
October 10, 2016

Bottled philosophy

Diageo’s newest Special Releases have arrived, and once again they are making for one of the highlights of the whisky year. Now I just wanted to ask you, would you mind if we started with the Brora?...

Brora 38 yo 1977/2016 (48.6%, OB, Special Release, 2,984 bottles)

Last year’s SR was already a 1977, and I just loved it (WF 95). 1977 and similar vintages never quite had the reputation of, say 1972, but now that quite some water has flown under the Scottish bridges, the complexity of those whiskies just stands out. Plus, it’s not impossible that Diageo have been rather picky with the casks they selected for these recent releases… Colour: refreshingly golden. Nose: oh f*** it. I almost feel like I should leave it all here, and rather taste the new Glenkinchie. This is like nosing the hot engine of an old Aston. Bakelite, castor oil, petrol, fumes, tyres… It’s not very expressive, in fact, but it’s one of the most elegant noses I’ve been given to put under my nostrils in recent months. Or perhaps years. Also love these whiffs of ‘old books under the rain’, carbon paper, manure, autumn leaves (under the rain as well), damp earth, moss… Oh and these notes of new electronics, when we used to unpack a new stereo, around 1975… And the camphor is there as well, a bit of seaweed (nori?), paraffin oil, perhaps tinned sardines… My my my!

Mouth: I had thought it would have gotten a little shy – at least shier than younger expressions – but not at all, it still roars and kicks you. What’s really remarkable is how dry it is, it’s even drier than the driest manzanilla! Ashes, bitter green tea, liquorice extracts, artichokes, tar… You’d almost believe you’re eating tiger balm at times. Well, I imagine. More wax and paraffin as well, mints, perhaps a little tarragon, bitter almonds for sure… What a ride! There are even hints of very old Sauternes that’s integrally digested its sugar. Finish: long, still bone dry, with more artichoke and ashes. A sublime dryness. Comments: the opposite of all these new Kardashian whiskies that abound here and there. Philosophical whisky, perfectly blended. Same score as last year, but it needs no score, of course. It’s expensive whisky, but I find it a little depressing that the Port Ellen would be 40% more expensive! Don’t get me wrong, it’s the PE that’s too expensive, and not this Brora that’s too cheap! Anyway… SGP:375 - 95 points.

Now, which other Brora should we have after that very complex beauty? We’ve got a few indies that we haven’t tasted yet, but do something more useful and try to find one that may be even ‘better’… Such as this one…

Brora 22 yo 1972/1995 (61.1%, OB, Rare Malts)

Indeed we’ve already formally tried this utter beauty, but that was eleven years ago. Or a few bottles ago, as they say in Glasgow. Yeah I know, just any excuses… Colour: gold. Nose: you insane brute! What’s really striking at first nosing, is how close to the new 38 this is, it really is almost the same make. I’m starting to wonder if they weren’t making at least two different distillates in 1977, one that was akin to the 1972s, and one that was lighter, for other purposes or clients. Now this 1972 is more massive, more a body-builder, with more fermentary and farmy notes, and certainly more straight peat. Petrol, camphor, Bakelite again, leather… Oh well, it’s brilliant, but we knew that. With water: very troubling, this is almost a younger 38 – or rather, the 38 was an older 22. Ooh my head… This 22 is just a little easier (never thought I would write that one day), and with rather more sweet farmy notes. Crushed almonds, damp hessian, camphor, thymol, wet dogs (dogs, we’re sorry, you know that), and lip balm, perhaps. Poetry in your glass. Mouth (neat): totally huge, sweeter than the new 38 – but that may be the alcohol – and more mustardy, peppery, salty, and simply smoky. But at this strength, it hits you hard, so please, water… With water, at approx 48% vol. for the sake of comparison: same comments, the 1977 may have been distilled under the very same specs as this 1972. Oh and please call the anti-maltoporn brigade NOW. Finish: sadly. Menthol and almonds in the aftertaste. Comments: I’m still in love. SGP:466 - 96 points (unchanged).

Check the index of all Brora I've tasted so far