October 20, 2015

Quite a few undisclosed Irish

Many bottlers have these ‘undisclosed’ Irishes these days, and what’s a bit sad is that they’re all great. Almost. But why would that be sad, you may wonder? That’s because even greatness can be a tad boring to a taster, it can sometimes become a bit like listening to all the Brandenburgische Konzerte in a row. But hey, I hate to be a stickler, let’s have a few of these new glorious Irish… And hope we’ll find a dud! (tsk tsk)..

Ireland 16 yo 1999/2015 (53.5%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams)

According to the drawing on the label, this should be some kind of torture… You see, there’s hope… Colour: straw. Nose: well, it’s not quite a fruit bomb this time, although mangos and green bananas are discernible in the background. What it’s got is quite a lot of bubblegum, and then these sweetened herbal teas that, in my book, are very Irish. Wild roses, hawthorn… With water: visiting Haribo’s main factory. Mouth (neat): simple and excellent. Marshmallows and liquorice allsorts, mango chutney, plus a little green tea to balance the sweetness. It’s most probably not from Midleton, but it does remind me of Green Spot at cask strength (does that exist?) With water: more fruits, if that was possible. Gummy bears galore, plus green tea again. Finish: medium. Same flavours. Comments: sure it’s not Old Clynelish, but I like it quite a lot. Easy stuff. SGP:741 - 85 points.

Irish Single Malt 13 yo 2001/2015 (59.5%, Chapter 7, sherry butt, cask #10836, 293 bottles)

Colour: dark gold. Nose: sherry works on these spirits, and do add what some call dimension. In this case it’s chocolate and roasted chestnuts and hazelnuts, as well as a feeling of café latte not-from-Starbucks. There’s also some cured ham, as often, plus something pretty unusual in sherried un-peaters: smoked fish. Plus the usual Seville oranges and all the cocoa, as well as whiffs of nail polish remover but that’s probably the very high strength. With water: touches of gunpowder and struck matches, not a problem at all. Mouth (neat): did the sherry offset the Irishness? Not quite, this remained fruity and fresh, and even a wee tad girly, in a good way. More Haribo stuff, and marshmallows, with more blackberry and cassis-flavoured ones than usual, and then some sweet and spicy wood, around cinnamon and cedar wood. With water: works. Oranges, a little rosemary and other Provence herbs, and a little juniper and caraway. Finish: quite long, excellent, the sherry really added something…. Comments: even if it may have made this baby lose a bit of freshness. SGP:651 – 87 points.

And now, a brother…

Irish Single Malt 14 yo 2000/2015 (56.7%, Chapter 7, bourbon hogshead, cask #10928, 230 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: an epitomical banany Irish malt. I’m not sure I need say more. Perhaps this: sweet barley, bananas, earl grey, bananas, ripe apples, bananas, marshmallows, bananas… I find it very Tyrconnelly this time. With water: it is what I call an irrefutable nose. You almost hate it that you love it. Haribo stuff. I hope Haribo are going to send me a cheque one day. Mouth (neat): sweet and fruity Irish goodness, irrefutable, simple, fruity, sweet… Bananas, pineapples… And our friends the marshmallows. With water: some tea adds balance and structure, just like in The Nectar’s 1999. Finish: medium, super-sweet, very easy. Comments: do never leave such a bottle unattended at home. Even Beckham would quaff it. SGP:731 - 86 points.

Irish Malt 24 yo 1991/2015 (50.2%, Sansibar, bourbon, 232 bottles)

The label’s so funny! It’s a if Yamazaki were putting leprechauns or Celtic harps onto their labels… Colour: straw. Nose: wait wait wait, this is different. It’s got ‘green’ smoke, lapsang souchong, garden bonfire, tobacco, cigars, green banana skin… And even summer truffle (tuber aestivum) and dried mint leaves. Right, mint tea. Quite different, very nice. No water need at 50.2%, pfff… Mouth: I find this totally perfect, really. That’s because I adore menthol, truffles, and all things mildly smoky. Lapsang again, cigar ashes, salty/smoked fish… What it may lack is a little more complexity, but we’re nitpicking. Finish: quite long, with a perfectly un-Scottish kind of green and salty smoke. A touch of gewürztraminer in the aftertaste – and bananas of course. Really. Comments: we’re bordering perfection. SGP:643 - 89 points.

