August 12, 2015

Singletons and individualities of Dufftown

There are quite a few different NAS Singletons of Dufftown around. We’ve already tried a little bunch, such as ‘Artisan’, ‘Spey Cascade’, or ‘Sunray’. There are more of them, but first, an aperitif!...

Dufftown-Glenlivet 8 yo (43%, OB, +/-1980)

A famous old bottle by Bell's. We've already tried various other versions, at 40% vol., or at 70°proof, with mixed results. This one should be a little punchier... Colour: gold. Nose: some OBE rising to our nostrils, with some iron and some paraffin, some coal burning in the distance, and plenty of notes of burnt bread, wood, coffee, malt, and herbs. All that makes it very dry and even a little challenging, but the palate could go in a completely different direction. Mouth: not quite! It’s another old pretty cognacqy malt whisky, with a feeling of boisé, bitter caramel, more burnt bread and waxes that ‘are not Clynelishy waxes’. Rather paraffin again, plasticine and all that. There are also fruits, but this very dry and bitterish profile would never let them come out. A shame, because the background of the background seems to be most pleasant. Finish: long, but bitter and very tea-ish. Tannins. Comments: perhaps a taste of light? Something else that went wrong? This baby’s quite bitter and acrid, but some parts remained acceptable. SGP:362 - 69 points.

Singleton of Dufftown 'Tailfire' (40%, OB, +/-2014)

This one has got a higher proportion of ‘European oak casks’. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s got a wee steely, chalky side that reminds me of the old 8, and perhaps a little wet cardboard, but other than that, I find this combination of citrons and oranges plus honeyed malt rather pleasant for 28€ a bottle (in France). Mouth: it’s not big, of course, but I do enjoy this balanced mix of marmalade, pencil shavings (not too much), green tea and praline. You do feel a certain oakiness, but at least it’s not totally dominated by vanilla and coconut. Although there is a little coconut. Finish: a little short, with some cinnamon and honey. Oak in the aftertaste. Comments: a modern drop, but I think I like it a little better than Sunray and Spey Cascade. Goes down well, which is already a lot. SGP:451 - 79 points.

Singleton of Dufftown 'Unité' (40%, OB, travel retail, +/2015)

Just found this on the World of Whiskies website (so from a large travel retail operation): ‘appears to be yet another of those products which 1. allows the distillery to get rid of average but excess stock and 2. Do so through airport outlets.’ An axe to grind, perhaps ;-). Colour: full gold. Nose: it seems to be older, maltier, more cake-y, and fruitier as well. I have to say I’m not against this at all. Whiffs of newly sawn oak, cinnamon cake, vanilla, walnut cake… It’s rather ‘full’. Mouth: indeed, a better body and more depth. Cakes and jams, soft spices, toasted oak, figs, raisins, a little caramel… Only the low strength makes you want ‘a little more’. Finish: a little short, but clean, malty, honeyed and cake-y. Comments: good introductory malt whisky. No travellers will be harmed by this baby! Now, why the French name ‘Unité’?... SGP:551 - 81 points.

Singleton of Dufftown 'Trinité' (40%, OB, travel retail, +/2015)

Comes with a story about marrying casks or something. It’s all about wood anyway these days ;-). What’s funny is that its named in French since this is for the European market, while the equivalent Singleton of Glendullan for the USA seems to be called ‘Trinity’, unless I’m mistaken. Ha, geopolitics and whisky! Colour: full gold. Nose: more roasted and toasted than Unité, with a little more coffee, malty things (Ovaltine), black tea Russian-style, and something rather bourbony. Rather nice nose. Mouth: I find this pretty good. Mars bars, chocolate, corn syrup, malt, nut pie, marmalade, gingerbread… The ABV’s the same, and yet this one feels oilier and just bigger. Finish: medium, malty, toasty. Toasted oak, bread and pastries. Comments: I wouldn’t say this Trinity is totally holy, but we’re clearly above average in my book. We’re making good progress, aren’t we. SGP:551 - 83 points.

Good, I think we’ve had enough NAS, this wouldn’t be Whiskyfun without a good indie to bring these proceedings to a close… But let’s find one that’s not too strong!

Dufftown 14 yo 1999/2014 (46%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #808)

Colour: white wine. Nose: this one’s more au naturel, as expected. It’s not a very expressive juice, and I wouldn’t say it’s really fresher than the Singletons, but it’s got this mineral, almost steely ‘white’ fruitiness that can work so well. Gooseberries, green apples, then a little graphite oil (perhaps) and a touch of porridge and sour dough. Yeah, it’s au naturel. Mouth: fun! A cocktail made out of citron liqueur, ginger liqueur, Schweppes, cold green tea and grapefruit juice. Nah, please don’t ask me about the proportions. Also rhubarb, more chalk, plain grass, and a drop of grassy mezcal. This baby sure hasn’t got the Singletons’ ‘commercialness’. Finish: quite long, very grassy, a little austere. Green bananas. Comments: the flesh is weak, so even if I find this one lovingly austere and, yeah, natural, I also enjoyed the Trinité’s easiness. So, same score. SGP:461 - 83 points.

(and thank you Jonny!)

Check the index of all Dufftown I've tasted so far