The Islay Odyssey 2015 sequel tastings Caol Ila and Bowmore

February 19, 2015

The Islay Odyssey 2015
Bringing rare whiskies back to their birthplace to open them.

Sequel tasting,
Bowmore and Caol Ila

Aka the lightly peated Islays, but we all know that many Bowmores and many Caol Ilas can be heavily peated. That’s why its so hard to put distilleries into clusters or categories.

Caol Ila 15, Jon and Dick

Jon’s Caol Ila 15 yo (43%, OB, golden jug, +/-1985) Some whiskies are leaving an everlasting impression. When we opened this baby I had thought I had last tried this famous jug just two years ago. And when I checked my notes I noticed that had actually happened… In 2006. Anyway, I’m always glad to revisit these bottlings, especially since this is pre-rebuilding Caol Ila, so from the ‘small’ distillery. Colour: gold. Nose: ‘old’ Caol Ila used to be more phenolic and tarry, and this is another fine example. Maybe were they cutting lower? New plastic pouch, leatherette, putty, ashes, then green apples, walnuts, seaweed, humus, a drop of plum spirit, old papers… It’s both subtle and big. Mouth: it’s the saltiness, the brine that strikes first, and that would come together with wee notes of tinned pineapples. After that it becomes very fino-ish, with these walnuts, sweet mustard, more walnuts, manzanilla, green coffee… The strength is perfect. Only problem, it goes down a little too well. Finish: long, rather ashy, a tad astringent in a good way (walnut skins) and with quite some salted liquorice in the background. Comments: as I was remembering it, that is to say big and charming. More so than the container ;-). No need to change my old score. SGP:467 - 92 points.

Caol Ila 12 yo 1979/1992 (45%, Bristol Brandy Company Ltd., American oak cask)

Geert’s Caol Ila 12 yo 1979/1992 (45%, Bristol Brandy Company Ltd., American oak cask)

The Bristol Brandy co. is more famous for their rums these days – although the company’s become Bristol Spirits, but I already tried a very fair Aultmore by them. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a narrower spirit than the old 15, with more burnt things, wood, grasses… It seems that the spirit also got fruitier, and that wouldn’t be just lemons or grapefruits. Raspberries? Other than that, we’re finding the usually sooty tones, some gravel, rocks, a little seawater, peated barley…

Mouth: it’s a little slimmer than the 15, but it’s got good punch, an inky style, notes of lemon liqueur, a feeling of eau-de-vie again (from the young age?) and some obvious coastal notes. Maybe a tad thin on the palate, but it’s good stuff nonetheless. Finish: medium length, with more fruits. Tinned ones, jellies… Limoncello in the aftertaste. Comments: the fruitiness is a little unusual, but again, it’s an excellent young post-rebuilding Caol Ila. SGP:646 - 86 points.

We’re having the Bowmores after the Caol Ila because they’re so much stronger.

Bowmore 2004/2015 'Hand-Filled' (57.5%, OB, sherry cask)

No antique this time, this is the current offering at the distillery. Colour: amber. Nose: a mineral sherriness. Struck matches (no eggs, no cabbage), some pencil shavings, bitter oranges, burning fir cones, raisins, a little soy sauce and sweet game (with cranberry jam), some humus for sure… This is very compact, and rather complex at the same time. Needs breathing, but in my experience, any sherried Bowmore needs breathing, especially old bottles. With water: when some sherried whisky noses like bourbon, you know the wood’s been very active. Mouth (neat): the wood might be a little heavy, with more pencil shavings, some ginger, plenty of cinnamon and cloves, as well as quite a lot of nutmeg. A feeling of new or rejuvenated wood seasoned with sherry. On the other hand, there are very pleasant fruits, such as blood oranges… And some peat and pepper. With water: rye? I’m not joking. Finish: long. Ginger, pepper, nutmeg and raspberry jam. Comments: ‘modern’ sherried whisky. Little peat. Very pleasant, but very ‘contemporary’. No I’m not that old. SGP:653 - 82 points.

Bowmore 20 yo 1976/1996 (53.6%, Signatory Vintage, cask #8547, 275 bottles)

Phil and Simon’s Bowmore 20 yo 1976/1996 (53.6%, Signatory Vintage, cask #8547, 275 bottles)

We’re quickly revisiting this baby that we last tried in 2007. Colour: deep gold. Nose: heavy fruits! Kumquats from Kumquats’ (yup), figs, papayas, then some slightly sour notes of… ‘clean’ gym socks, some wood extracts (around menthol and pinesap, as well as honeydew), and then rather sandalwood, cigars… It’s pretty unusual, and certainly not unpleasant.

With water: no! It doesn’t swim. 1970s Chinese grocery store, damp paper, linoleum and gym socks (nothing Chinese in gym socks of course). Mouth (neat): same trio, tropical fruit jams, mint and liquorice, and cedar/sandalwood. The peat’s very discreet, but the very kumquaty profile (ha ha) works very well. With water: old herbal liqueurs, tropical fruit juice from last night, Finish: good length. Peated papaya and mango juice. Comments: a funny baby, a bit ‘retro’ and slightly unlikely. There aren’t any unlikely ones around anymore, most sadly. Too much industrialisation? SGP:654 – 86 points (unchanged).