May 12, 2015

Summer’s almost here,
time for Auchentoshan

The light triple-distilled Lowlander comes in various guises these days. It also seems that the indies have more of it as well.

Auchentoshan 'Springwood' (40%, OB, +/-2015)

One of these slightly depressing bottles that are to be found in travel retail these days. Funny names, no age… And more shelf space for the brand. Colour: gold. Nose: modern sweetness, a bit of citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla… This isn’t bad, at all, just not extremely inspiring. Mouth: rather creamy, peppery, with then citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla, citrus, oranges, vanilla… The oak starts to feel after a few seconds, though, with more green pepper. Finish: short and a tad sugary. Do you really need a list of the flavours? Oak in the aftertaste. Comments: honest, loyal, drinkable. Both light and peppery. Not much else to add. SGP:441 - 76 points.

Auchentoshan 'Heartwood' (43%, OB, +/-2015)

This is the Springwood’s Oloroso-ed counterpart. Colour: deep gold. Nose: pleasant butterscotch, café latte, caramel, raisins and crystallised oranges. It’s round and mellow, quite simple, but balanced and rather engaging. More character than in the Springwood. Mouth: once again there’s quite some pepper, then tobacco, raisins, tea and maple syrup. I also enjoy these touches of tiger balm, eucalyptus, light camphor… It’s got a sappy side that works well with the raisins. Some kind of very mild fortified retsina. Finish: quite short, with bonbons, liquorice allsorts and orange drops. The freshness is pleasant. Comments: indeed, this baby will please any traveller. I find it really well made. SGP:541 - 80 points.

Auchentoshan 14 yo 'Cooper's Reserve' (46%, OB, +/-2015)

Another one for travel retail, but this time we’re granted with an age statement and a higher strength. Just like the Heartwood, it’s a combination of bourbon and oloroso wood. Colour: full gold. Nose: drier than the Heartwood, grassier, with a wee touch of rubber at first, then rather oranges, teas, raisins again, praline, maybe roasted peanuts, some kind of wood smoke (would that be pine wood?), a plate of marzipan-filled dates… All that works well, I even find a little sesame oil after a few minutes. Love sesame oil! Mouth: the Heartwood with more oomph, more bitter oranges, and probably more oak. That would translate into some cinnamon cake covered with grated ginger and orange marmalade. Not to forget pepper and nutmeg. Finish: rather long, unexpectedly dry and nutty. Walnut wine, artichoke liqueur and more cinnamon. Comments: I think this one really works. You can feel that some newish (or rejuvenated) oak’s been involved, but yeah, that worked. SGP:541 - 83 points.

We’re making good progress, aren’t we? But the indies are having the floor now…

Auchentoshan 16 yo 1997/2014 (48%, Langside, Distiller's Art, refill hogshead, 360 bottles)

What’s sometimes hard to fathom is that the indies issue more ‘natural’ versions of the distilleries, while the owners focus more and more on wood. Let’s see if that’s the case again here… Colour: white wine (so, indeed…) Nose: pure crystalline Auchentoshanness. Sure this is a slightly ethanoly spirit, and indeed there are many marshmallows and jell-Os, not to forget the many tinned fruits (peaches, pineapples, pears), but there’s also quite some grass and even lilies of the valley, which makes it delicately perfumy. Mouth: clean and fruity. Not profound, not complex, and maybe even a little too simple, but this is a perfect picture of a summery malt whisky. Peach syrup, candied pineapple, plain sugar (say agave sugar)… Simple stuff, good stuff! Finish: medium, fruity, maybe a tad alcoholic. A wee feeling of varnish. Comments: all right, the Cooper’s version was rather more complex, so a notch ‘better’, but this is very fine. I’m sure it would take ice like a champ. SGP:541 - 82 points.

Auchentoshan 17 yo 1997/2014 (48.4%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, cask #10555, 350 bottles)

Most probably from the same batch of casks as that from the brother. Let’s see if we can find any differences… Colour: white wine, but slightly darker. Say chardonnay vs. sauvignon. Nose: quite hard to distinguish. Maybe does this one have a little more vanilla indeed? And more broken branches and fruit peelings? Apples? Other than that, we’re in the same country. Oh and a little more Demerara sugar. Mouth: starts very similar, but unfolds with more limoncello and other tarty liqueurs. Kiwi liqueur? Rhubarb juice? The oak’s more noticeable as well, with more broken branches, cut roots… But it remains a rather thin-bodied whisky. Nice freshness, though. Finish: medium, rather citrusy, candied, a bit sugary, with a grassiness that nicely balances all that. Candied fruits, cassata… Comments: Fred wins by a very small margin. A very easy, sweet, summery and fruity malt. SGP:541 - 83 points.

A last, older one…

Auchentoshan 22 yo 1991/2014 (56.3%, Blackadder, hogshead, cask #2781, 178 bottles)

I’ve decided to try to find a funny quote from Black Adder every time I’m trying a whisky by Blackadder. And today that’ll be this: "I mean, money isn't everything. Think of clouds and daisies, and the lovely smiles on little babies' faces." Maybe we should tell this to (some parts of) the whisky industry. But back to this Auchentoshan… Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah, there’s more burnt oak, coffee, cake, herbs… Few fruits, this one seems to be rather un-Auchentoshan. Water may help: oh this is funny, it got more medicinal than some 1970 Laphroaig blended with mercurochrome! What happened? The problem may be that there’s also some new plastic and leatherette. Hum hum… Mouth (neat): plain and pure zesty and youthful Auchentoshan. A bag of marshmallows dipped into a blend of litchi syrup and limejuice. Very zesty! No more plastic. With water: orgiastic zesty fruits, with something slightly chemical in the back. Washing powder? I’m kidding… almost. Finish: long, sharpy-zesty, very lemony. Comments: some sides reminded me of old refill Rosebank. Very funny stuff, this. SGP:651 - 85 points.

Check the index of all Auchentoshan I've tasted so far

Summer’s almost here, time for Auchentoshan

Summer’s almost here,
time for Auchentoshan