
April 11, 2016

A short verticale of Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis is a malt that’s always got something to say. If I remember well, it was also the only malt distillery that’s ever used some washbacks made out of concrete, which the owner, Mr. Hobbs, had first seen at some winemarkers’ in California. But apparently, they haven’t kept them for very long.

Ben Nevis 16 yo 1999/2015 (54.1%, Exclusive Malts, cask #190, 301 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: a good example of a malt that’s quite sulphury, but that’s not sulphur from the casks, it’s sulphury by design – which the blenders need and like to add depth to their blends? I also find some chalk, some paraffin, plenty of cereals, some grass smoke, and then some green apples. It’s malt whisky with some depth. With water: soot, saltpetre, and concrete indeed (but that’s not from the washbacks, those had been dismounted much earlier). Wet wool. Mouth (neat): excellent start on ale and lemon juice, going on with some orange drops and a Fanta-ish side, and becoming quite mineral and, once again, chalky. I really enjoy this unusual lemon-chalk combination. With water: becomes fruitier, in a lovely fashion. Mangos, more oranges, a feeling of Gueuze beer… Finish: long, a little more candied. Comments: excellently characterful and singular. Were they still using brewer’s yeast when they were making these batches? SGP:551 - 86 points.

Ben Nevis 17 yo 1998/2015 (58.6%, Valinch & Mallet, sherry butt, cask #11439, 240 bottles)

Valinch & Mallet are new independent bottlers from lovely Italy. Colour: amber. Nose: and once again, quite some sulphur – but I couldn’t tell you if that comes from the butt or from the spirit. No eggy sulphur for sure. What’s sure is that it’s quite an asset here, as what we’re finding is some kind of smoked raisins, burnt kugelhopf, roasted chestnuts, and garden peat. Scoria, burnt sugar, fresh concrete yet again… With water: love this parsley, lovage, soy sauce, chicken soup… Mouth (neat): totally and perfectly Ben Nevis, and in that sense much closer to the officials than most indies. Big, fat, very leathery and cigary, and pleasantly ‘dirty’, as most are. It’s philosophical dirt, I’d say. Also bags of Seville oranges and Demerara sugar. With water: a lot of bitter chocolate and more cigars. Finish: long, superbly bitter (Fernet Branca), chocolaty, leather… And cigary! A salty touch in the aftertaste. Comments: superb! Probably not for everyone, though, because it’s quite extreme and, as they say in marketing, segmenting. A good way of having a cigar when you do not smoke. SGP:472 - 89 points.

Ben Nevis 19 yo 1996/2015 (50,9%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 121 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: the narrowest so far, with some fresh butter, custard, lager, and lamp oil at first nosing, then rather porridge and, once again, chalk. Much less ‘wham-bam’ than the sherried 1998 for sure. With water: the trademark sourness is back. Craft ales and ciders. Mouth (neat): creamier and fresher, certainly cleaner than most Ben Nevisses. Tangerines and apples (goldens), with this feeling of Fanta again. Fizzy orange juice. Not too ripe apricots. With water: becomes rounder, creamier, and more on tinned fruits (peaches). There’s also a little porridge again in the background, with touches of ginger and white pepper. Finish: medium, rather clean for Ben Nevis. Some muscovado sugar. Comments: another one that’s excellent, it’s just a notch less idiosyncratic. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Ben Nevis 1996/2015 (52.3%, Sansibar for S Spirit Shop, bourbon, 119 bottles)

Another one with a happy Samurai on the label. Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re obviously extremely close to the Maltbarn. Perhaps a notch grassier? Perhaps… A little more grass smoke, garden bonfire, linseed oil… But other than that, we’re very close indeed. With water: indeed. Mouth (neat): I like this. Spearmint, green apples, grapefruits, chalk, hops, cantaloupes, orange peel… With water: perfect acidic fruits and peels, with a fattish, slightly ‘plastic’ backbone. Excellent. Finish: rather long, zestier, excellent. Comments: not the most fermentary Ben Nevis ever. I find it perfect in its own, very ‘West Coast’ style. SGP:551 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Ben Nevis I've tasted so far