
June 16, 2016

Benromach, the beast and the beauty

A name that’s recently gained much respect in whisky chatting circles. Deservedly. We’ll try their latest expressions, one that’s scary (to me) and one that’s as attractive as… wait, say goose foie gras stuffed with black winter truffles.

Benromach 2007/2016 ‘Sassicaia Wood Finish’ (45%, OB, 3500 bottles)

I’ll have to say this first, I’m not a fan – at all - of Sassicaia or other so-called ‘Supertuscans’ that uninspiredly try to mimic Bordeaux, while I absolutely love the Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, and many other totally superb Italian grape varieties. Seriously, why make Bordeaux blends when you have Sangiovese? Reminds me of that very stupid wine journo in the movie ‘Mondovino’… But yeah, another chestnut, let’s rather try this little Supertuscanspeyside… Colour: apricot. Nose: it’s with great joy and relief that I’m noticing that the red wine hasn’t taken over, and that despite these wee touches of raspberries and blood oranges, the bold distillate managed to keep afloat. Ginger, porridge, chalk, and this greasy Springbankness that I’m noticing more and more in young(ish) Benromach. Mouth: a little bizarre this time, sweet and sour, with a lot of ginger and more raspberries, heavy caraway, more blood oranges, more bitter ginger, pepper, a little salt, then redcurrant jelly… A rather unusual combo, not quite my cup of malt I have to say. Finish: rather long, leafier, even more gingery, with blackcurrant leaves – and perhaps buds – and always this feeling of orange zests. Funny notes of butterscotch in the aftertaste. Comments: totally not my preferred style. In truth I don’t know what to add, except that I’m happy that the ‘traditional’ Benromachs (5, 10, 15…) are so much greater these days. Grand cru material in my book, but probably not this one. SGP:552 - 75 points.

Benromach 41 yo 1974/2016 (49.1%, OB, sherry butt, cask #1583, 452 bottles)

A brand new single cask bottling, following the similarly packaged 35 yo that I just adored in February this year (WF 91). Colour: deep gold. Nose: Mozart after Mariah Carey. Yeah I know I should leave her alone. What I find terrific is that there are two parts that mingled extremely well together. First, a very ‘beehive-y’ side that’s akin to what could be found in old Caperdonichs, for example, which I just cherish (beeswax, ripe peaches, honeys, pollen, old Sauternes, sultanas…) and second, a firmer, more coastal and mineral side, which involves flints, beach sand, a tiny tarry rope, and wee bits of camphor. Plus a little leather and cedar wood. The whole’s perfectly synchronised. Mouth: exceptionally good, with a tamed, slightly gingery oakiness that complements a wonderful citrusy profile, with tangerines, one slice of pink banana (oh forget), plenty of lime, and a growing saltiness. In fact, it gets extremely limy. Also a little curry and wasabi, ginger, slightly prickly pepper (all fine), and this feeling of chewing green tea leaves. That’s the oak, and that’s surprisingly pleasant in this context. Finish: medium, sharp and tense, almost angular, on lime, ginger, and green tea. Rather un-butt at this point, if I may. Very lemony aftertaste. Comments: I wasn’t expecting this much zestiness from an old sherry butt. That was impressive. Sure the oak feels on the palate, but it’s of the better kind. Or was it orangewood? SGP:562 - 92 points.

Check the index of all Benromach I've tasted so far