May 31, 2015

Sunday malternatives,
today four American rums

The American craft distillers (I mean, the ones who are genuine distillers) are in full swing these days, and do not only make whiskey, vodka or brandy, some also make rum, often out of locally grown sugarcane. But you see, some are real crazy people…

Old New Orleans ‘3’ (40%, OB, Louisiana, +/-2015)

A funny one that used to be advertised as a 3 years old on the label, and yet the website says that this “blend of aged rum spends up to three years in charred American oak barrels.” Oh well, a matter of definition, I guess. This is molasses rum, but not too sure about the stills they use; pot still plus column still, apparently. Colour: gold. Nose: fine, rather light, with bananas and a cane-y greasiness we’re always looking for. Also the usual liquorice and light brine, which would rather give this baby an ‘agricole’ feeling. All for the better. Mouth: we’re midway between a sweet Cuban style and some greasier, tarrier notes, a wee tad Jamaican. I find this style pleasant and very well balanced, with some character. More caramel and vanilla coming through after a few seconds, as well as a little marmalade. Finish: not too long but it’s got a ‘good’ taste of fine molasses. And, above all, no excessive sweetness. Comments: a fine crossbreed between English and French style rums, I’d say. A little more powa would have been welcome. SGP:462 - 78 points.

St. George 'California Agricole Rum' (43%, OB, California, Harvested 2014)

This is white. I wanted to try this baby because of the use of the word ‘agricole’. Hum-hum. Bah, the Californians have been using ‘Champagne’ for ages, after all. Colour: white. Nose: waah this is rough! Almost feinty, with yeast and vegetables, diesel oil, fresh paint, fermenting grass, charcoal and… burnt gherkins? Not sure this was ready, but it’s quite an experience. Mouth: extremely young, rough, ‘straight from the still’, with grassy, burnt, herbal and molassy notes. Burnt asparagus, perhaps, and draff – the stuff they use to feed lucky Highland cattle in Scotland. The good news is that more cane-y sweetness appears after a short while, with some lime, gherkins, and perhaps capers. Finish: quite long, green, briny. Comments: fun stuff – probably more showcase rum than something you’re supposed to sip in an old chesterfield armchair. Maybe is it a first attempt at making clairin? Some maturing time in ‘open’ glass or better yet, in stone jars may be needed. The packaging’s great. SGP:261 - 59 points.

Speaking of aging…

St. George 'California Reserve Agricole Rum' (40%, OB, California, +/-2015)

Apparently, this one has spent four years in French oak casks. Colour: pale gold. Nose: bingo! It hasn’t lost its funny unlikeliness, but time and oak have mellowed it down, making it rather rounder, and without any off notes this time. The gherkins aren’t burnt anymore, the diesel oil’s better, the paint is gone, and some artichokes, sugarcane, liquorice wood and hay have appeared in the combo. Great briny style. Mouth: indeed, this is fun! We’re somewhere between some real agricole and mezcal, with plenty of smoky grass, pickled ginger, maybe even small sweet onions, humus, seawater and… a rooty concoction. Almost forgot to mention grapefruits. Goody good. Finish: long, salty, zesty, slightly Laphroaiggy. Yes. Touches of pineapples in the aftertaste. Comments: a massive difference. Another world, a great spirit. This, at 50%, pah pah pah pah pah… SGP:452 - 85 points.

A last American rum if you don’t mind. Please fasten your seatbelts…

Lost Spirits 'Navy Style Rum' (68%, OB, California, +/-2015)

By the crazy people who make Leviathan whisky, kings of experimental aging and masters of time warp machines. Well, they had still thought this baby would need 4 years of maturing in oloroso-seasoned oak. Oh and this is pot still rum, made with molasses. Colour: red amber. Nose: it’s quite rounded and mellow! Some oak (pencil shavings), blackberries and cassis jelly, then rather black tea, Russian black tobacco, coffee beans, ripe bananas, blood oranges, a curious maltiness, and rather Pedro Ximenez rather than oloroso. No off notes that I can find. With water: gentler, with very lovely touches of balsamico, soy sauce, a touch of rubber and leather, tar, and… say umami? Mouth (neat): thick, a bit caramelly, certainly quite oaky and gingery, with growing liquorice. This is almost salmiakki! The style of their whiskeys is there again, between extremeness and… shall we say engaging delirium? Burns a bit, but that was to be expected at 68% vol. With water: plenty of caramel, fudge, café latte, vanilla… All that combining very well with the smoky and tarry style of this extreme rum. At times, you cannot not think of some great old heavy Demerara. Port Mourant? Finish: as long as an uncut Kurozawa movie (what the…?) Perhaps a tad too oaky and coffeeish at this point? The aftertaste is quite tarry/herbal. Comments: the wizards may have benchmarked some 1974 Port Mourant or something. I wouldn’t say they failed, even if this baby’s obviously simpler. Good, same score as the other great Californian. SGP:462 - 85 points.

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far

Sunday malternatives, today four American rums

Sunday malternatives,
today four American rums