
April 12, 2016

Balvenie 25, official vs. indie

There’s this very expensive 25 years old, and in theory, I should have had the independent opponent first. But since the official was bottled at some rather miserly low 40% vol., that simply wouldn’t work, so we’ll have to try the latter first.

Balvenie 25 yo ‘Triple Casks’ (40%, OB, +/-2015)

I know the ‘triple cask’ name can be worrying, but that’s not three successive finishings, it’s more some marrying of three kinds of maturations, namely refill, fresh bourbon, and oloroso. I find the 40% a little low and disappointing, especially given the very hefty price (around €600!) Colour: light amber. Nose: subtle, that’s for sure. The distillery’s trademark mirabelles and quinces strike first, before a rather lovely combination of raisins and heather honey are joining in the dancing. That should be the sherry speaking out. Gets then more herbal and floral, with some honeysuckle tea, blond tobacco, and lime blossom, then a little spearmint. It’s all very subtle indeed, rather in the style of some old cognac. Mouth: this is funny, had I tried this blind, I’d have said it could be one of those old bottles by G&M, such as pre-war distilled Glen Grant or Linkwood. Soft sherry and orange cake, honey sauce, milk chocolate, touches of leather, toasted cake, and then some marmalade. The problem is that while the arrival was most attractive, it’s soon to become a little weak and flat, what I sometimes call tea-ish. I’m sure that’s the low strength, and it is frustrating. Finish: disappointingly short, which, in the end, makes it a little too tannic. Comments: I’m totally sure this is great whisky, but do not understand why they bottled it at 40% vol. Only to get more bottles out of the casks? I feel it could have made it to 90 points at around 45% vol. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Burnside 25 yo 1989/2014 (50.9%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 167 bottles)

Good, not really Balvenie, as as we all know, Burnside is the name of the blended malt made out of Balvenie (teaspooned with other malts by W. Grant). Colour: gold. Nose: starts on oak and leaves, so very vegetal, with many less plums and quinces – or any other fruits. A yeasty side as well, sour wood, crushed stems… It’s a little surprising but certainly not unpleasant. What’s quite funny, though, is that those fruits do come out, but you have to wait for ten minutes. Greengages, honey, white chocolate… With water: a little menthol that adds more freshness. Some mead as well, and again this wee feeling of sour wood, sour apples… Mouth (neat): typical Balvenie this time. More plums, a touch of rhubarb and orange, apricots, drops of maple syrup… It’s bright and even a little zesty, but it’s true that Balvenie and bourbon wood usually work very well together. With water: good. Orange juice with a little vanilla. A discreet fizzy side. Finish: medium, in keeping. Oranges and plums, more mead in the aftertaste. Comments: don’t we have a tie? SGP: - 85 points.

PS: I’ve mixed both 50-50 and came up with a 88/89 pointer! Am I not good? But we’ve got another ’89 Burnside…

Burnside 24 yo 1989/2014 (51.1%, Whisky-Fässle, hogshead)

Colour: gold. Nose: it is the same whisky. I cannot find any differences – and I’m trying very hard. Greengage galore, that would be a good name for a heavy metal band, wouldn’t it. Mouth: indeed. I mean, not the heavy metal bit. Very good whisky that reminds me of some official 15 years old ‘single barrels’ from a few years back. Fudgy oranges. We used to have some fantastic cookies in France called ‘Chamonix’ – yeah, just like the skiing town in the French Alps – and this little Balvenie by another name does remind of those. Perhaps do they still make them, have to check that as soon as possible. Finish: very good. Comments: very good. SGP:651 – 85 points.

Check the index of all Balvenie I've tasted so far