May 7, 2015

More bread! I mean, more grain.

I know, we’ve already had grain just the other day, but there’s this new one by the excellent Compass Box, and I just couldn’t let it ‘sink’ to the bottom of WF’s sample library. But first, a little aperitif as usual…

Cameronbridge 19 yo 1995/2014 (43%, Signatory Vintage, Single Grain Collection)

This should be light as a feather! Colour: white wine. Nose: did you ever nose white calvados? It is a bit like this, fresh, with notes of apples and pears, and in this case something lightly bready. Or rather brioche-y. Really very easy, clean, certainly a bit ‘silent’, but not unpleasant. The pears take over after a few minutes. Mouth: just as easy, sweet, with more pears and apples, plus something slightly bitter in the background. Orange skin. There’s also a little grass and a wee leafiness, maybe from the oak. Finish: medium, grassier. Notes of green walnuts – always this bitter side. Comments: a rather raw and simple spirit, certainly not bad, but I’d rather use it in cocktails, in fact. Or on ice. The question might be, ‘is this any better than Haig Club?’ (also from Cameronbridge). My answer’s ‘yes and no’. SGP:440 - 72 points.

Hedonism ‘Quindecimus’ (46%, Compass Box, blended grain, 5,689 bottles, 2015)

The Scots are using much Roman these days, only Russell Crowe’s missing ;-). Now maybe is that better than ‘Norse’ names straight from an IKEA catalogue… What’s more, Compass Box are 15 this year indeed, congrats! And yes, we still love Fornasetti. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s got more oak than the Cameronbridge, more vanilla, a mild coconutty side, more butterscotch, more toasted brioche, hints of café latte, and then touches of melon and peach. It’s got something of some mild wheated bourbons, as far as I can tell. Mouth: same feeling. White chocolate, vanilla, earl grey tea, grated coconut, then a touch of cologne (nice in this context) and green oranges. Finish: rather long, with a little green oak. And waffles, perhaps. Comments: sure I rather prefer Compass Box’s Clynelish-and/or-Laphroaig-fuelled offerings, but as far as lighter grain whiskies are concerned, I think this one really works. Now Hedonism Maximus (ave!) was in a different league IMHO. SGP:540 - 80 points.

Girvan ‘Patent Still – Proof Strength’ (57.1%, OB, single grain, +/-2014)

£75 for some no age statement grain whisky. Riiiiiight. Colour: straw. Nose: tutti frutti eau-de-vie running from a still, plus touches of leaves, barley water (yes) and vanilla/coconut (the infernal combo). With water: more grass, but it remains pretty silent. Mouth (neat): sweet alcohol, lime, grass. Some vanilla. With water: more vanilla, apple juice, green tea. I don’t find this too bad, I just find it totally uninteresting. Well, not £75-interesting for sure. Finish: medium, on green apples. Comments: I’m curious about what London’s Islington Court would have said about this baby, back in 1905. Is this really whisky? Or simply cereal spirit? To tell you the truth, I find this bottling rather infuriating. The packing is nice, though. SGP:440 - 60 points.

All right, let’s try to find a special grain…

Chita 4 yo 2011/2014 (58.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Japanese single grain, #G13.1, virgin oak puncheon, 622 bottles)

This is grain whisky by Suntory. I think it’s the first Chita I’ve ever tried. Colour: deep gold. Nose: the oak’s doing the job here, but it is some magnificent oak! Orange cake, dried roses, mellow ginger cake, a touch of old sherry (rather amontillado), some incense, sandalwood, then a wee feeling of pina colada, then plenty of white chocolate… And even a wee feeling of rye, such as what we can find in some ‘good’ new craft Americans. Granted, there are pencil shavings as well, but all that’s under control. With water: oak, at some carpenter’s, new planks, new furniture… And yet, that music works. Mouth (neat): we’re sitting between some much older Willett and some Coffey Malt by another excellent Japanese house. Bursting ginger and cinnamon, then bitter oranges, tobacco, nutmeg, caraway, orange squash, pencil shavings again, rye… Lots happening in this one, and that’s an euphemism. With water: banana cream, cinnamon cake, millionaire shortbread… Isn’t this baby a little… regressive? Finish: quite long and very oaky. Nicely oaky! Comments: some four years old grain whisky, that’s something I shouldn’t like. And yet… Is it serious, doctor? SGP:550 - 87 points.

(and merci beaucoup, Carsten)

Check the index of all grain whiskies I've tasted so far