August 27, 2015

MoMa malts

So we have this solitary old Mosstowie that’s been sitting alone in WF’s ‘Mosstowie’ pigeonhole (implacable logic) for months and months, waiting for a compadre… That never came in. Let’s not wait any longer, we’ll easily find another sparring partner…

Mosstowie 23 yo 1976/2000 (46%, Signatory Vintage for La Maison du Whisky, hogshead, cask #12889, 390 bottles)

This baby from Miltonduff was bottled at cask strength, not at some ‘reduced’ 46% vol. It’s from LMDW’s older own range. Colour: straw. Nose: it would be far-fetched to claim that you do feel the Lomond stills, but indeed this is rather different, and certainly ‘old skool’, with some shoe polish and other polishes, some soot, some graphite, pencil lead, then rather mildly smoky green tea and green pears. I have to say I find this very pleasant, and oh-so different from all these contemporary vanilla bombs out there. Although there is a little vanilla as well, as well as rising whiffs of peaches and melons. Mouth: starts a little sour (green oak) and rather peppery (same), and certainly not in a sexy way. Bites you a bit, takes your tongue hostage (tannins), with plenty of strong teas and dry spices (cinnamon, nutmeg…) The background is rather green and grassy, and totally out of fashion. Solid body. Finish: long, biting, acrid, and green. Not quite sexy yet. The aftertaste displays more fruits, but they’re whispering low. Comments: typical ‘variant whisky’, meant to bring unusualness and difference to your stash of bottles. Loved the nose, the palate was more difficult. SGP:371 - 80 points.

Good, we were in Elgin with the Mosstowie/Miltonduff, so maybe a Mannochmore? I agree we should have chosen a Glencraig instead – wouldn’t have been the first time we’re doing a Mosstowie vs. Glencraig session - but you see, there’s no Glencraig left in the house either. Sob…

Mannochmore 32 yo 1982/2014 (54.7%, Cadenhead, Port Cask, 186 bottles)

So Mannochmore, of Loch Dhu fame. It’s been re-racked in a Port cask in the year 2005, so this is clearly double maturation, not a simple finishing. Colour: deep gold, not rose-y at all. Nose: it can happen, with red wine casks, that instead of red berries, you rather get stems, buds and leaves, in a cassissy way. That’s what happens here, and beyond that, there are also notes of Jamaican rum of some sorts, with olive tapenade, diesel oil, rubber bands, and, well, dundery smells. So a funny nose, rather unorthodox, with growing whiffs of barnyard that make it even wilder. With water: rounder, with notes of sugarcane syrup. Mouth (neat): thick mouth feel, and a very zesty, tart, squashy, angular arrival. You’re almost drinking concentrated lemon juice, without one single touch of sugar. Pungent and, as they say, rather uncompromising! With water: some bitter grass comes out, together with green pepper. More cabernet than touriga nacional, if I may. Finish: long, rather better balanced, that is to say rounder and sweeter. But it remains very zesty and blade-y. Fresh walnuts and tangerines plus blood oranges in the aftertaste, all for the better. Could be the Port. Comments: I found it very unusual. Some people with love it, some others might find it a little intimidating. SGP:461 - 85 points.

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback