March 13, 2016

Dark rums on Sunday (oh sugar!)

Not my favourite category, as dark rums are usually heavily coloured and possibly further 'fiddled with' with various additives, sugar syrup, glycerine, and only God knows what else. But some good surprises could happen.

Arcane 12 yo 'Extraroma' (40%, OB, Mauritius, +/-2015)

This baby's wonderfully and lavishly packaged, but it's actually not very expensive at around 30€. It's been aged in a solera, which suggests it's actually much younger than 12. It's made out of cane juice, not molasses. Colour: amber - but it moves like oil. Nose: smells very sweet, with plenty of banana liqueur and sweet cumin syrup, then rather ginger liqueur. Nice, I think but not quite 'rum'. Linie aquavit. Mouth: very sweet. Toplexil and more banana liqueur, then rather high-honey gingerbread, and indeed ginger liqueur. Really not rum, rather a kind of liqueur indeed, but it's not an unpleasant liqueur. I'm sure my dear grandma would have loved it - but she would have consumed it as a 'canard', that is to say poured onto sugar cubes. Finish: short and sweet. More very sweet ginger and more bananas. Comments: more or less in the same category as Kraken or Don Papa. Or Grand-Marnier ;-). Not badly made at all, but it's the opposite of a proper malternative, I'd say. SGP:830 - 70 points.

Botran 'Solera 1893' (40%, OB, Guatemala, +/-2015)

Another scary solera-aged rum, but at least they haven't added a fake age statement. I hope no one believes there's some 1893 inside, even one drop. Colour: dark amber. Nose: starts with plenty of coffee and dark chocolate, and even a little wood smoke, reminding me of Cuba's best Santiagos. That's nice. Gets then more molassy, with some pipe tobacco as well, cedar wood, and a touch of burnt cake. So far, so nice, I don't find any 'distorted sweetness' so far. Mouth: it is sweeter than expected, sadly, but I feel we're below the limits of 'cloying sucrosity'. Pineapple syrup, plenty of vanilla, raisins, fudge and toffee, and touches of orange zest that keep it kind of straight. But don't expect any freshness from this style... Finish: medium, first more honeyed, then more caramelly, oaky, and toasted. Bananas flambéed and more oak in the aftertaste. Comments: fair sweet/oaky rum. Largely above its colleague Zacapa in my opinion. SGP:730 - 72 points.

While we're at it...

Botran '18' (40%, OB, Guatemala, +/-2015)

This is not 18 yo rum, they're using the same trick as Zacapa, it's actually 'Solera 18' (18 in big letters, solera in very small ones - but of course). And of course most websites and online retailers advertise it as a 18 yo. It's not us, it's them, your honour! Boo, but it could be good. Colour: dark amber. Nose: a drier, less aromatic, and even more chocolaty start, with plenty of dark toffee, some charcoal, then some praline. Drier and nicer. Mouth: same profile as the 'solera', with just a little more dryness, oak, caramel, and coffee. Especially the oak's very noticeable. Finish: medium, on liqueur-filled chocolate and, perhaps burnt pecan pie. Comments: maybe a little less sweet than the 'solera'. Pretty fine, should you like this style. SGP:640 - 72 points.

Diplo

Diplomatico 'Ambassador' (47%, OB, Venezuela, +/-2015)

A prestige bottling by a brand that makes many whisky (and rum) enthusiasts either laugh or cringe. Sadly, it's been finished in PX, but that's probably not the worst way of adding 'sweet additives' to a spirit. I like the improved strength, having said that. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: what's this? It's pure honey and molasses! Sadly not at the price of pure honey and molasses. If you wait a bit longer, there are pleasant notes of milk chocolate and tinned litchis that are coming through. Some Nutella too, sadly. Mouth: ouch. An oak-coated sugar bomb. Corn syrup galore! I just cannot swallow more than two drops of this sickly sweet thing. Ambassadors should stick with Ferrero Rocher if you ask me. Finish: medium, ultra-sweet, with a little orange liqueur, which is nicer. Cranberry juice. Comments: bwah bwah bwah. Feels like if 10% pure sugar was added, and the 47% vol. feel like 25%. I almost like the much, much cheaper 'Reserva' better. And Coca-Cola. SGP:810 - 55 points.

Rhum J.M 2005/2015 'Armagnac Cask Finish

Rhum J.M 2005/2015 'Armagnac Cask Finish' (41.5%, OB, Martinique, cask #04 10 163, 470 bottles)

It's a little depressing to see a name as prestigious as J.M doing a finishing on their rhums (this time they used casks from Tariquet, a very large operation in Armagnac.) This finishing made them lose the Appellation Contrôlée, but in truth, the result could be very good - which would definitely cure my very temporary depression. Colour: dark amber, but it's the first one that doesn't move like if it was oil. Nose: very aromatic, and indeed there is something brandy-like. 'Dry' raisins, for example. There's also quite some oak, cedar wood, and sandal wood, and then more and more eucalyptus and mint. Maybe not very 'rhum agricole', but I won't deny that balance has been found. Tends to become bourbony over time. Mouth: same feeling. This is very good, and perfectly fresh and mentholated, but beyond that there are huge notes of pineapples and coconut oil, which is a little surprising. Finish: medium, very fruity (more pineapples). Tarte tatin in the aftertaste. Comments: pretty 'meta'. Rum plus brandy plus bourbon. A funny thing, very likable, but I'm much more into their 'pure' vintages, such as the latest 2001 (WF 89). SGP:651 - 80 points.

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far