
November 9, 2016

A little trio of Benriach

Two finished ones, one natural one. Ha, nature!

Benriach 17 yo ‘Pedro Ximenez’ (46%, OB, +/-2016)

A finishing, naturally. Our friends in Scotland are using more and more PX these days, it’s a quick way of changing a spirit’s profile. But there will soon be more Pedros than Jocks over there… Colour: apricot. Nose: a little vinous and rubbery at the same time, before it becomes fruitier, around Xmas cake and red berry jam. A little gunpowder, but also more and more leathery raisins and gingered marmalade. I find it pretty pleasant. Mouth: pleasant indeed, I’m even finding a Benriachy fruitiness behind the PXed layer. Raspberry jam, raspberry-filled chocolate, some sweet peppered chocolate, more raspberries… Finish: medium, on just the same flavours. Comments: I think it’s a finishing that’s honest and loyal. Above the Rioja Wood from a few years ago. SGP:641 - 82 points.

Benriach 21 yo ‘Tawny Port’ (46%, OB, +/-2016)

Tawnies are usually rather oxidative and sweet at the same time. They’re rather the basic Port wines, but they may get quite good when old. Colour: apricot. Nose: curiously drier, leafier, and perhaps more indefinite than the PX at first nosing, but then there are these touches of blackcurrant buds, leaves and simply berries that, in my experience, is often to be found in Port-finished whiskies. Mouth: rather good! Nothing scary in this one, it’s all well rounded and balanced, with blood oranges, marmalade, and yup, blackcurrants and a little ginger. Or, speculoos. A wee gin-y side. Finish: medium, with a little more white pepper and nutmeg. Comments: very fine, IMHO. No clashes this time. SGP:551 - 83 points.

Benriach 26 yo 1990/2016 (50.2%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #030143, 152 bottles)

Benriach au naturel this time. Colour: straw. Nose: more room for the distillate, as expected, and in this case it’s a ‘western’ Benriach, without much tropicalness, rather assorted apples, pears, and plums. Perhaps a touch of varnish as well, but that works much better here than on Kim K. With water: peaches! Mouth (neat): very good, very well balanced between the same ‘western’ fruits and a leafy barleyness, plus oranges. Stylish, not sexy, but that’s what we enjoy. With water: gets creamier, with a little more custard as well. Tinned peaches, and the usual oranges. Barley syrup coating the whole. Finish: medium, with a few more spices and leather/leaves. Comments: simply perfect and perfectly simple. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Check the index of all Benriach I've tasted so far