must be twenty times smaller than Bruichladdich. Colour: white wine. Nose: a very well-chiselled lemony and maritime peat smoke. I’d call it ‘crystalline peat’. Hints of hessian and seashells, but no tar and almost no medicinal side, which makes it rather less ‘Islay’ than earlier Kornogs. That’s certainly not for the worse. Also a little almond milk, seaside air… Mouth: very very good, as expected. Starts a little tropical (passion fruits, blood oranges), before it becomes saltier, with a medium peatiness. Lemon curd, shortbread, olive brine, almond peel, ashes… What’s funny is that it tends to become drier and ashier, over time, whilst the fruitiness decreases. Finish: medium to long, still crystalline, smoky, without any dirtiness. A touch of lemon sugar. The aftertaste is very ashy and rather bitter. Comments: excellent, as expected, only the finish of the finish was a little drying. No problems! SGP:547 - 88 points.

Scotland, ready yourself to go into combat! (in the meantime, we just need to build 10,000 other small French distilleries)…

Check the index of all whiskies of the world I've tasted so far