Ireland 27 yo 1988/2015 (49.5%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams)

More medieval torture (on the label). Colour: gold. Nose: wait. Sunflower oil, apple compote, ripe bananas, butter cream, tinned pineapple, custard… We’re close to the best of what’s made at some northern place that starts with a B. Nope, certainly not Bruichladdich. Bowmore? Come on… Shall I quote marshmallows and Haribo again? Mouth: it is just perfect. No faults, only Irish goodness, sweet and fruity, not dull, not too sweet, light yet full, floral and fruity, with a perfect herbal backbone. Chamomile, wormwood. That’s very, super, hyper cool. Finish: sweet wines are kicking in. I’m thinking the best sweet chenins from Loire (Chaume and thereabouts), or perhaps these rare Riesling Vendanges Tardives from dear Elsass. Hoppla! Comments: there, we found our 90. Very well done, Mario, but the label… … … SGP:651 - 90 points.

In theory, we should stop here. But this is Whiskyfun… Let’s have some easy younger ones…

Knappogue Castle 16 yo 1995/2012 'Twin Wood' (40%, OB, Irish, +/-2015)

Knappogue Castle has always been ‘seen high’ by whisky freaks. For some reason, I had missed this older one. As for what twin wood means, I guess that’s got something to do with Harley-Davidson. Or Ducati. Or Guzzi. Or Norton… (that’ll do, S.) … Colour: gold. Nose: it’s got this metallic/dusty side that screams ‘pure pot still’ and that I did not find in any of the others. Metal polish, herbal tea, overripe apples. The low strength is problematic, though, and believe me I made a looong break after the fab Nectar 27. But what’s in this weakish nose is great. Mouth: oh very good indeed. Even the 40% vol. work. Can you smoke chocolate? Marmalade, mixed marmalade with mint and cloves, ripe gooseberries, pomegranates… All very good. A shame that they bottled it at 40% vol. Murder! Finish: it’s almost long, at this strength. Imagine what it could have been at 45 or 50% vol. Great whiskey (see, I did not miss the ‘e’.) Comments: a very frustrating bottle. Super-great whiskey for sure, but it could have been hyper-great whiskey! Oh, the frustration… SGP:651 - 86 points.

Clontarf '1014' (40%, OB, Irish Single Malt, bourbon wood, +/-2015)

I’m sure there are stories that’ll explain ‘why 1014?’, but we haven’t got much time, have we. Clontarf is a funny brand, it was largely available in France a few years back. They had some smart – yet ugly – 3-bottle-packs that used to fit together. Yup, some liqueur makers have them as well. Oh, and NAS. Remember, No Acceptable Stories. Colour: straw. Nose: light, undemanding, marshmallowy, easy, not repulsive. But very light. Mouth: in fact, I find this good. Light, yet oily, grassy fruity… It’s very boring whisky, but it’s flawless. I even enjoy these touches of sappy herbs, with ‘ideas’ of fir liqueur. Now, It’s light, but less so than most Scottish blends. In fact I find it pretty good (would you please make up your mind, S.?) Finish: not that short, with a pleasant oiliness. Comments: I had feared this would be a disaster, and it was not. B***y prejudices. Lacks body, though. SGP:551 - 79 points.

Good, a last one for the road. Make that an indie again, please…

A Drop of the Irish (59.9%, Blackadder, single malt, 316 bottles, 2015)

A Drop of the Irish (59.9%, Blackadder, single malt, 316 bottles, 2015) Ah yes, a quote from Black Adder… say this one: ‘Yes, all right. Make a sentence out of the following words: 'Face - sodding - your - shut.' I agree, it’s all a matter of context. Colour: white wine. Nose: the sharpest, the stealiest, the most muesli-esque of them all. It’s one for the hipflask, it seems. It’s also got an Ardbegness, but it’s true that Ireland and Ardbeg aren’t very far from each other. Remember the old joke from the pier? I you don’t see Ireland, its raining. If you see it, it’s that it’s going to rain. With water: cut apples and peat. That’s all, folks. Mouth (neat): simple, zesty, clean, earthy, peaty, sauvignony, sharp, chiselled, perfect. A blady Irish for a change. With water: who the hell re-stencilled a cask of Ardbeg? Right, re-barcoded? Finish: long and more acrid. Becomes a notch difficult, but remains great. Comments: close to the early peated Cooleys by Cadenhead. I haven’t gotten anything against that. It’s just a little rough, but that’s almost an asset in this context… Yeah, all a matter of context. SGP:367 - 86 points.

Check the index of all Irish I've tasted so far