June 7, 2015

Sunday malternatives,
today ‘French-Indian’ rums

All these rums do come from French islands or former French islands in the Indian ocean, that is to say La Réunion in the Indian ocean, formerly know as L’île Bourbon (the Bourbon island), and other islands not too far from Madagascar. Including Madagascar! Speaking of La Réunion, let’s start with…

Isautier 10 yo ‘rhum vieux’ (40%, OB, La Réunion, +/-2015)

This is proper rhum agricole, made out of vesou (cane juice) and not molasses. Other rhums by Isautier may be blends of agricole and ‘traditionnel’ (molasses based). Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s relatively light and rather better rounded that other agricoles, and there are very elegant whiffs of vanilla, fudge, butterscotch, ultra-ripe bananas, cassata ice cream and liquorice allsorts. A little vanilla-ed toffee as well. Pretty delicate and rather harmless. Mouth: indeed, it is rather lighter than ‘western’ agricoles, and rather more on oranges and tangerines, with a relatively thin body. The 40% vol. might be a little too low for this style. Tends to become a little dry (tea). I do also find touches of fennel. Finish: rather short, light, with a little sandalwood and a touch of lavender. Cinnamon from the oak. Comments: a rather complex one that would have benefitted from a little extra-punch in my opinion. SGP:451 - 74 points.

A strange idea, having a white one from Thailand…

Chalong Bay 2014 (40%, OB, Phuket, Thailand)

White agricole-like rhum distilled in Phuket by some passionate young French rum makers. Colour: white. Nose: pure grassy, phenolic, greatly ‘dirty’ rum that’s definitely got a Jamaican style. I’ve heard they use a secret dunder wherein they throw two or three inebriated European tourists per year, that’s why you may find tiny bits of sandals in some bottles. Haha. Seriously, it’s a great nose, between a Haitian clairin and a high-ester Jamaican. An excellent surprise. Mouth: top notch, ‘dundery’, grassy, fruity, salty… Balance is perfect and there aren’t any off notes, neither is there any burn or feinty side. Only the strength, once again, might be a little low. Finish: good length, though. A discreet meaty side, some salt, fermenting bananas or other tropical fruits, something olive-y and smoky… Comments: the style that I prefer. Very well done – to think that this was only harvested and distilled last year! SGP:362 - 83 points.

Mauritius Club 2014 (40%, OB, Mauritius, 2015)

There is some French heritage in Mauritius/Maurice. This new and probably young rum matured in South-African casks. Colour: full gold. Nose: there’s more maraschino and marzipan than in maraschino and marzipan. That means that must have been some kind of flavouring going on, but I have to say it worked. It’s just not ‘pure’ rum, but this nose is very pleasant. Remember Cherry Heering? Mouth: very sweet and sugary, not unlike those rum liqueurs named Don papa or A.H. Riise, but as I like maraschino, amaretto, marzipan and… Haribo, I won’t complain. I like Turkish delights too. So, I find this rather good, but I don’t think you could drink it without ice. Finish: good length, sweet, cherried (not sherried, haha)… The Kriek Lambic of rum? Comments: obviously not my thing, no doubt it’s very well made. Some people will fall in love with it. SGP:730 - 70 points.

Gold of Mauritius (40%, OB, Mauritius, +/-2015)

Made by the same company as Mauritius Gold, this rum is aged in Port casks from South-Africa. So rather Port-like. Colour: amber. Nose: starts with some caramel and toasted bread, goes on with vanilla and pipe tobacco plus a slightly earthy tea, and keeps developing on roasted cashews – which is unusual indeed. Rather toasty, this seems to work. Mouth: really sweet, liqueury, and nutty. Some Bailey’s made with candy sugar, peanut butter, walnut cake, and triple-sec… Way too sweet for me, but I enjoy the nutty backbone. Finish: medium, sweet, always very nutty. Praline, drops of banana liqueur. I do not seem to find much Port. Comments: same kind of very sweet style as the Mauritius Club, but with nuts instead of cherries. I don’t feel like I should score it differently. Good stuff, just not for me. SGP:740 - 70 points.

Dzama 1998/2008 (45%, OB, Madagascar)

This one comes in an ach, err, lovely bottle hand-covered with banana leaves. Colour: full gold. Nose: I had already tried some Dzamas, and I find this one bigger, earthier, with more complexity and less of that sweetish flowery fruitiness. Having said that, it is rather floral. I also like all these tiny ‘tertiary’ aromas, old coins, beeswax, a little shoe polish… So it’s not just ‘sweet’. Mouth: okay, it is sweet, which won’t make it a proper malternative in my book, but it all works fine, from ripe bananas (and the liqueur made thereof), to kiwi jam, vanilla cream, sweet pink pepper, and even a faint grapy side. Like moscatel, perhaps. Finish: good length, even a little hot, and well on some ‘eastern’ sweet and spicy notes. Vanilla, pepper, cloves, sweet chilli. Comments: quality rum for sure – and Madagascar needs to be supported! SGP:651 - 78 points.

Session over. It bothers me a bit that a white Thai (ha, ha) won it. Again, from a malt drinker’s POV. No, not at all!

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far

Sunday malternatives, today ‘French-Indian’ rums

Sunday malternatives,
today ‘French-Indian’ rums