July 22, 2015

Three Glencadam, Mr Adam

Glencadam is one of these names that are virtually unknown these days. I remember when the new 15 was launched, many whisky lovers had hoped that the brand would start to catch more light (especially as Big Jim McEwan had claimed that it was his favourite tipple – after Bruichladdich of course), but it doesn’t seem that that ever happened. And yet, Glencadam can be very good!

Glencadam 10 yo (46%, OB, +/-2014)

I’ve first tried this expression in 2009, and really liked it (WF 84). Colour: white wine. Nose: what the colour already suggested, there’s no oak treatment behind this baby, it’s fully on barley, porridge, cider apples, Williams pears and fresh baguette. There’s something fundamentally honest in this lovely malty nose. It’s well malt whisky, not caramelised oak juice! Mouth: in keeping with the nose, albeit sweeter and fruitier. Green apples, golden delicious, granny smith (are you going to list all apples you know, S.?) There’s some green lemony barley, touches of fennel and dill, white bread, grapefruits… Indeed, this is very honest. Finish: rather long, partly thanks to a perfect strength, on more fresh barley, apples, and sweetened porridge. Comments: I believe it’s a bottle that you must have in your bar, to check every once in a while ‘what’s the taste of pure malt whisky’. Very good. SGP:451 - 85 points.

I think we have a perfect sparring partner…

Glencadam 10 yo 2004/2014 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, cask #10596)

This should be similar, but let’s see… Colour: white wine. Nose: LOL, it’s the same whisky! Well, almost. This one’s perhaps a notch zestier and fruitier, with a little more citrus, but also a faint soapy side, very discreet but noticeable. Soapwort? Mouth: same comments, minus the soap. Almost the same whiskies, with these apples, lemons, barley, aniseed, oranges… I find it really good. Perfect mouth feel. Finish: long, and certainly more citrusy than the OB at this point. A touch of kirsch. Comments: same very appealing malty profile, with a lot of freshness. Quality’s totally equivalent, this one’s just 20% more expensive. But we don’t taste price tags, do we. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Glencadam 26 yo 1989/2015 (55.3%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, 180 bottles)

Another brand new Cadenhead, bottled this month. Colour: straw/pale gold. Nose: proof that ageing does some good to fine whiskies. This is more complex, with a deeper fruitiness, a slightly mentholy oak, and, guess what? That’s right, barley, apples, pears and baguette! Very nice old whisky au naturel. With water: gets sauvignony, all for the better. Pouilly-Fumé with some thickness. Mouth (neat): we’re really close to the tens this time, but there are added touches of tropical fruits, maracuja, blood oranges, orange drops, melons… It’s got a vibrancy that’s a little unusual at this age, and a lot of freshness. In a way, it reminds me of some Bruichladdichs, which may explain why Jim McEwan likes his Glencadam. Bingo! With water: dry cider and sauvignon blanc, 50/50. Perfect for summertime. Finish: good length and a herbal side that comes through. Chives? Also limes. Margarita? Oh forget… Comments: this one’s excellently fresh. It would even take a few ice cubes when temperatures go up. SGP:551 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Glencadam I've tasted so far