May 11, 2015

Sherry and Glenmorangie and bonus

Today we won’t taste ‘pure’ Glenmorangie, rather three sherry-finished ones (Fino, Oloroso, Manzanilla) plus one that was made from an old brewer’s barley. And we’ll start this with an older expression from twenty years ago… You may call it ‘seminal’.

Glenmorangie 13 yo 'Fino Sherry Wood Finish' (43%, OB, +/-1996)

One of the ancestors of the current ‘finishes’ by Glenmorangie. Remember Fino’s the driest sherry, together with Manzanilla, which is a Fino as well. Colour: gold. Fino’s usually very pale. Nose: there is a fino-ish character indeed, with this slightly mineral, faintly mustardy, and certainly very dry profile. There are the expected fresh walnuts, then rather a slightly butyric, barleyish, almost farmy side. Whiffs of leather. Mouth: the wine’s very obvious, and this time it’s the citrusy, lemony, slightly mustardy again character that comes out. I’d swear I find a little salt as well, plus some pepper and ginger. The small problem may be that Fino’s a wine that’s great rather cold, and that the flavours may become a tad, say vulgar when boosted with alcohol and sipped at 20°C. Finish: rather long, quite peppery. Green oak, leaves, bitter oranges… Comments: probably still a little experimental back then. There might be a little too much wine, but some sides are appealing. Especially when you’re just back from Andalusia. SGP:471 - 80 points.

Glenmorangie 12 yo 'Lasanta' (43%, OB, sherry cask finish, +/-2014)

I believe it was finished in Oloroso, so oxydised sherry rather than sherry matured under flor. Glad to see an age statement, earlier bottlings had none if I’m not mistaken. Colour: gold. Nose: struck matches, gun, walnuts, limestone, tobacco, walnuts… So there is a sulphury side to this, but it tends to go away, as often. Then black tea and a wee slice of ham. Iberico, no need to say. Mouth: it’s got this bitterish side, the walnuts, black tobacco, a coastal saltiness, herbal teas… Then rather marmalade, bitter oranges… The sweetness comes out, but it remains quite dry globally. Finish: good length. More cinnamon, ginger, speculoos, and this kind of sulphury minerality in the aftertaste, as well as tea leaves. Comments: very fine, but you have to enjoy gunflints. Not a peaceful Glenmorangie (yeah right). SGP:461 - 78 points.

Glenmorangie 'The Taghta' (46%, OB, Manzanilla finish, 2014)

I’m glad to taste this baby while just back from Sanlùcar de Barrameda, where they make Manzanilla. It’s to be noted that Manzanilla’s aged in soleras, and in very old American oak casks that are never shipped out. So a ‘Manzanilla cask’ as used by the Scots is not a ‘genuine’ bodega butt that was used within a solera, rather a bespoke cask. I should add that I love bone dry Manzanilla, especially the old-style pasadas. Colour: gold. Nose: more discreet than the two previous ones, probably more elegant, with some fresh butter, much less dry minerality/mustard/walnuts, and rather more golden raisins, dried apricots, and then more and more honey. Granted, that’s very un-Manzanilla, but I find this nose pretty subtle. A little more walnuts after ten minutes, though. Mouth: cleaner than Lasanta – by far, quite zesty, with lemongrass, blond tobacco, surely quite some pepper, lemon marmalade and then more honey again. Good body. Finish: good length. More orange and lemon marmalade, a touch of white pepper, a drop of walnut wine, perhaps, and a little ginger. Comments: I liked the zestiness a lot. In a way, it does remind me of some excellent Manzanilla, such as La Gitana’s Pastrana, which is a pasada (and which I heartily recommend!) SGP:551 - 83 points.

Glenmorangie 'Tusail' (46%, OB, +/-2015)

Made out of Maris Otter barley and matured in bourbon wood. For how long? We won't know... It’s a bit paradoxical that special bottlings bear no age statements, while regular, cheaper ones do, isn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: Glenmorangie! Very lovely flowers, fresh herbs, fresh nuts, then quinces and apricots, a touch of vanilla, overripe apples, hazelnuts, fresh bark, barley… I find this rather perfect, and extremely elegant. My favourite so far and by far. And yes I love sherry! Mouth: yes, perfect. Fresh oranges, citrons, lemongrass, honeydew, dried pears, melons, quince jelly and kiwis. The quince jelly’s particularly obvious, and guess what, they make some great one in Andalusia. That’s funny. Finish: good length, clean, zesty, totally au naturel. Comments: this one’s as fresh as morning dew on primroses. Or something like that. But what the Maris Otter barley did to it, I couldn’t tell you. SGP:551 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Glenmorangie I've tasted so far