August 7, 2015

Three American ryes and one Dutch

(make that one American and one Dutch)

Let us have a little more of that flavourful and characterful spirit called rye. Some are starting to claim that there’s more happening in rye than in barley – let alone maize or wheat. They aren’t obligatorily wrong, but as always with stronger tastes, those aren’t always very ‘consensual’, while ethanol-producing high-yield grains will let you do any kind of aromatisation on them without ever getting in your way…

High West ‘Double Rye!’ (46%, OB, USA, batch #13D11, 2013)

A blend of a 2yo 95% rye mash with a 16yo 53% rye mash. We had liked another batch very much (WF 84). It’s presented as ‘craft whiskey’ from a ‘distillery and saloon’ but it’s sourced whiskey. It seems that people are really starting to chat about craft-like whiskeys over there in good old America… But there is some craft in the marketing for sure. Colour: gold. Nose: I have to say I like this. It’s very fresh, with lemons and citrons, then ginger and lemongrass, then various colognes and eaux-de-toilette, always in nice ways. Rosewater, lavender, vanilla, vetiver… The spiciness keeps it straight, and it would just never become perfumy. Very lovely nose, especially the oranges that start to come through… Mouth: intense ‘good’ perfume, lavender, violet sweets, juniper, fennel, then citrus, mandarin, citrons, lemons, blood oranges, then the spices. Ginger, cumin, star anise, a wee touch of ‘good’ soap… Good solid body, quite creamy. Finish: long, with more spices and more oak. Cloves? Cinnamon for sure. Comments: there sure is some craft in this. And yes I know they’ve got a small working still, so it is technically ‘a distillery’. Bah, same score as the previous batch, it’s very good anyway. SGP:561 - 84 points.

Reminds me of Sku's (of recenteats.blogspot.fr fame) new definition of Handmade or Handcrafted Whiskey: Whiskey which is a distinctive product of Indiana, manufactured in Indiana in compliance with the laws of Indiana regulating the manufacture of Indiana whiskey for consumption in Indiana.

Bulleit Rye (45%, OB, USA, +/-2015)

Never tried Bulleit Rye, can you imagine that? It’s straight rye, with a 95% rye mash bill (rings a bell), and comes with one of those unlikely familial stories our American friends love so much. It’s a Diageo brand. I have to say I really liked Bulleit’s bourbon (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: extremely close to High West Double Rye. Really very extremely pretty totally immensely close… Perhaps a notch fruitier? A little less spicy? Mouth: same comments, it’s very close. And very good. Once again, perhaps is it a little more rounded and a notch fruitier? And perhaps is the oak a tad more in the front? Perhaps not. Finish: ah yes it is, you’re feeling tannins that were more discreet in the High West. A tad grittier and more tannic. Drier aftertaste. Bang, one less point ;-). Comments: ha, families and brands! (like, that was some useful comments, S.) SGP:561 - 83 points.

James E. Pepper '1776 Straight Rye' (50%, OB, USA, +/-2014)

Good, family stories, old letters, old recipes found in an old drawer, yada yada yada. And rye whiskey apparently sourced from the very same factory as most of the others. After that, our friends shouldn’t be surprised if small ‘truly craft’ distillers in many countries are starting to make great rye that may start to defeat them when tasted blind. Excuse me? Nah, Scotch is different… Colour: gold. Nose: and once again we’re very close, with just more oomph, probably thanks to the higher strength. Perhaps a little more vanilla as well? Other than that, it’s all more or less the same juice on the nose. Which, in a sense, isn’t bad news, coz it’s very fine. Mouth: same comments. The higher strength may strengthen the estery side, bringing pineapple and pears to the table – unless this baby’s actually younger than the others? Not too sure… Finish: rather long, a little narrow, round and sweet. It’s as if the higher strength made it gentler and rounder, and less spicy/rye-ish. How funny (not really). Comments: ironclad very high quality. Just like all the others. SGP:651 – 84 points.

I agree, this is becoming boring. Let’s cross the ocean…

Millstone Rye 2007/2014 (43.3%, Zuidam, Holland, for Usquebaugh Society, virgin American oak, cask #538, 221 bottles)

A story of quality and word-of-mouth, rather than half-imaginary grandpas and dusty old recipes. And distilleries. To think that even The Whisky Exchange, up there in posh London, bought and bottled a cask of Millstone Rye! Colour: deep gold. Nose: ah, there’s something that wasn’t in the MGP of Indiana brews: bread. I mean, rye’s a cereal, isn’t it, and feeling its, well, its breadiness alone is a thrill. More globally, it’s rather less spicy/perfumy than the American(s), and quite fruitier and breadier. Wholegrain bread covered with pineapple and apricot jam, clean farmyard, perhaps a few drops of cranberry juice, and a fair amount of white chocolate. I know I use the word ‘lovely’ way too often, but this is lovely. Mouth: very funny! Sweet bread, gingerbread, honey, fudge, hazelnut liqueur, café latte, baklavas (orange blossom water, pastries). It’s a gentle, rounded rye, and yet it’s got depth and a lot of seductiveness. Very, very drinkable. Finish: good length. Smooth, now a tad spicier (cinnamon cake), bready and ‘croissanty’ (excuse my Frenchness). The bread and even the oak are back in the aftertaste. Comments: extremely lovely (!) I don’t know if this added depth comes from the fact that Zuidam use pot stills instead of gigantic columns. Maybe… In any case, this is proof that it would be a shame and a pity if the general public started thinking that in whisky, ‘craft is daft’ and ‘family is silly’. You just have to separate the wheat from the chaff! SGP:651 - 88 points.

You might also like to read this excellent and very edifying article about American indus… I mean craft whiskeys and ryes.