October 11, 2015

Six white caney malternatives

You know, there are possible malternatives, so spirits that could make for nice malternatives, but that will actually disappoint many a whisky lover (such as the sweetish rums, or some flabby boisé-ed cognacs) and there are obvious malternatives. Such as the best artisan mezcals or, yes, the clairins from Haiti. Not many people know them yet, but it’s going to come, believe me. I don’t know of many spirits that are this characterful, especially when white. But before the three clairins we’ll try today, let’s have a few other white sugarcane-based spirits to prepare our palate…

Chalong Bay (40%, OB, Thailand, +/-2015)

We already tried a 2014, and in truth, I’m not sure this isn’t the same batch. But I liked it so much, and found it so surprisingly flavourful, that we just won’t care. This is distilled sugarcane juice from Phuket, all white. For some odd reason, it’s not called ‘rum’ or ‘rhum’. Colour: white. Nose: roasted hazelnuts, crushed olives, carbon paper, ash smoke, diesel oil, new tyres, unlit cigars, grass. Mouth: very good. Briny dirty earthy olive-y arrival, then, wait, spaghetti bolognaise? I’m not making this up. Plus bananas and a little salt. A shame that they don’t bottle this at a higher strength, it’s pretty perfect. Finish: medium, salty, tarry. Overripe bananas, salted. Comments: as I remembered it. We want a CS version. Okay, 50% vol. would do. SGP:362 - 84 points.

Takamaka Bay ‘St. André Rhum Vesou’ (40%, OB, Seychelles, +/-2015)

Found this white baby at master of Malts and just couldn't resist. I had found Takamaka’s aged 8 yo very quaffable (WF 79). Oh and ‘vesou’ is the French name for sugarcane juice, the agricole rhums are made from vesou. But is this true white rhum agricole? Let’s see… Colour: white but a little less white that the Chalong. Say super-pale yellow. Nose: suffers a lot after the Chalong, this is much lighter, much less phenolic. It’s like nosing Auchentoshan after having nosed Octomore. Oh let’s jump to the palate… Mouth: rather better and fuller. It’s good white agricole, with some lemon grass, a touch of earth, some oranges, and quite some sugarcane. It’s just a little shy – but then again, the Chalong is a killer despite the 40% vol. A little sugar. Finish: a little short and a tad sugary. Otherwise, fine. Comments: it’s fine, it’s fine. SGP:440 - 75 points.

Let’s drop the weaker ones, and let’s call in the cavalry!

Jamaica Pot Still (57%, Rum Nation, 2014 release)

A white Worthy Park. No need to add anything. Oh, yes, 37€. Colour: white. Nose: buy a pack of Marlboro. Open, crush. Put into a jar. Pour graphite oil. Add seawater and engine oil. Two capers, three olives. Add a little ash. Geranium petals. Some dust from under your offspring’s bed. Boil, stir, filter, nose. Water’s dispensable. Mouth: huge and superb. Colossal, and yet zesty and sharp, smoky, salty, sugarcany, medicinal. Arranged tincture of iodine, olive oil, black salt (for the record, always a hit at home), citron juice, fennel, lime… Ever wanted to try a super-strong mojito? Finish: endless, salty, lemony, tarry… Comments: I find this extreme white thing totally glorious. Please excuse me, I have to order some bottle(s)… Oh and dear Chalong people, try this, and see what CS can do to great white rum. SGP:373 - 90 points.

And now, the clairins!

Clairin Vaval (51.1%, OB, Haiti, +/-2015)

Velier and CEO Luca Gargano are doing a lot for promoting Haitian clairin. These people know what’s good and authentic. Now you may be wondering, what is clairin? Simply white rum agricole. They harvest organic blue cane (I believe), press a.s.a.p., ferment, distil, bottle. Vaval comes from the Distillerie Arawaks in Cavaillon. No, not Cavaillon in southern France! Colour: white. Nose: bursts with overripe tropical fruits, petrol, sugar cane, tar, rush-hour rainwater from Mexico City (or yeah, Bangkok), and brine. Impeccably phenolic. Mouth: perfect yet again. Fermenting pineapples and litchis, green olives, capers, ‘good’ dirt, and more petrol (I imagine). Perhaps a little ham as well, it’s got a gamey side. Finish: long, meaty, tarry, even Talisker-smoky. Lovely very lemony aftertaste. Comments: a fat spirit that gets lemony and precise, that’s an ideal development. I want to try it straight from the still. So very surprising, so very good… SGP:362 - 89 points.

UPDATE: Vaval are actually using sugarcane of the 'Madame Meuze' variety (thanks Didier).

Clairin Sajous 2015 (51%, OB, Haiti)

From another plantation. Mind you, these very lovely and very smart people from Saint Michel de L’Attalaye grow their own sugarcane, in this case Cristalline. I’ve had dinner with them, you couldn’t meet sweeter persons. Oh and they use wild yeast, no ‘corporate bags’. Colour: white. Nose: Vaval was gentle when compared to this. This has more dirt, more unlikely matters, more diesel oil, and, above all, more old papers, forgotten library, also chives, sage, marrow bouillon. In fact, it’s rather more mineral (does that have anything to do with marrow bouillon, S.?) It’s rather more floral as well (same comments, S.) Mouth: oh how greatly great! Dirty lemons, phenolic grapefruits, tarry tangerines, melissa oil… What a voyage, even if it’s still a little rougher than the Vaval. Finish: endless, exuberant, lemony, always with this dirty side that just makes it even more interesting. Comments: which is my favourite? Hard to say, both are fantastic. Perhaps the Vaval, because of the lemon, but that was a close call. SGP:352 - 88 points.

All things must pass, said dear George H. Let’s have a last one…

Clairin Casimir (53.4%, OB, Haiti, +/-2015)

Sweet sweet people, from Barradères. Colour: white. Nose: the most ruthless one, but that may be the higher strength. Also the most herbal and salty, you’re almost nosing Maggi or lovage leaves. And litres of brine and olive oil. This baby might need a little water, to tell you the truth. So, turning words into deeds… With water: gravel, clay, wet cement, seawater (you know, when you’ve got an isolated puddle that evaporates under the sun before high tide… oh whatever.) Mouth (neat): a monster of a spirit. Pressed grapefruit skin, tapenade, anchovies, citrons, wulong, smoked kippers… Haiti and Islay, same battle! With water: gentler, perfectly citrusy and salty. The most perfect margarita, perhaps, it’s true that it’s got a wee tequila side. Finish: long, salty, lemony, perfect. Comments: it seems that the Parisian chatting classes have started to embrace clairin, but it’s still time to gather a few bottles for a fair(ish) price. Hint, hint… SGP:462 - 89 points.

Those were what I call genuine malternatives! Oak? Nah, oak’s the equivalent of auto-tune in rock and roll. There, happy Sunday!