
April 5, 2016

Blends again, a truly ballistic session

When you travel to ‘emerging countries’, you sometimes come across some whisky brands you’ve simply never heard of. Or barely. That’s the case with the Scottish brand ‘John Barr’, which I had never tasted before, although I think I had heard of it, once or twice. So let’s have some, and see what gives…

John Barr ‘Red’ (40%, OB, blend, +/-2015)

A real Johnnie Walker Red look-alike that’s everywhere to be seen in Cuba. Oh, and it’s cheap, but it’s well Scotch. According to the label, it’s meant to be ‘soft, mellow & smooth’. Some adjectives can kill ;-). Colour: gold. Nose: hello? Not much happening. Some caramel, some sawdust, and some burnt papers. That’s pretty all, folks. Mouth: okayish at times, reminding me of Whyte & Mackay’s entry-level blends, but those are better I think. Sawdust, fudge, a little vanilla, and perhaps a little strawberry jam. Tends to become ‘fudgier’ over time, which is better in this context. Finish: short, burnt, cardboardy. Comments: I doubt this humble whisky is meant to be sipped without (plenty of) ice, but it’s got its (very few) moments. SGP:231 - 55 points.

John Barr ‘Black’ (40%, OB, blend, +/-2015)

Johnnie Walker have their black, so John Barr have it too. This one’s meant to be ‘rich, warm & rewarding’. Rewarding? Colour: dark gold. Nose: very honeyed, with plenty of honey indeed, maple syrup, and light molasses. Some funny hints of tequila, a very discreet smokiness, and indeed ‘ideas’ of Johnnie Black. Not too unpleasant, I’d say. Mouth: indeed, not bad, and very malty (Ovaltine), with also some ‘dark’ honey in the arrival. Sadly, it tends to become cardboardy and drying. Drip coffee, chicory… Quite thin globally. Finish: short and a little burnt. Honey and coffee are back in the aftertaste, which is better. Comments: kind of honest, and even a little good at times, especially after the rather poor Red. A kind of under-Johnnie Black. SGP:441 - 65 points.

Okay, this little session didn’t start too well. Rather than go on with obscure and rather depressing blends, let’s call in the cavalry. Things got to be done…

Choicest Liqueur Scotch Whisky of Great Age (70° proof, Berry Bros & Rudd, blend, 26 2/3 fl ozs, +/-1970)

These old bottles are always worth trying, some being simply magnificent. Colour: deep gold. Nose: oh, chicken soup, honeydew, metal polish, and sultanas! What a soup indeed! And as often, there’s some mint appearing, some eucalyptus, something greatly metallic and petroly (grandpa’s old toolbox), and then a strange mixture made out of tequila, coffee liqueur, and aniseed. Some call it a ‘Mayan Sacrifice’, an interesting shooter they pour you in South America. Mouth: totally excellent, as expected. Metallic tangerines and peppered overripe apples, softened with chartreuse and myrtle liqueur. Or something like that (don’t try that at home). Lovely tarry notes as well, chocolate mints, tobacco, perhaps a little soft curry, a touch of sweet mustard… Even the body’s perfect, despite the strength. Finish: not too long, but wonderfully mentholy and meaty. A touch of lemon and salt in the aftertaste. Comments: very refined and elegant. Only the relative lack of oomph will prevent me from going over… SGP:452 - 90 points.

Choicest Liqueur Scotch Whisky of Great Age (70° proof, Berry Bros & Rudd, blend, +/-1950)

An older version! Probably pre-war distillates… Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s drier and waxier, the composition was probably quite different. Less metal and tar, and more plasticine, orange zests, sunflower oil (very vivid), and almost as much honeydew as in the newer sibling. There’s also more and more beeswax, which is absolutely stunning. Fabulous nose, very compact. Mouth: we’re closer, but this has more oomph, and certainly many more oranges and tangerines, over some perfect beeswax. Some old Sauternes that got beautifully dry, some overripe apples, and the best mead in the world (although I’m not a huge fan of mead). Perfect, and totally not tired. Finish: rather long, on one of my favourite deserts. That would be peeled oranges seasoned with a blend of honey and olive oil. Try that and let me know how it turns out! Comments: totally exceptional. Tastes like some greatly vatted malt, but these old labels wouldn’t tell. SGP:542 - 93 points.

Berry’s Best Liqueur Blended Scotch Whisky (Berry Bros & Rudd, +/-1950)

No ABV and no capacity given on this lovely old label. Not 100% sure when this was bottled, some claim that it’s much older, but I don’t think so. Colour: gold. Nose: styles are pretty similar, but this one’s both a little shier and more metallic again, with also rather more leather and meaty notes (chicken soup). Less fruits for sure, it’s not impossible that, indeed, this would be a blend while the ‘Choicest’ would be a vatted malt, or perhaps even a single. Mouth: ah, the oranges are back! And so are the honeys and tangerines, with plenty of beeswax again in the background. The same best mead in the world again, plus golden raisins, a wee touch of artisan pastis – make that genuine absinth from Val-de-Travers, and a little caraway and cinnamon. Perfect again. Finish: medium, honeyed and waxy. The same favourite desert again. Comments: the nose of the first Choicest Liqueur and the palate of the second one. A drop that’s simply totally perfect. Probably around 40% vol. at time of bottling. SGP:452 - 92 points.

We’re having much luck with these old BBRs – but that was expected. Shall we push our luck?... You bet…

Berry’s Best Blended Scotch Whisky (Berry Bros & Rudd, 1930s?)

An older bottling according to the closure. Please note that the previous one was a ‘liqueur blended Scotch whisky’, while this one is only a ‘blended Scotch whisky’. In theory, the ‘liqueurs’ used to be superior, let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: well, isn’t it amazing that while the two of them weren’t bottled in the same decades (in theory), and while they both spent more than sixty years in glass, they would be so similar? Now, after a few minutes, this one would become a little more medicinal, with a little more camphor and eucalyptus, but other than that, there is the same metallic leather, plus some bouillon and perhaps a little clay and chalk. Tends to become a little more expressive minute by minute. Quite superb! Mouth: what a powerful little oldie! Indeed this one’s more medicinal, there’s probably quite some Islay inside. Perhaps Laphroaig, or maybe Malt Mill? We’ll never know… Some kind of mentholated honey, a touch of salt (Islay?), a spoonful of brine, one small oyster, drops of lime juice, and half a roasted peanut. Or would that be sesame oil? What’s sure is that this a wonderful, very ‘wide’ palate. To think that the components were probably distilled one hundred years ago… As for the grain – but is there any grain? – it’s totally unnoticeable. Who said that’s always been their fate anyway? Finish: medium to long, a tad jammier, with more raisins. Lovely smoky/briny aftertaste, a bit ala old Laphroaig indeed. Comments: great work by Berry Bros’ old cellar masters and blenders. Again. SGP:552 - 92 points.

Good, I think we’ve recovered from the lousy John Barrs. Thank you BB&R! (and Angus and Emmanuel)

Check the index of all blends I've tasted so far