January 15, 2016

A little more Invergordon

Shall we see the light today, or only an ocean of bubblegum, coconut, and vanilla? Now it’s true that I’ve already tasted some great Invergordon grains, especially old ones. So, without fuss…

Invergordon 27 yo 1988/2015 (51.3%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 132 bottles)

Hope it’s not a lame duck (that was hilarious, S.) Colour: white wine. Nose: a rather grassier grain, but that may be the oak. Some grass, some cut apples, a little wood alcohol, perhaps… And a touch of acetone. Yeah well… With water: a bit of oak juice, a bit of vanilla, perhaps a drop of metal polish. Mouth (neat): it’s a bit like chewing on some giant marshmallow, just before quenching your thirst with a glass of grass juice. That’s good for your health! With water: better for sure, just not utterly complex. Custard and apple juice, plus some green tea. Finish: medium, a little sugary. Bubblegum indeed. Some light Cuban rum in the aftertaste. Comments: very fair, in fact, just not my style. Doesn’t quite hold a candle to Maltbarn’s malts, which are always of very high quality. IMHO! SGP:541 - 79 points.

Invergordon 1988/2015 ‘Applewood Bake’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, butt, 697 bottles)

Colour: white wine, so it was very ‘refill’ sherry. Nose: same profile as that of the Maltbarn, only even harsher, with less oak, and curious notes of old bread and coal dust, as well as some stale apple juice starting to ferment. Mouth: this is rather better, but it’s still some sugary, at times vodka-ish grain whisky. I do not find any depth of flavours in this. Finish: short, with perhaps a little pepper from the oak. Comments: of course it’s drinkable, and some will even find it good, but to me it’s just flavoured ethanol. You got it, I’m not a fan. Very un-Wemyss! SGP:531 - 72 points.

Invergordon 24 yo 1988/2012 (55.5%, Single Cask Collection, barrel, cask #18589, 188 bottles)

That is right, we’re insisting. Colour: white wine. Nose: ah, this is more to my liking, probably thanks to a better cask. It’s leafier, with some teas, banana skins, a little menthol, and various apples, certainly not overripe or as stale juice this time. Like this freshness. With water: some wool and some chalk, which just works for me. Mouth (neat): once again, it’s got more depth, a vibrant citrus, and a feeling of… malt whisky. How could we be against that? With water: a fruit salad with fresh mint leaves. Fresh pineapples may be leading the way. Finish: medium, clean, with a little light rum again, just like in the Maltbarn. Tangerines in the aftertaste. Comments: success! In the case of grain whisky, I may agree with G&M’s new motto, which is that ‘the wood makes the whisky’ (when the distillate’s pretty silent, I would add). SGP:641 - 85 points.

Good we’ve had enough 1988s. Let’s jump to…

Invergordon 50 yo 1964/2015 (43%, Douglas Laing, Xtra Old Particular, cask #2)

This baby was the 24th sample in Master of Malt’s advent calendar last year. Very sensible! Colour: amber. Nose: as you probably know, very old spirits tend to converge, and in this case, we could as well be in Cognac, or it could be some super-old light rum. What I get is mostly milk chocolate and cigarette tobacco, then raisins and dried dates, then quite some praline and honeydew. It is a very elegant nose, very easy, and pretty Christmassy indeed. Although there are hints of coconut and vanilla in the background. Mouth: all creamy easiness this time, but rather than Cognac, this could be bourbon. Which, agreed, is only normal. Coconut cream, vanilla cake, maple syrup, a touch of honeydew again, and repeat. Very, very, very smooth and easy. What’s impressive is the fact that it’s not tired at all, just very, very smooooth. Finish: medium, with more sweet oak, and always plenty of coconut cream. Some Grand-Marnier in the aftertaste. Comments: this old baby won’t do any harm to you, it’s as smooth s silk. And oh, I find it extremely good. SGP:730 - 88 points.

Check the index of all grains I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback