
May 26, 2016

Another grainy verticale

Grains. Am I the only whisky enthusiast that did not totally fall for them – yet? Believe me I’m trying hard, and I’ll try hard again today. We may come across some excellent ones, after all. We’ll even try to select some of the best new or recent ones, apart from the apéritif, which might be a little… strange…

Loch Lomond (46%, OB, Single Grain, +/-2016)

They can produce any kind of whisky at Loch Lomond Distillery, thanks to their various stills. Including NAS grain, all they may be lacking is a retired footballer with a well-known appetite for brands and cheques. Colour: white wine/straw. Nose: mercurochrome and varnish at first nosing, then some gentler apples and vanilla, with a little sawdust in the background. It’s not un-nice, at all, it’s just rather discreet. A little fennel, perhaps. We’ve nosed worse grains. Mouth: a little spirity, but the vanilla does a good job. Something of Black Barrel, the father of all contemporary branded grains. Excuse me? Right, and Cameron Brig. Finish: medium, a little hot. Apples and vanilla. A lot of gritty green tea in the aftertaste. Comments: I was ready for worse. It’s the strength and the wood that are doing the job here. Better than a kick in the teeth, as they say in rugby. SGP:440 - 70 points.

Invergordon 1988/2015 ‘Rosy Apple Brulé’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, butt, 494 bottles)

They seem to enjoy Invergordon at Wemyss. Now their names tend to become more esoteric, which is actually fun. Now not too sure you write brulé, in French it’s brûlé, but let’s not start to quibble upon one tiny circumflex accent. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s really bourbon-like, with a lot of vanilla, burnt sugar, burnt cake, caramel, toffee, café latte, Nutella… There’s also a little earth that may come from the sherry, but no raisins or suchlike that I can detect. Mouth: it’s got this ‘hot thinness’ that so very grain in my book. More burnt sugar, a little syrup coating your palate, but a thinnish middle. Glenfiddich-filled chocolate like they make in good old Switzerland. Finish: short, with touches of rum, perhaps. Candy sugar, old white wine. Comments: perhaps they could add a little glycerine to add body, like some do with ‘rum’. But that would be streng verboten, no need to say. SGP:530 - 78 points.

Let’s try a stronger Invergordon…

Invergordon 25 yo 1991/2016 (57.7%, Cadenhead, World Whiskies, bourbon hogshead, 192 bottles)

If Cadenhead put these grains into their ‘World Whiskies’ series, does that mean that they consider them not to be totally Scottish? Colour: white wine. Nose: I’m really trying my best, but I’m sorry, this doesn’t work with me. We’re close to vodka! Even if some notes of brunt caramel tend to come out. Mouth: no, wait, this is nicer. There’s some earth, some roots, a gentiany feeling that I always enjoy, touches of wormwood that mingle with some grated dried coconut, coconut balls, a little grenadine… I’m not into these sweet flavours, but the earthiness that coats them kind of transfigures them. I agree, a bold term. Finish: medium, a tad varnishy, but the marshmallows and coconut keep it rather playful. Comments: one of the better ones in my book, but that’s partly because I enjoy coconut. SGP:520 - 81 points.

Let’s try some older Invergordon this time…

Invergordon 42 yo (47.7%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, batch 6, 238 bottles, 2016)

If you ever wondered how a Coffey still works, the label will tell you. Colour: gold. Nose: crème de menthe and myrtle liqueur at first nosing, then newly sawn oak and pinewood, then rather white chocolate and Malibu/coconut oil. Some grated manioc, perhaps, and even a little ham. There’s more happening in this older one than in all the others – combined. Mouth: more coconut balls, marshmallows, white chocolate, pralines, banana split, vanilla… There’s something festive, and something tropical to boot. Finish: medium, sweet, with more coconut and white chocolate. Some sweet spices in the aftertaste, from the oak. Speculoos, vanilla custard. The crème de menthe is back in the aftertaste. Comments: doesn’t age matter even more with grain whisky? (oh, not again!) SGP:731 - 85 points.

Let’s try to answer that seminal question, with…

Garnheath 41 yo 1974/2015 (48.9%, Douglas Laing, Xtra Old Particular, refill barrel, cask #11029, 141 bottles)

Moffat’s Garnheath grain is very rare, just like the malt that used to be made in the same distillery, Killyloch/Glen Flagler. I’ve tried a sister cask by Càrn Mòr last year, and found it very excellent (WF 87). Will this be this session’s blaze of glory? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s subtle, and that’s the wood. Light herbal teas, dried flowers, butterscotch, brioche, vanilla pods, moss and fern after a summer rain, chamomile… The butterscotch wins it after five minutes, while more and more ‘good’ coffee comes out. Italian style! Mouth: seriously, this is extremely good. We’re not far at all from the old Invergordon, with the same coconutty and chocolaty goodness, the bananas, a little coconut butter, some tinned papayas. I’ve also got hints of earthy/rooty/gentiany things in the distance, which I adore (You'll have noticed that I have a tendency to ramble.) Finish: medium, rather candied. Orange drops, aniseed sweets (do you know Anis de Flavigny? You should!) and a little maple syrup. Comments: super-mega-hyper good. Now that I’ve tried around five Garnheaths (nothing to brag about), I’m starting to believe it was one of, if not the best Scotch grain whisky. SGP:640 - 86 points.

It got better and better today, those are my favourite sessions!

Check the index of all grain whiskies I've tasted so far