January 4, 2016

Dallas Dhu 1975 head to head, plus bonus

A festive little session. We haven’t done any Dallas Dhu sessions for ages, and let’s only hope this one won’t be the last. Well, perhaps not, because if you’ve heard the news, it seems that there are plans to reopen the distillery in the future. That would be cool, although in my experience, Dallas Dhu’s whisky could jump up – or down.

Dallas Dhu 1975/2010 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, licensed bottling, refill barrel)

I know what you think, it’s a strange idea to reduce such a venerable old malt from a long-closed distillery down to 40% vol. I agree. Colour: gold. Nose: certainly old-school, a little dirty(ish), pretty cardboardy, somewhat metallic, and developing on whiffs of damp wool, concrete, graphite oil, and old papers and plastics. Forgot to mention a little turpentine, almond oil, and overripe apples. Whisky from another age, for sure, but it’s refreshingly vanilla-free. Mouth: sweeter and rounder, but not quite fruity. Starts with plenty of marzipan and various oils, with a leafy bitterness in the background, and rather goes on with, yes, fruits, but that would be tinned nectarines or something. Grapefruit skin. What’s impressive here is the freshness, while there are a few raisins coming through, making it rounder. Finish: rather short, but sooty and kind of smoky, so very old-style. Marmalade, cinnamon, and white pepper in the aftertaste. Mandarin liqueur. Comments: this one would have been great at cask strength, as we’ve already found proof in Italy (older Dallas Dhu bottled by G&M for Italy). I like it quite a lot, not least because of its tastes and smells of times gone by, but there’s this feeling of missed opportunity. SGP:462 - 84 points.

Dallas Dhu 29 yo 1975/2005 (45.5%, Signatory Vintage, bourbon barrel, cask #2353, 201 bottles)

Signatory had many casks of 1975, but I’ve only tried one (boooh!) It was excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: the G&M at the power of three. Fresh concrete and raw wool everywhere, then new leatherette, linseed oil, newspapers, grass, almonds, touches of parsley and chives, and perhaps hints of lemon grass. Very austere, very ‘old style’, but not on the tarry side at all. Mouth: how bizarre! Some might call it a little chemical, and indeed this combination of lemon squash, tobacco, thyme, propolis (there’s plenty of that), and plasticine make it rather un-modern. On the other hand, and despite the fact that it’s fairly challenging malt whisky, it’s got something… say romantic? Just like in the G&M, there’s some marmalade coming through after a few minutes, which makes it marginally rounder and smoother. Kind of. Finish: long, peppery, a little drying. Some coffee and oak in the aftertaste. Comments: hard to score. On the one hand, it’s a little difficult, and on the other hand, it’s fabulously un-commercial. Not a whisky for travel retail for sure. Very curious to see, if they ever reopen the distillery indeed, if they’ll smoothen up the style of the distillate… or play it ‘Glengyle/Kilkerran’. I’d do that! SGP:462 - 86 points.

And the bonus…

Dallas Dhu 35 yo 1979/2014 (53.7%, Cadenhead, Small Batch)

A micro-bottling, apparently. Very curious about this one! Colour: gold. Nose: lovely lovely lovely. An old cellar filled with old bottles, old barrels, and old books, plus perhaps some old tools. I’m also reminded of some old greased WWII guns and riffles that you could still find in many Alsatian basements or attics when I was a kid. Also a little brine and leather, old musty magazines, mushrooms… And perhaps old mothballs? Old waxes and oils for sure. Barbour grease. With water: a few old coins in the pocket of an old forgotten tweed jacket. Yeah, in an old wardrobe. Mouth (neat): many more fruits than I had hoped for, chiefly citrons and mandarins, then rather… buttered strawberries? Green melons? Behind that, always an oiliness. A little dill as well, and perhaps kippers and smoked salmon. Very peculiar, very good. With water: herbs come out, parsley, lovage, bay leaves… Well, anything you’d put into your favourite soup. Including whisky ;-). Finish: only medium, but the fact the citrus fights back and makes this finish clean, fresh, and almost zesty is almost a miracle. The aftertaste is more peppery, though. Comments: very graciously un-modern, if not a little intellectual. SGP:462 - 89 points.

(merci Nicolas and Phil!)

Check the index of all Dallas Dhu I've tasted so far