October 16, 2015

Young shtuff from Scotland, England, France, and Japan

Sounds like the Rugby World Cup, doesn’t it. There are myriads of new distilleries all around the world, and while one may wonder ‘who’s going to drink all this?’, I find this trend most joyous, from a taster’s point of view. We already tried Ardnamuchan and a bunch of other new cats, let’s have a few others today, not all whisky yet. Just for fun…

Glasgow Distillery 4 mo 2015/2015 (46%, OB, new make spirit, refill bourbon)

The first distillery in Glasgow since 100 years, with a capacity of around 500k litres a year (LPA? Whisky? Not too sure). This baby’s been distilled in May this year. Colour: white with a yellowish hue. Nose: well, it’s clean, fresh, and fruity new make, full of pears. Rather soft, without any varnish, acetone, feints, yeasts or whatnot. A little vanilla, tough. It seems that they went for a light, fruity style. Mouth: same feeling, its rather soft, already balanced, with pears once again – which is normal – then rather peaches and lemons. The mouth feel is slightly oily. To give you an idea, it’s a bit akin to unpeated Ardmore – but I agree, not many people have tasted unpeated Ardmore. A touch of liquorice and pink grapefruits, plus the vanilla from the oak. Liquorice allsorts (a tiny one). Finish: not long, which, again, is normal. Comments: light fruity style, it seems, but you never quite know how spirit and casks will tango before you taste the result at 5 or 10. We’ll see… But you could already down this on ice! SGP:630 - (useless) points.

Costwolds 2014/2015 (63%, OB, single malt spirit, England, cask #32)

This is much older, ten months! ;-). It was matured in an ex-wine barrique that was shaved, toasted and recharred. Oh and they’ve used organic barley. The distillery is smaller than Glasgow’s, with an annual capacity of ‘150,000 bottles’. So rather craft. Colour: gold. Nose: this already shows some maturity, but I guess it was French oak. Some kind of spicy desert, such as some Damson plum pie covered with cinnamon, perhaps. Also some very obvious rubbed orange skin, you’d almost believe they’ve added some orange skin oil. With water: a touch of caraway, cinnamon cake… It sure was a good barrique, and it’s great that they haven’t kept the wine. Very interesting work, smart. Mouth (neat): but… this works! Well, it does not quite taste like whisky, but I do enjoy this funny cocktail made out of Campari, Unicum, Aperol, and blood orange juice. Have to try that one day… With water: more whisky-ish. I find this impressive, and I cannot not think of those crazy American at Lost Spirits’. Again, smart. Finish: quite long, perhaps on Schweppes Orange? Nice creamy woodiness. Comments: how will this age? I’m very, very curious. And impressed with this pretty baroque barrique (Serge, tsk tsk…). SGP:641 - (useless, but would be rather high) points.

Domaine des Hautes Glaces 2011 'Ceros' (56.5%, OB, single malt, France, 1000 bottles, 2015)

This is well whisky, made by these mad young growers-distillers in the Alps. Single estate whisky, you know! Oh and I believe this is malted rye. Colour: white wine. Nose: I knew this was going to be perfect. Demerara sugar, croissants, wholegrain bread, a touch of damp earth, a touch of ginger, and a curious feeling of ginseng. This baby may give you strength and cure just anything, wondering if they haven’t used the secret recipe for the Ming emperors. With water: it’s the cereal and the bread that do the talking. Back to the roots! Mouth (neat): oh so perfect. I’ve already tried a version at 45% vol., but not sure about which one I’ll publish first, at time of writing. Anyway, I’m very fond of this perfect liquid spicy cake (not space cake), this is akin to some Alsatian Christmas cake called Christstollen. No, that’s not fruitcake. Lemon, salt, ginger, tequila, bread, olives, vanilla, quinces, dried and crystallised fruits… Perhaps did they use wine casks? There’s a feeling of raisins and a very tiny touch of muscat. With water: no, drop that, once again it’s the bread that speaks. Or panettone? Kugelhopf? Finish: long, on the same flavours. Love the saltiness. Comments: sadly, I don’t think this is easy to find yet. Superb. Just, careful with water, it only swims well down to approx 48-50% vol. SGP:561 - 88 points.

So, a very young Japanese, he said… That ought to be a new Chichibu, don’t you think?

Chichibu 2011/2015 (62%, OB, for LMDW, Madeira hogshead, cask #1371)

This, is some elegant packaging. True luxury. Colour: red copper. Nose: it hasn’t got the Ceros’ immediate fullness, but perhaps that’s because of the higher strength. Having said that it’s got the cooked damson plums that echo the Costwold’s. Well I’m not against wine casks when it’s not just a matter of sucking out wine from the cask to flavour or bend the profile of some tired spirit. Superb notes of moss arising, boletus, tree bark, fern… We’re lost in a forest! But I think it’s too strong to let too many aromas come out. Needs water. So, with water: essential oils from the wood, and nutty/bacony aromas from the Madeira, plus oranges and light pipe tobacco. Mouth (neat): genius. Same kind of feeling as with the Costwold, this is not totally ‘whisky’ (but of course it is, technically), and yet it works. Glazed chestnuts, rancio (in a 4 yo whisky!), Seville oranges, ginger tonic, green pepper… What a body! Some fir honeydew as well, perhaps cranberries. And the smallest bit of Spanish ham (yep I’m aware of the fact that Madeira isn’t a part of Spain). With water: yess. It’s a kind of Asian sweet sauce, very complex, bittersweet, fruity, with some great fermentative notes. I’m sure you’ll think I’m dead crazy, or too influenced by the origins of this whisky, but I’m finding notes of sweet-style sake. Finish: same. Perhaps a notch more crystallised oranges and dried ginger. Rounded aftertaste, coasts your throat like honey. Comments: please don’t ask me to decide who won. SGP:651 - 88 points.

With people such as Ichiro-san or the Hautes Glaces gang (and several others, all over the world), the future of high-end ‘grand cru’ whisky is bright. These people are starting to reshuffle the cards, and I find that very refreshing. Too bad they’re so small…