October 28, 2015

New Port Ellen Special Release
and Friends

Diageo’s new Special Releases are in, and as usual, I’ve been hesitating a lot. Start with the Port Ellen or start with the Brora? I seem to remember it was the Brora last year, so, it’s going to be the Port Ellen in 2015, which is a 1983, the distillery’s last year of activity. We’ll add a worthy sparring partner, but first, a lighter aperitif from the very same year.

Port Ellen 27 yo 1983/2010 (46%, Mo Or Collection, bourbon hogshead, cask #627, 164 bottles)

This little baby was distilled on March 16, 1983, near the end. In my experience, 1983 was a superb vintage, both at Port Ellen and Brora. Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, a chalky one! Indeed it’s got this very mineral profile, with wet limestone, even new concrete, then superb notes of fresh almonds and bandages, before a little eucalyptus starts to come through, together with a little parsley. I find this superb, with a ‘wineness’ that I cherish. Not meaning that it’s winey, not a all, it’s just got a character that hints at the best chenins from Loire, or at some sauvignon blanc from Sancerre. My thing. Mouth: okay, only 46% vol., but boy this roars! Peppery ala Talisker, with a feeling of crunching smoked and salted almonds, then a massive pile of ashes and rather less medicinal stuff than in the nose. But some salt there is, as well as notes of some kind of peppered paraffin or something. A little lemon as well, but rather less than usual. Finish: it’s the iodine that lingers, while the pepper got a little gentler. Funny hints of sweet melons in the retro-olfaction. Comments: a very perfect aperitif, you just have to like them peppery. SGP:457 - 91 points.

Port Ellen 30 yo 1983 (50%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, for LMDW, refill hogshead, 74 bottles, 2015)

A mini-outturn this time, not too sure if that was all what was remaining in the hogshead or if it’s a shared cask. Colour: straw. Nose: we’re very close, obviously, but this one’s got a little less plasticine and minerals, rather less medicinal notes as well, and more coastal ones, including sea breeze, drying kelp, a plate of oysters, and all that. Would rather go on with lapsang souchong and PE’s trademark tarry side, as well as a little more citrus than in the Mo Or. More menthol as well. So far, so very nice. With a drop of water: perfection, balance, coastal elegance, and just ‘ideas’ of new tyres in an old garage. Mouth (neat): perfect combo, crystallised lemon + salted fish + cigar ashes. Some pepper again, then oils, rocket salad, some kind of bitter aperitif (well, bitters), and a drop of limoncello. All that keeps it rather fresh, and fruitier than others. No complaining. With water: all the same, just even louder, with a distinct thickness, as if someone had added glycerine. Not a problem, not a problem… Finish: quite long, bright, very coastal. Fresh almonds are back, together with touches of candied grapefruit. Perhaps drops of green wulong tea. And something medicinal, some kind of phenolic, smoky cough syrup… Comments: it’s such a thrill to be able to taste some new Port Ellen. Each and every time I fear it’s the last session we’ll ever do (not talking about older bottlings, we’ve got quite a stash that we haven’t tasted yet). SGP:367 - 93 points.

Port Ellen 32 yo 1983/2015 '15th Release' (53.9%, OB, 2964 bottles)

Last year’s 14th Release, a 1978, was a little more, say fragile than other batches, with less immediate PE-ness (read tarry smoke) and more grassy elements (WF 91). This might be different… Colour: pale gold. Nose: back to the style of the Mo Or, with much chalk, stones, clay… The tar is back as well (old tarry ropes), and comes with some damp raw wool and hessian, funny hints of uncooked French beans (when our mother made us shell them), seaweed, perhaps whiffs of a wet dog coming back from the beach (I’m sorry, dogs), and lastly, pink grapefruits and cough syrup. Balance is utterly perfect. With water: drinking lemon juice while smoking a cigar and crunching fresh almonds, while walking on Port Ellen’s beach, while someone’s burning eucalyptus leaves somewhere in the neighbourhood (but why would they do that?) Mouth (neat): unusual! It’s fizzy and prickly like some Schweppes-Lemon, with touches of bitter oranges and, of course, lemons. A feeling of plasticine diluted in turpentine, then perhaps cinnamon mints. Rather big, as most 1983s are in my book. With water: notes of lemon tarte, with some meringue and some cinnamon. Add chlorophyll gum and perhaps one whelk. Finish: rather long but not massive, rather on plasticine, mint, pinesap, and lemon skin. Comments: I find it quite different from the previous releases, still excellent, and a little surprising at times. Especially the arrival on the palate. Another great PE for sure. I know, as a blogger, I should also write about the price. I won’t. SGP:367 - 92 points.

Port Ellen's still house

New Port Ellen Special Release and Friends

New Port Ellen Special Release
and Friends